Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Received a Free Tiller


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 358 Thanks
  • 258 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted December 07, 2015 - 10:06 PM

Over the Thanksgiving weekend I got an Earthquake Model 3365. A neighbor of my mom had it out on the side of street with a sign saying free to a good home. The woman that helps my mom ask if I could use it so it was at my moms waiting for me. The other information on it was that the gears are stripped. When I got back home with it I took the lower gear box a part to find out what happened. The brass gear is stripped & the key for the cross shaft is missing.

 

Gear 1.jpg    Gear 2.jpg

 

The parts in the gear box.

 

Tiller 1.jpg

 

The gear with the bearing mount on the shaft between the 2 slots.

 

Tiller 2.jpg

 

The clips holds this together & they seem to be very easy to bend.

 

Tiller 3.jpg    Tiller 4.jpg

 

The other shaft seem not to be damaged & one half of the gear box.

 

Tiller 5.jpg    Tiller 6.jpg

 

The gear, bearings, & clips are all inside the gear box. When I was taking this a part I noticed that the ears of one clip was showing out side of the gear box. My thought on how this failed is that the clips came out of the slots on the shaft allowing the bearings to separate from the gear. This gap allowed the key to come out of the gear as it was being ground away it jammed the gear to cause the damage to the gear. I found a place to purchase the gear for $55 & the key is $3. The clips are also offered for $3 each but do not know if they are needed. Now trying to decide what is the best way to keep the clips in the slots. One thought would be a wire in the 2 holes to lock the clip in or a spot weld to hold the clip. I am not sure if there is clearance for a safety wire. Any ideas on this would be helpful. After the holidays I will get the parts ordered then try putting this back together. I had to do some cleaning on the carb to get the motor to run then ran it long enough for an oil change so it is ready.

 

Charlie


  • Gtractor, Traill95, boyscout862 and 1 other said thanks

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,290 Thanks
  • 28,623 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted December 07, 2015 - 11:46 PM

You might consider grinding the ears off. If you are ever into it again, you'll fight the rings more, but the ears won't get in trouble.

#3 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,454 Thanks
  • 6,623 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted December 08, 2015 - 06:45 AM

Those snap rings look that they are spread pretty wide , I wonder if they are made of some cheap steel and by  putting in good quality ones would be better ?  Will the snap ring groves clean up nice and square ?


  • MH81 and KennyP have said thanks

#4 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,455 Thanks
  • 39,686 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 08, 2015 - 06:59 AM

Those snap rings look that they are spread pretty wide , I wonder if they are made of some cheap steel and by  putting in good quality ones would be better ?  Will the snap ring groves clean up nice and square ?

That's what I was thinking. Ace has some decent ones!


  • Alc said thank you

#5 chieffan ONLINE  

chieffan
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62695
  • 6,151 Thanks
  • 4,498 posts
  • Location: SW Iowa

Posted December 08, 2015 - 08:15 AM

Dito on new snap rings and the grove has to be nice and square for them to seat into.  If the groove is rounded they will jump back out again.



#6 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 358 Thanks
  • 258 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted December 08, 2015 - 09:02 PM

Thank you every one for the replies I will take these snap rings to Ace to get the right size. This will also allow me to check if they are stronger then the originals. The groves look to be straight with no damage to the edges. The place that has the gear & key also has the snap rings but the fear of getting the same quality as I have now for $3 each is not a good deal. Earthquake equipment advertise as being made in the USA but I think like many products that advertise the same as this do all of its parts also come from here.

 

Charlie


  • KennyP said thank you

#7 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 358 Thanks
  • 258 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted February 20, 2016 - 11:08 AM

I have purchase & received the new gear. With the price of the gear & shipping that was $68, I purchased the snap rings, key, & some other things locally which was a lot cheaper then ordering them, so now I have about $72 on this tiller. One of the modification I am going to make is install a grease zerk so that grease could be pumped in there. I know it will make it last longer if there is more grease in it then I found when I took it apart. I have a question can anyone see a problem being caused if that whole cavity with the gears being filled with grease? I am also thinking of adding a vent hole up higher along where the vertical shaft is then tapping it for a screw to close this hole. This way no pressure can build up from pumping grease in there. More pictures will be provided as I proceed to put this back together.

 

Charlie



#8 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 358 Thanks
  • 258 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted February 21, 2016 - 08:29 PM

The tiller is all back together.

 

Tiller 18.jpg

 

I did some modifications as I put it back together. The first was to cure what I think caused problem with the gear.

 

Tiller 8.jpg   Tiller 9.jpg   Tiller 10.jpg

 

Tiller 11.jpg   Tiller 12.jpg

 

I used a couple of files to remove the broken metal that caused the problem with the snap rings.

 

Tiller 15.jpg

 

I added a grease zerk to provide an easier way to keep grease on the gears. Also seen in this picture is that the housing now clears the snap rings but still holds the bearing.

 

Tiller 13.jpg   Tiller 14.jpg Tiller 16.jpg

 

I used rubber washers to help keep dirt out of the snap rings & bearings.

 

Tiller 20.jpg

 

This picture shows it in the transport mode.

 

Tiller 21.jpg

 

This is in the working mode.

My $72 tiller

 

Charlie

Attached Thumbnails

  • Tiller 17.jpg
  • Tiller 19.jpg


#9 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted February 21, 2016 - 08:43 PM

  To answer your question about the grease level it is a general rule that the grease level should be no higher than the bottom of the seal lip on the lowest shaft. This of course is not the case with gearboxes that have shafts exiting the bottom of the box or outboard motors. 

 When in doubt follow the manufacturers instructions.

  There is a lot of side pressure on the shafts of a worm gear system like yours. If that tiller gets to hopping those forces are multiplied. Rocks and roots are things that should be avoided with that aluminum gearbox. Avoid those and it should last you a long time. 

Did you use extreme pressure EP rated grease?

 

Nice looking and handy little tiller.


  • MH81 and FixItCharlie have said thanks




Top