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Kwik way loader rebuild

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#76 KennyP ONLINE  



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Posted March 11, 2016 - 07:37 AM

That should lower the center of gravity some! Heavy duty for sure!

#77 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2016 - 12:15 PM

Had a rather productive day playing with my welder.

The frame pieces came out of the vat pretty good.




I've made it no secret that I can stick two pieces of metal together and they'll hold but I ain't no welder. I haven't played with this welder too much since I bought it last year and it shows in some of the welds.

I'll let some pictures do the talking.






This was about the worst of it.




Some where about when that last picture happened I ran out of the wire the machine was bought with and had to switch over to the spool of wire my wife bought me, it's from harbor freight. I've heard and read all kinds of horror stories about their wire but I wanted to try my hand at it.

It was a rough start but I kept playing with the welder settings and I got it dialed in pretty good. Every now and then though things would take a bad turn and then go good for a bit longer.

My theory is bad quality control and there was probably a lack of flux here and there in the wire.

Anywho, here's some more pictures from using the harbor freight wire.




Fitting up the cross brace.






Bottom side closed up




So it came time to add the round bar that goes to the plow latches, I brought the 816 to the shop, pulled the battery and set the frame in place so I could tack the round bar. That's when things got....interesting.






I knew something would pop up along the way. While trying to get the frame back out I discovered I couldn't. I pictured the drawing Ron posted and realised that's why the frame was two pieces.

So I'm thinking on how to do this with what I have. My idea is to cut the frame, weld some 3" angle iron to the back half and two bolts to tie it all back together once it's in place under the tractor.







#78 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2016 - 12:27 PM

I made some more real good progress on the sub frame. And I'll be able to convert it back to original should I want to.

Here's the scoop. 

When I tried putting the sub frame in before so I could tack weld the cross bar then pull it to weld I found out it wouldn't come out of the plow brackets. I also couldn't get the front end to release from the front brackets. I needed to make the frame so that it would go in and extend out into the plow brackets. I measured the throat of the plow brackets and found them to be about 1 3/4" deep. That means I need to remove 2" of the new frame in order for my idea to work. I did some picking through my scrap pile and found a real nice length of angle iron. I spent a lot of time carefully measuring everything until I was satisfied my idea would work.

I took some measurements and transferred them to the angle iron for where the bolts will go and drilled the starter holes for the larger bit to follow.




I put the angle iron on location on the frame and drilled that off too.




Now for the fun part, I wanted to leave the cross brace on the back half of the frame so I could remove the two pieces that are bolted to the original frame so the 2 inches needed to come off the forward side of the brace.

Also if you look at the flat bar stiffener I welded in earlier you'll see a mark where the angle iron will sit and get welded to.




I cut one side free then clamped one of the angle irons to it so it wouldn't just fall to the floor while I cut the other side loose.










Now I can cut off the two inch pieces.




Once that's done I took the back end of the frame and the angle iron over to the drill press and drilled the holes to 17/32".

Back at the bench I reassembled the frame to check if it works and it does.




Here's a better picture showing what I'm up to.




Now in order for this to slide back I have to elongate the holes in the angle iron. So out come the poor mans dye chem (marker) and I put a heavy line between the holes. Then just lay a straight edge over the outside edges and scribe a line. 




A few minutes with my grinder and a cutting wheel and I have slots.




Here's a better picture showing what I mean by being able to return the frame back to original. Just four bolts and my extension comes right off.




I'm hoping to get some quality time with my welder soon and this will be done and ready for paint.

I'm thinking the installation will go something like this. Assemble the front and back half of the frame with one bolt on each side in the rear set of holes. Slide the two sections together until they stop. Put the cross bar into the front latches. Raise the frame and extend the two sections all the way out to engage the plow latches and tighten the bolts. Then install the last two bolts and tighten.

I'm also thinking I may have to trim the angle iron where it goes across the top because it might be sticking out too far and will hit the transmission.

More when it happens.

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#79 tiretrx OFFLINE  


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Posted April 04, 2016 - 01:45 PM

More good progress, Don :thumbs:

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#80 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2016 - 02:27 PM

Thanks Ellis, I'm in a bit of a holding pattern due to the weather. Not much I can do until I get some welding done.

#81 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 02:36 PM

Let's play catch up.


Finally got some time to play with the loader. I wheeled the 816 to the shop mostly because it has power and I need to weld.

I set the frame in place so I could tack the cross bar in place.




I had to cut the welds back a little in order to get the angle iron pieces where I wanted them.






Once I had them welded down I hammered the upright part up against the rod and finished welding. I also marked and cut the round bar down to length.






Now for the proof in the pudding. Will my idea work?




Like a charm but with one small caveat. The latch won't go down past the rear bolt.




No problem, just take that one out and flop the latch in place then put the bolt back and tighten them all down. There is a side benefit too, I don't have to pin the latch but I will.




This is what it looks like under the tractor.




I have it back out now and will take it into work tomorrow night and paint it up and call this part done. fing32.gif
I'm also going to do a detailed description with sizes for all the parts I added.


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#82 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2016 - 02:38 PM

I got the frame painted and safely tucked away. I'm probably going to back off the loader project a little bit to concentrate more on the 816. I think all I left to make is the braces that go from the front of the tractor to the up rights, I'll need the loader mounted to make those.







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#83 Auburn David OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 08:33 AM

"I brought the cylinders into work because we have a better work bench there than I do at home. It's all steel and very strong. I will need this to get the cylinders apart. The end caps are aluminum and held in with a snap ring. From sitting, the aluminum oxidizes and forms a strong bond to the cylinder itself. Here's one of the bucket cylinders, apart showing what I'm talking about."




Frankin tractor has this same counter sunk snap-ring setup and the had to cut them at the ring slot to get them apart and then re weld..how did you do it if I might ask?

#84 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2016 - 08:44 PM

Sorry for the late reply. I'm working the night shift 7:00 to 7:00 and was sleeping most of the day. Swing shifts are great. 


The end cap has a groove the snap ring sits in and it's fairly deep so when you squeeze the snap ring to release it it has some place to go.

Mine sat outside for who knows how long and the aluminum corroded itself to the cylinder, lots of penetrating oil, some heat and determination.

To get the end cap started I strung it up between two of the building I beams with a two ton come a long, it almost wasn't enough. Squeeze the snap ring and take up on the come a long. Once I had the snap ring free of the groove in the cylinder I put the rod end in a vise and used a slide hammer type of effect.

With the ram fully retracted give it a sharp pull until you hit the end. Each time the end cap would move a little.

Total time about 4 hours per cylinder.

If I had a way to weld it all back up and remachine the snap ring groove cutting it at the snap ring would have been the easiest method. That was the toughest part of the entire job so far.


Note: Unless you really know what you're doing I don't suggest using a come a long to get it started like I did. It can be very dangerous and someone could get hurt or killed. I used to work in a shipyard where weight was measured in tons so I have the experience.