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Bush Hog D4-10 parking brake?


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#1 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 07:38 PM

Alright guys, I am going to fill the whole Bush Hog forum with a ton of Bush Hog D4-10 posts LOL.

Anyway the manual we have for the D4-10 must be for a newer model, the parking brake setup it shows in there is cable operated. On mine it is a rotating lever and somehow locks the brake pedal down. They had the handle removed from it and sitting in the toolbox. Putting the handle back on is easy but I would like to figure out how the rotating piece works to lock the pedal in place.

The other thing I need to do is to bend the brake pedal back in place, someone must have really stepped on it at one time or another. It rubs the bell housing and doesn't let the pedal come all the way back up on it's own without a little help. That shouldn't be too bad to fix. If I get a chance tomorrow I will get a picture to help explain what I mean.

#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 07:45 PM

I also want to add, I got the oil drained out of the tranny, rinsed it a little with diesel and put the shifter cover back on with new rtv. Going to let the rtv setup overnight and will run the tractor on jack stands to get the diesel to clean out the rear and will repeat depending how messy the drainage is. Then I will put fresh gear oil in it. The stuff that drained out was just nasty. Real thick and rusty colored. Almost looked like mud.

#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:30 PM

Never seen a parking brake cable operated on any Bush Hog, even in a manual. The parking brake has a bolt that when turned is supposed to hold the brake after you press the brake pedal down. Pretty bad design, as I can't get mine to function no matter how I adjust it. Of all 3 of my D4-10's, none had the park brake lever.
My brake pedals all rub too.

#4 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:33 PM

Maybe I won't worry about it then. I would like to get the pedal a little straighter though. Just so it looks better. The manual for the D4-10 in our manuals section shows a cable going from the brake pedal to the lever at the transmission. On mine it is a rod.

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:44 PM

You know, I never noticed the cable park brake in that pdf. I have an original manual I'll have to look at again, plus a reprint from Bush Hog. I'd say the pdf is from a newer model maybe, as the system on the pdf looks more functional than the clunky lever/block design.

#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:48 PM

You know, I never noticed the cable park brake in that pdf. I have an original manual I'll have to look at again, plus a reprint from Bush Hog. I'd say the pdf is from a newer model maybe, as the system on the pdf looks more functional than the clunky lever/block design.


That is what i was thinking, it does look like it would be more functional with the one shown in the manual. I also noticed the pto and hi/lo levers are different too, the ones in the manual are shiny, chrome plated maybe with round knobs. The ones on mine are like flat stock and I am guessing when it was new it had the rubber coating on the handles. I wonder how well that dip coating they advertise for tools would work for the shift levers?

#7 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:56 PM

I am lucky, as 2 of my 3 D4-10's had perfect coatings still on the hi/lo & PTO levers. I bet that tool coating would do fine.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 08:57 PM

Did you look up the year of your engine yet George? Mine are 66, 67, and likely the other a 67 also, and all have the clunky park brake design.

#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2011 - 09:04 PM

That is what i was thinking, it does look like it would be more functional with the one shown in the manual. I also noticed the pto and hi/lo levers are different too, the ones in the manual are shiny, chrome plated maybe with round knobs. The ones on mine are like flat stock and I am guessing when it was new it had the rubber coating on the handles. I wonder how well that dip coating they advertise for tools would work for the shift levers?


The dip coating won't last. I've bought several kinds and it always looks like poo after a few months of use. You might look at heat shrink. It comes in many colors (black is the most popular) and it wears pretty well. HF has a 5 pack of different sizes (up to 1 inch) for around $5

#10 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2011 - 07:24 PM

The dip coating won't last. I've bought several kinds and it always looks like poo after a few months of use. You might look at heat shrink. It comes in many colors (black is the most popular) and it wears pretty well. HF has a 5 pack of different sizes (up to 1 inch) for around $5


I will have to try the shrink wrap. I never tried the dip coatings before. Would love to have something that would contour the top rounded part also which I wouldn't be able to do with heat shrink but I would be alright either way.

#11 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2011 - 07:27 PM

I am calling around tomorrow to see about getting the seat reupholstered. I went to loosen the bolts to straighten the backrest and the bolt broke and I barely put any tension on it. I tried center punching the bolt so I could drill it out and the wood nut popped out. So I started taking the covering off the backrest and the foam was soaked and the wood was rotted. I was going to just get the backrest done for now to save money but if I do the backrest I might as well do the seat cushion too.

I don't know how original I will be able to get it done but I will try my best.




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