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#1 SpeedySqueegee OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 04:04 PM

Hello to everyone. My name is Shane, I live in Oklahoma. I have really gotten into these GT in the last few months. It all started with the need to pull dirt and rocks up a hill and missing out on the bargain of the century. The bargain that i missed out on was a John Deer 318 That ran and mowed for $350.00 at an estate sale. So anyway threw some trading i have ended up with a craftsman GT6000 i believe was built in 1994. I also dug a craftsman GTV18 out of my father in laws old barn. I'm waiting for a carb rebuild kit to come in for the GTV and some front tires and i suspect that it will run. I have had it kick over with starter fluid. So i do have a question about the GT6000. I am afraid that the transaxle is Shot. It is not moving the axle right. Its up on jack stands, wheels off and the axle turns slowly and i can stop it from moving when i grab the hubs. It is making a lot of noise, and all the fan blades have been broke off. I have changed the fluid and filter. I have been working for a week to make sure it is completely full by letting it run in forward and revers and then checking fluid levle and adding if needed. So the question is, should i give it up until a i find a donor tractor. Or is there something else i should try. Also does the transaxle have to be the very same or will another work.

-The tractor modle #917 257730 Serial # 071394C    006812

-The transaxle is a Hydro-gear two numbers on it are 140343 and 4157C2025 It seems to look like the 210-3010L that they have a manuel for  on the Hydro-Gear webside

   Last Question... Should i consider trying to repair this one since there is a good manual for it on the Hydro-gear webside.

image3.jpeg image2.jpeg


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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 04:20 PM

:welcometogttalk:
Still at work and will study your issues better later this evening, but you might want to look thru this thread some.
http://gardentractor...4885#entry14885
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#3 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 05:15 PM

Welcome to GTT. Checkout our Manuals Section for information that you need. Those transaxles can be a pain. The fan blades being broken off could have caused the oil to overheat. Look for a donor. The transmissions section of our Manuals Section will help you identify the trany. Good Luck, Rick


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#4 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 05:28 PM

:welcometogttalk:


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#5 oldedeeres ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 05:32 PM

Welcome aboard, lots of good answers will come up from the guys here. Imo, if they can't help, help isn't to be found,   :rocker2:  :worshippy1:


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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 05:53 PM

Hello to everyone. My name is Shane, I live in Oklahoma. I have really gotten into these GT in the last few months. It all started with the need to pull dirt and rocks up a hill and missing out on the bargain of the century. The bargain that i missed out on was a John Deer 318 That ran and mowed for $350.00 at an estate sale. So anyway threw some trading i have ended up with a craftsman GT6000 i believe was built in 1994. I also dug a craftsman GTV18 out of my father in laws old barn. I'm waiting for a carb rebuild kit to come in for the GTV and some front tires and i suspect that it will run. I have had it kick over with starter fluid. So i do have a question about the GT6000. I am afraid that the transaxle is Shot. It is not moving the axle right. Its up on jack stands, wheels off and the axle turns slowly and i can stop it from moving when i grab the hubs. It is making a lot of noise, and all the fan blades have been broke off. I have changed the fluid and filter. I have been working for a week to make sure it is completely full by letting it run in forward and revers and then checking fluid levle and adding if needed. So the question is, should i give it up until a i find a donor tractor. Or is there something else i should try. Also does the transaxle have to be the very same or will another work.

-The tractor modle #917 257730 Serial # 071394C    006812

-The transaxle is a Hydro-gear two numbers on it are 140343 and 4157C2025 It seems to look like the 210-3010L that they have a manuel for  on the Hydro-Gear webside

   Last Question... Should i consider trying to repair this one since there is a good manual for it on the Hydro-gear webside.

attachicon.gifimage3.jpegattachicon.gifimage2.jpeg

:wave: Welcome to the forum! Where in OK are you?

That old GTV will out work that newer one 10 to 1. I have 2 GTV16's and they will do the job! If you want a mower, then the GT600 would be good for that.


Edited by KennyP, December 03, 2015 - 06:36 PM.

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#7 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 06:15 PM

Fan blades broke?  Is the shaft they are on worn and wobbly? U-joint out of that shaft and making noises?  I would check linkages first and make sure all are travelling as far as they should to get fully in drive each way.  I'm not familiar with what axle this is, but also might check for a valve, or pin to pull at rear or somewhere on the tractor that releases the drive to push it?? Sometimes they get pulled/pushed or work out and then no drive. An owner's manual should have the info on that if there is one. How are wheels held on? If just slip on axle and get pinned or has key, might check they are not sheared. Axle might still roll then, but wheel stays stopped when in drive. Keep in mind these are lighter use tractors, as said, better for mowing and cart pulling and such. The OLDER sears Suburbans and the SS16's and similar are much tougher tractors if you want that brand. I think Wheelhorse and Cub Cadet are some better, easier to use tractors for a first time owner. Get biggest horsepower you can afford, a good Kohler engine is a plus also over any other brand.


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#8 SpeedySqueegee OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 08:23 PM

Thank you men for the warm welcome and interest to help. I live in Bartlesville. About fourtie miles north of Tulsa. I will be able to get back to my shop tomarow and check these suggestions. I figured that the Older GTV Would out work the newer one but I sure do like the large frame of the 6000. I found a transaxle on Craigslist today. It is a mannual shift with a high low that I can get with wheels and tires for $40 the man said it came off a GT6000 that was gray and had a square hood Now the transaxle that is on my tractor has no shifter but the Frame does have a hole in the right side where a hi/low lever would come out. So mabe I will have luck with this approach. Thanks again guys for the info and I look forward to sharing in this new hobby.
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#9 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 10:16 PM

:welcometogttalk:  And good luck. Hope the transaxle works out for you.


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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 10:58 PM

40 for a good transaxle isn't a bad deal.
Before I went that route tho, I would exhaust my repair options.

#11 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 11:36 PM

Hello there and welcome  :wave:



#12 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 02:14 AM

Try to get as much of the things that are different for the swap if thats the way you go (pedal's, pullies, belt guides,linkage, old belt ect.) its the little things that will get you, a doner body is best way to go for that reason and you get to see where everything go's,if the ad on cl is not to far you might be able to get the body or parts with the trans axle

#13 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 04:28 AM

:welcometogttalk:



#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 05:39 AM

Bartlesville is just up the road from me! I found a Manual for it! It's here. That is a hydrostatic, are you sure the tranny is full of fluid?



#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 08:02 AM

I did a little thinking on your problem.
First, I want to say that I've been impressed with the responsiveness and longevity of my tranny. It's a real workhorse.
Going with a non-OEM belt will change speed, but not torque. If you go A size belt, it will be slow, B size tends to jump pulley and get wedged in the gap between the pulley and tranny. I went with slower. I'm not in a hurry.
These aren't your problem, just letting you know.

The filter you put on, is it OEM? If not... VERY good possibility that's a problem. Maybe not all of it, but incorrect filter design here can actually cause damage, at least incorrect operation.
It must be one designed for suction. Regular filters will screw on, but they are designed for pressure and can collapse internally, causing restriction and particulates.

What kind of noises? Have you verified the pulley on the input isn't slipping? I've seen one welded on ( not the path I would or did) and mine has been modified to take a std hub.

Did you read thru the thread I linked to in my earlier post? It may give you some ideas.




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