Posted December 13, 2015 - 12:45 PM
- chieffan said thank you
Posted December 13, 2015 - 01:32 PM
can you find a pulley (or stack) with the right diameter for the crank and the same outside diameter for the belt(s)?
not sure what that setup looks like.
Do you know a buddy in a machine shop? I have a few ideas here/// either;
1. have the pulley bored to crank diameter and a new keyway cut in,
(works best with steel or cast iron pulley setup, not so much with stamped/fabricated pulley)
or 2. pull the flywheel from the engine, pull the side cover (or sump if vertical shaft) yank the crank and have your buddy cut the PTO end of it down to where your original pulley(s) will fit. if too long it probably wont hurt a thing, better than too short but that too can be cut down if absolutely have to, if the extra length interferes with something.... when machining down to the skinnier diameter, just don't machine too far "up" the crank. Leave enough shoulder so that the original oil seal still rides on the crank, all engines of that series would have had the same seal, the diameter change for what ever machine they built "that" engine for, always starts beyond the seal surface... only parts that you would have to replace to do this would be sump (or side cover) gasket and that oil seal, probably not a bad idea anyways as your replacement engine is used too, right?
3. See if you can find someone parting an 8HP like yours that has a crank with the correct PTO end configuration (diameter, keyway, length etc)
I have done any/all of the above when doing an engine transplant over the years/
this was the machine that you pulled a 6hp from and have an 8hp to go back in, right?
Edited by dodge trucker, December 13, 2015 - 01:33 PM.
- chieffan and Orange appeal have said thanks
Posted December 13, 2015 - 03:39 PM
Got to watch those weld a hubs. They don't always come out centered.
- Bmerf and dodge trucker have said thanks
Posted December 13, 2015 - 06:22 PM