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Snow Thrower Adjusting Crank Location


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#16 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 07:48 PM

I know that engine is not original as I put it in there.  Original was not in it when purchased.  I have one of those brackets and checked it out and your right Brian, the muffler would still be in the way.  I might look into turn the muffler up some to clear but with the angle it comes out from under the hood it would really stick out to the side.  Might get it the way of the lift handle too.  Will have to do some trial and error adjusting and moving things around to come up with something.  I like the idea of the window motor to turn the chute but to get a matching gear on the end of the chute shaft ? ?  Hand cut one maybe.  Would need to be fairly large to have the power to turn it.  To small and it would try to turn to fast and loose all the power.


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#17 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2015 - 09:25 PM

Go over to the MTF forum,scroll down though some post,check out the set up Steveo did
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#18 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 04:03 AM

Go over to the MTF forum,scroll down though some post,check out the set up Steveo did

I agree, Steevo is usually the man at fabbing up stuff. I love his work, and follow his threads often. Check it out, I just went through his power chute thread. It is a nice setup!


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#19 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 05:35 AM

A smaller gear will make the shute turn slower, I used to have a Bolens blower on the front of my LGT. The wide engine bay made it quite tricky to get the shute handle to work. I ended up scrapping that unit as it was pretty well used up long before I got it. I installed a Fab-Co 2 stage unit from Craftsman and have not looked back.
The window motor out of ,say, an old Chevy truck or older gm car would work awsome, you can weld the little crank gear from your crank right on top of the one already there. Hardest part is getting the window regulator out of the door in the salvage yard LOL.
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#20 Jazz ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 12:18 PM

I would add some u-joints and a small steering bearing support..I have had to snake steering columns from firewall to rack...over or under exhausts etc....You could mock up a shoot control rod using dowels attached to one another with tape.



#21 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 04:53 PM

I used a window motor on one of my blowers that I used to have,it was a snapper.I used a 12 point socket onto the window motor and a 1/2 drive u-joint to connect to the stub shaft on the blowers rotation gear. The blower that I use now is a Ariens blower and I use a small winch for the chute rotation and a electric window motor for the chute deflector, Here's some pics of how I did it.You should beable to get a pretty good idea of how to make your chute turn by electric.

Attached Thumbnails

  • snapper snow blower 3 014 (Small).jpg
  • snapper snow blower 3 015 (Small).jpg
  • snapper snow blower 3 016 (Small).jpg
  • snapper snow blower 3 017 (Small).jpg
  • Digital camera pictures 201 (Small).jpg

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#22 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 08:13 PM

A smaller gear will make the shute turn slower, I used to have a Bolens blower on the front of my LGT. The wide engine bay made it quite tricky to get the shute handle to work. I ended up scrapping that unit as it was pretty well used up long before I got it. I installed a Fab-Co 2 stage unit from Craftsman and have not looked back.
The window motor out of ,say, an old Chevy truck or older gm car would work awsome, you can weld the little crank gear from your crank right on top of the one already there. Hardest part is getting the window regulator out of the door in the salvage yard LOL.

A smaller gear on the chute would make it turn faster, not slower.  The gear on these chutes is completely enclosed so would have to work on the drive shaft part from what I could see.  looked at several different options this morning and nothing was workable.    Going to take look on that other site and see what that looks like.  Might just do away with the muffler and run a straight pip down and out.  Can remove the hearing aids and use plugs when I run it so shouldn't be to bad. ?



#23 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2015 - 08:41 PM

If I remember right,I read some where its not a good idea to these small engines without a muffler
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#24 warrior120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 07:21 AM

I'm not sure if this would work, just throwing ideas out couldn't you Fab a new rod that bent out around the side of the tractor?
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#25 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 08:30 AM

I know as engines are designed to have a certain amount of back pressure created by the muffler.  Straight pipe would be a last resort for sure.

 

Warrior120 - not sure that would work very good as the rod has to rotate a few turns to turn the chute.  Chute would only have to turn about 190° - side to side movement.



#26 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 10:48 AM

That muffler is not configured the same as the hushtone muffler that Bolens offered. That Bolens muffler was mounted quite a bit higher relative to the tractor. Your other option would be to use a straighter exhaust pipe and a pepper pot muffler which I think was the base option for the OH140 Tecumseh.
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#27 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 12:23 PM

A smaller gear on the rod, not the shute, must be something different than what I recall? I thought they all had a ring with holeson the base of the shute with a spocket like gear on rthe rod\ crank?
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#28 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 12:58 PM

That muffler is not configured the same as the hushtone muffler that Bolens offered. That Bolens muffler was mounted quite a bit higher relative to the tractor. Your other option would be to use a straighter exhaust pipe and a pepper pot muffler which I think was the base option for the OH140 Tecumseh.

 

 

A smaller gear on the rod, not the shute, must be something different than what I recall? I thought they all had a ring with holeson the base of the shute with a spocket like gear on rthe rod\ crank?

I have no idea of the origin of the muffler.  I is a Jerry rigged set up that was on the engine when I got the tractor.  Originally was on an H16 when I got it.  I have a couple other mufflers around and might try one of them to see if that will give me some clearance.

 

You could very well be right.  Never been in one.  Just going by what I could see when lubing it up to keep it from freezing up.  Sound logical for sure.  That would make it a lot simpler.



#29 warrior120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2015 - 03:46 PM

Yeah I guess that t wouldn't work well

#30 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2015 - 12:35 PM

After some moving and messing around with different suggestions, it ended up being rather simple.  Had a long 1/4" eye bolt that work out good.  Crank and rod are not in the ideal position as I have to have my foot on the outside edge of the foot rest to clear the rod.  Only have to move my leg when I turn the chute.  Enough play in my home made U-joint that the handle can be out of the way without moving the chute.  Had to remove one piece of the muffler pipe to raise it a bit.  Front of the rod does rub slightly on the muffler but not enough to bother.  I can raise the thrower about 4-5" now before the handle hits the eye bolt.  Will see how it work out first time I need it.  Might do more permanent work on it then but for now - time will tell.

 

Crank-01.JPG     Crank-02.JPG     Crank-03.JPG

 

Thanks for all the help.  Lot of different ideas got tossed about and that what it is all about.


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