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my 129


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#1 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2015 - 11:29 PM

I have had this tractor for about 2 months now, just finally took time to play with it today.

My son bought a '92 Cummins  powered 4X4 truck from a guy, I went with to help check the truck out and also a week later, when he went to pick it up, to follow him home,  and  got the 129 "thrown in".

Got 2 pairs of IH/CC wheel weights for the rear, too with it.  He had this tractor buried in his garage behind the truck so not been out in the weather.

It's been parked in the bed of my son's other truck since he got his "new" one, until last weekend when I rolled it off into my garage just in time to "not" get snowed on. 

While we were there checking out the truck, I went over and "I-spy'd" this 129, just making mental notes of differences I saw between it and my 1250.

Got a deck with it too,  looks like it has had some recent rework, good amount of newish looking hardware on it, spins smooth and quiet when engaged. Deck appears smaller than what the 1250 has.

 

I had mentioned it in another thread ("129 vs 1250" or something like that) just that I had it, not much else. Serial number says June 1972 build date.

 

the 1x8/1x9 series have always been one of my favorite Cubs, design/looks wise.  Neighbor at the end of my block always had one, while I was growing up, he kept that thing looking like brand new, never used it for anything but a mower. His son still lives there, wonder if he still has his Dad's old mower?  

 

Didn't take alot to get it to run, swapped the battery out of the 1250, put jumper cables onto it from a known good car battery I have on the shelf, found no spark.

but when I stopped cranking (left the key on in between tries to crank) and I let the magic smoke out from under the point cover. saying they were cooked, is an under statement.

so I put a new set of points/condenser I had laying around onto it, set the points (I forgot how much of a PITA it is, to get to the bottom screw holding the points in, on those units) 

and tried again. New points started smoking.  so I went and robbed the coil from my 1250 and I had spark. The PO had a "cool looking" chrome coil on it, probably a Mr Gasket, Accel, or something like that. but it's junk.

 

Once I had spark, I put the plug back in and gave it a shot of ether, it would not crank over past compression. It was weird, it would fire then backfire thru the carb, I could see it spin the right way then spin ~1/3 of a turn backwards, back n forth. It definitely has alot of compression!!!

The driveshaft pin that engaged the cup in the engine was badly worn, it's flat as a pancake, I'm surprised it didn't shear off as I tried to start it.  and it would lurch "hard" forward every time it tried to fire, so I pulled the driveshaft clean out/ and then it spun right over, and started. this lurching is in spite of the fact that I have the pedal down and the park lock engaged...... weird.

It stared up and ran quite smooth, without a bit of smoke, despite having no idea how long it has sat. 
I tempted fate and opened the shutoff, and let it run on what gas is left in the tank from the PO; looks greenish like maybe some left over 2 cycle mix... don't smell bad though.

The tunnel cover came to me in a cardboard box, the flap that disengages the valves on the hydro is busted off. I'm waiting for CC Specialties to get more in stock, I'm "on the list".  I did already get a new fan for it from him, ready to put on.

The shift lever appears stripped, it feels very loose on there, lots of range of movement but doesn't feel like it's doing much... when it does "grab" I can see the linkage under the tunnel cover move

It moves toward neutral with the pedal, too.

 

 

This unit isn't going anywhere--yet anyway, have this one, the 1250, and am hot on the trail of a 1450 that is claimed to need valves, but  so far, pix look better than my 1250 does.  and then there is my Ariens GT19. and my Woods ZTR that now has a dead left side hydro....

something's gonna have to go away, gonna have to spend some time on all of em and then figure out what stays/ what doesn't.... "that" won't happen til spring, at the earliest!


Edited by dodge trucker, November 27, 2015 - 11:34 PM.


#2 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2015 - 12:01 AM

For the hydro handle, check the set screw in it to see if its backed out at all.  They are splined so it should be tight unless it got striped out.  Also check the friction disk under the dash and see if it can be tightened a little to make the handle less sloppy.  Sometimes thats enough to make it right.  My 107 was REAL sloppy when I bought it and the friction disk was just not tight enough.


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#3 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2015 - 09:14 AM

It seems the slop is right within the handle itself, if I "twist" it, it grabs better, but still not "right".


Edited by dodge trucker, November 28, 2015 - 09:14 AM.


#4 BNK OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2015 - 02:48 PM

For the hydro handle, check the set screw in it to see if its backed out at all.  They are splined so it should be tight unless it got striped out.  Also check the friction disk under the dash and see if it can be tightened a little to make the handle less sloppy.  Sometimes thats enough to make it right.  My 107 was REAL sloppy when I bought it and the friction disk was just not tight enough.


Ditto...I am currently trying to pull my handle for some time now even using Kroil but still froze!
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#5 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2015 - 04:14 PM

I guess the worst thing that bothers me is the lurching even with the pedal locked down,   the PO said something about bad check valves, to which once I got it home and saw the busted  release flap (but before I did anything with the machine)  I thought he was talking about just that....

Can the relief valves fail in more than one manner? I thought the only thing bad they could cause, would be "no drive", like the push/tow lever was engaged....

 

also would it be OK to substitute something else for the pin in the driveshaft where it connects to the engine>  piece of metal dowel rod maybe?? or is that meant to shear like the ones on the auger of a snowblower? the rag joint on the transmission end looks fine.

