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Sears SS15


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#46 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2015 - 07:23 PM

This one is wired a little different for the lights then you describe , it all looks stock and matches the wiring diagram that I have for my model number except there is no 4th wire , the new regulator has a terminal marked "L" and from that terminal the wire goes to one side of the amp meter where another wire branches off to the light switch -------- I think what I sure do is screw a lead to the underside terminal before I tighten up the regulator mounting bolts so i can get to it easy later ------ any ideas on the battery group that is suppose to be in there never had one to start with ????

i know how the 72s are wired i got 2 72s (suburban 12 and ss15). match the letters from old regulater to new one then disconnect wire for lights and run it to extra terminal. old regulater should have letters on terminals might have to wire brush them to find out for sure if not i can tell you but have to look at a couple tractors first.



#47 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 17, 2015 - 07:27 PM

another thing is check this wiring diagram in here http://gardentractor...793-sears-ss14/ this is a diagram for a 71 ss14 with a cast iron 14hp. it takes the 4 terminal regulater and this is what i used the regulator on i linked you. but orange wire for lights goes to L terminal


Edited by craftsmanmowerfreak, December 17, 2015 - 07:28 PM.


#48 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 05:51 AM

Thanks for the 14 manual , it does show the 4th terminal underneath the regulator , the wiring between the two models  is different ------what would you do with this , add the extra wire ,  redo the wiring to match the 14 , leave the 4th wire off or bring the reg back and get a 3 terminal 

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#49 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 06:14 AM

Is that common to use a separate terminal for the lights ?  



#50 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 06:57 AM

The guy at the starter shop told me the 'L" terminal is for lights , then when he pulled out  the new 4 wire reg. that he gave me   , it doesn't have a "L" it has a "B" so he says hook the lights to the "B" and when I noticed it had another terminal underneath and asked him on that he said hook that to the armature "A" , but if you did that you would have 3 wires on the "A" terminal ------ he messed up and gave me the wrong regulator and I am messing up trying to make this one work 


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#51 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 08:38 AM

Thanks for the 14 manual , it does show the 4th terminal underneath the regulator , the wiring between the two models  is different ------what would you do with this , add the extra wire ,  redo the wiring to match the 14 , leave the 4th wire off or bring the reg back and get a 3 terminal 

the wire underneath is g terminal wire the regulater like the ss14 manual leave rest of wiring alone. the 71s dont have a solenoid.where has 72s do. when i redo 71 and earlier models i use both diagrams combining them to make the older ones have the solenoid.


Edited by craftsmanmowerfreak, December 18, 2015 - 08:42 AM.


#52 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 09:07 AM

The guy at the starter shop told me the 'L" terminal is for lights , then when he pulled out  the new 4 wire reg. that he gave me   , it doesn't have a "L" it has a "B" so he says hook the lights to the "B" and when I noticed it had another terminal underneath and asked him on that he said hook that to the armature "A" , but if you did that you would have 3 wires on the "A" terminal ------ he messed up and gave me the wrong regulator and I am messing up trying to make this one work 

list the terminals on the new one because it should be plug n play basically between the 2 regulators. brown wire goes to terminal underneath to bottom terminal .light green goes to F terminal. red wire goes to b. whats the extra terminal letter you got it has to be L.


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#53 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 06:27 PM

moved all the wires to match the 14 hp 4 wire regulator diagram , surprised that  every wire was long enough and had the right eyelet on it , so it was easier than I thought it was going to be , just a matter of moving them around , got a battery on charge but foresee a new battery tomorrow right after I try it  , changed the solenoid , all I need is either a new end or a battery cable from solenoid to the battery --------------- I was going to get the 4  wire  swopped out to a 3 wire by  the starter guy but wouldn't have it till Monday ----------  on the way home I was calling auto parts and no one had one in stock , stopped at a private owned rural NAPA by me and they had a 3 wire on the shelf  for $108.00 , I seen them last night on e-bay for $25 ( I am sure it was Chinese )  -----hope to try it before the weekend is over 


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#54 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 08:08 PM

yup i have the chinese one whichh is a cub lo boy regulator lol but works same



#55 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 03:27 PM

I got a rude awaking , I might be a heavy equipment mechanic for 40 years this year coming but I am not a small vintage tractor mechanic , these tractor are hard to work on , once the starter is in you can't get to anything , it is like a jigsaw puzzle but if you have o put the right piece at the right time or it don't fit , so I put in a hot battery and put enough back together to try and start it , no start , found out the ignition switch has been changed and there isn't even the capability to go to a spring loaded start position and the  safety switches are jumped which was part of the original wiring , which I already figured that one out , so basically the ignition switch is nothing more than a kill switch and I need the right ignition switch , one that will ground in off  or maybe a toggle and a push button , or maybe 2 toggles , one for power and one to kill with ??? 



#56 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 03:36 PM

I got a rude awaking , I might be a heavy equipment mechanic for 40 years this year coming but I am not a small vintage tractor mechanic , these tractor are hard to work on , once the starter is in you can't get to anything , it is like a jigsaw puzzle but if you have o put the right piece at the right time or it don't fit , so I put in a hot battery and put enough back together to try and start it , no start , found out the ignition switch has been changed and there isn't even the capability to go to a spring loaded start position and the  safety switches are jumped which was part of the original wiring , which I already figured that one out , so basically the ignition switch is nothing more than a kill switch and I need the right ignition switch , one that will ground in off  or maybe a toggle and a push button , or maybe 2 toggles , one for power and one to kill with ??? 

go with this switch here  ok here it goes on explaining read carefully. b is battery wire running from larger post of solenoid (on battery side of solenoid) to switch. m is magneto aka kill wire. g is ground just run a wire to a bolt any bolt to ground it out L is load or charging wire. one the runs from amp meter to switch  but i cant remember if 72s do this or not may have to run a new wire. s is wire that runs from switch to smal post of solenoid. if you have any questions please ask me i used a bunch of different switches in my wiring i know how to wire them up

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Edited by craftsmanmowerfreak, December 19, 2015 - 03:37 PM.


#57 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 07:40 PM

I ordered up one of them for $9.49 and free shipping,  Indak I believe was the brand , comes with 2 keys 


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#58 Rocko OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2015 - 10:02 AM

4 wires on the switch went right in place , the 5th wire which is "L" of the key switch has me confused ----- you say put it to the load wire which I would presume is the A terminal of the starter , right now I have 2 wires going to the "A" terminal of the starter , one large battery cable size #4 and a small wire , the large wire goes to one side of the solenoid and the little wire goes to the "A" terminal on bottom of the 4 wire regulator  ---you do have to remember that this is a 16 Briggs in a 15 tractor with a 4 wire regulator in place of a 3 wire and a 5 terminal key switch in place of a 4 terminal ----------- so do I tap into the two wires already on the "A" terminal of the starter or rplace one of them ???> 



#59 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2015 - 01:20 PM

The L is usually for lights, do not add it to the solenoid. 



#60 craftsmanmowerfreak OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2015 - 06:07 PM

i hook L for charging wire coming from amp meter.  but looking at the harness diagram on the 15 looks has if it ties into battery wire should be fine you can leave L post empty if you want if you left the 2 wires at the battery terminal on switch


Edited by craftsmanmowerfreak, December 24, 2015 - 06:08 PM.





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