 

Right now in the middle of a very major garage cleaning/rearranging project, that absolutely must get done before anything else can be worked on within. so it may be a little while before I can resume tractor work.... I cannot even turn around out there right now.

just finished insulation and OSB on the walls, everything just got pushed to a pile in the middle to get at the walls for that.

I am bringing my double bay tool box home Monday, I transferred to a different state garage for work, start there Tuesday

and the boss wont let me take my tools to the new shop on the clock..... so I have to be able to back my trailer in there overnight Monday because they are calling for rain/snow mix.... so no leaving it loaded up in the driveway.



#6 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 07:10 PM

ok small update and a Q///  finally had to do something with the 2 right side tires so they would hold air more than overnight,

took them apart from the rims and replaced the valves, put that black tire sealer tar on the lips of the wheels...

but the back wheel had something I had never seen before and was the source of the leak. 

this wheel has a valve stem on it like most others/ but that isn't what's weird/ Besides the stem on the outer face of the rim, it has a 2nd stem hole with what had a rubber plug in it directly across the face of the rim... I just removed the plug and stuck a new stem in that hole too.... so this rim has 2 valve stems in it.... has anyone ever seen a 12" 5 lug GT wheel that could have a valve put in either (or both!) sides of the wheel?



#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 08:20 PM

ok small update and a Q///  finally had to do something with the 2 right side tires so they would hold air more than overnight,

took them apart from the rims and replaced the valves, put that black tire sealer tar on the lips of the wheels...

but the back wheel had something I had never seen before and was the source of the leak. 

this wheel has a valve stem on it like most others/ but that isn't what's weird/ Besides the stem on the outer face of the rim, it has a 2nd stem hole with what had a rubber plug in it directly across the face of the rim... I just removed the plug and stuck a new stem in that hole too.... so this rim has 2 valve stems in it.... has anyone ever seen a 12" 5 lug GT wheel that could have a valve put in either (or both!) sides of the wheel?

Yep! I have a set on my Ford! But I made the second holes! :beer:


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#8 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 08:42 PM

they look factory in this case



#9 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2015 - 09:29 PM

Then you have a stem on the outside no matter which way it is flipped.
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#10 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 08:20 AM

Then you have a stem on the outside no matter which way it is flipped.

yeah....



#11 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 08:27 AM

they look factory in this case

 

Every drill bit is sharp once in it's life.


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#12 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2015 - 02:40 PM

So you're saying that they weren't made like this from new? I wonder where I could find some replacement rubber plugs like these, they look like a mini version of what you'd see in your truck under the rubber floor mat. (No cushy carpet in my truck mine gets used as a work truck ha ha)

#13 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2016 - 09:35 PM


Once I had spark, I put the plug back in and gave it a shot of ether, it would not crank over past compression. It was weird, it would fire then backfire thru the carb, I could see it spin the right way then spin ~1/3 of a turn backwards, back n forth. It definitely has alot of compression!!!

The driveshaft pin that engaged the cup in the engine was badly worn, it's flat as a pancake, I'm surprised it didn't shear off as I tried to start it.  and it would lurch "hard" forward every time it tried to fire, so I pulled the driveshaft clean out/ and then it spun right over, and started. this lurching is in spite of the fact that I have the pedal down and the park lock engaged...... weird.

It stared up and ran quite smooth, without a bit of smoke, despite having no idea how long it has sat. 
I tempted fate and opened the shutoff, and let it run on what gas is left in the tank from the PO; looks greenish like maybe some left over 2 cycle mix... don't smell bad though.

The tunnel cover came to me in a cardboard box, the flap that disengages the valves on the hydro is busted off. I'm waiting for CC Specialties to get more in stock, I'm "on the list".  I did already get a new fan for it from him, ready to put on.

The shift lever appears stripped, it feels very loose on there, lots of range of movement but doesn't feel like it's doing much... when it does "grab" I can see the linkage under the tunnel cover move

It moves toward neutral with the pedal, too.

 

I got my hydro disengage flap,  (installed on tunnel cover but not yet on tractor) and new fan for the driveshaft, but anyone have any clue on this lurch?  That bugs me.  It would do it on the compression stroke, the plug would fire, it would rotate against the lurch of the trans, which would reverse rotation, fire backwards, lurch again (always lurches forward)  engine would change direction, repeat.

something is not releasing in the charge pump it seems.   Never seen anything like this. I have to replace the drive pin thru the drive shaft and should replace the drive cup due to being wallowed out; but the only way I see to even try to start this machine  as things are now,  once that is back together, is with the back wheels jacked up.



#14 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2016 - 07:11 PM

Reviving this thread. My son just got a 1650 that would be a better parts unit than project, it is missing alot we both like the looks of the 129 a little bit better than the quiet line, the 129 has been mothballed for several months now. I have no engine for the 1650 and a few other things missing there too.
I have gotten zero info on the lurch issue the 129 has, it seems to have no neutral always in forward.
Could I use the tranny from the 1650 in the 129? Also could I swap the 1650's hydro lift into the 129??

#15 olds45512 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2016 - 01:34 PM

Yes the trans will work and so will the lift.
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