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Kwik way loader rebuild


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#46 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2016 - 06:23 PM

Coming right along
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#47 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2016 - 02:14 PM

Update time.

I decided it was time to get the arm cylinders done and get some paint on them.
The first order of business was to make sure everything was clean and the pieces fit like they should. Once satisfied the parts fit and are clean, time to assemble these bad boys.

Up first, lay out all the software.

 

20160101_020010.jpg

 

Then it's a matter of putting things where they belong. O ring and backup on the inside and a wiper on top.

 

20160101_021610.jpg

 

O ring and back up on the outside. I've never worked with the solid type of backups before only the coiled split ones. They are relatively simple to install but you do need to be careful. I pulled on them to stretch the outer ones so they would go over the end cap. Don't pull too hard or they may break. 
This is also a good time to put the snap ring back on too.

 

20160101_022953.jpg

 

A small o ring here.

 

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O ring and backup here.

 

20160101_023132.jpg

 

I used some transmission fluid to slick things up some so the o rings would slide. Put the end cap on then the lower part of the piston and finally the nut. Tighten the nut and stake it in two places to lock it in. You want to stake the nut in a different place than it was originally.

 

20160101_020451.jpg

 

Put a little more transmission fluid on the outer o rings and slide the whole thing into it's cylinder. I'm not sure how important it is but I kept the cylinder parts together so the same pieces went back in the cylinders they came out of.
I chucked the rod end in the vise and brought the cylinder up to the o ring on the end cap. This is where being an octopus would come in handy or having another person. Being by myself pictures were impossible to get of the final assembly and I was anxious to get started on painting the cylinders.
I used a medium sized hammer (12oz) and gently tapped the end cap into the cylinder until the snap ring came up against the cylinder. Then I squeezed the snap ring closed and tapped the end cap again until the snap ring was inside and I finished driving it home until the snap ring seated.
While tapping the end cap be careful not to hit the wiper seal. An open end wrench that fits outside of the seal is a good idea.
Once both cylinders were together I moved them over to the paint area and wiped them down with mineral spirits and let that dry. You can also see where I painted the support tube and hard line prior to assembling them because these areas would be inaccessible for paint. 

 

20160101_030827.jpg

 

The first side is painted and drying, the next night I flipped them over and paint the other side and these are done.

 

20160101_031452.jpg

 

I'm getting down to just a few more pieces of this puzzle left to do and hopefully if the weather doesn't do to us what it did last year I can get started on the 816 and finish getting it done and have this ready for a spring time debut. 
More when it happens.


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#48 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2016 - 02:21 PM

Small update.
When I rebuilt the hydraulic valves there were bolts holding the handles on and there really isn't room for this kind of setup. 
The big reason bolts don't work is if you install them with the heads out there isn't enough room for the nuts between the two valves and if you put the heads of the bolts on the inside you can't get them out to rebuild one valve if needed and have to take the whole thing apart. The handles have to come off in order to get the valve apart.
I picked up a two pack if hitch pins from tractor supply last week and got them installed yesterday.
Here's one of them. I looked for hair pin clips too but they were too small for my liking so for now I put cotter pins in.

 

20160202_145404.jpg

 

As you can see the pins a too long so I put them in to see where to cut them down for a good fit.

 

20160202_145357.jpg

 

Last but not least both pins cut down and pinned in place.

 

20160202_151354.jpg

 

I hope to get to the scrapyard and see if I can find some steel to use to extend the subframe and I'll get rid of some clutter too. Unfortunately prices are way down for selling scrap so I'm not expecting much from what I have but since I'm going to look for steel then it's worth taking just to get rid of it.
I still need to find a detent ball that's around .200" for the float function, not having a lot of luck with that. I did find them at McMaster Carr but I really don't need 249 spares. I'm going to look at roller bearings and see if I can scavenge one from that. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.


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#49 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2016 - 02:23 PM

So I just got back from the scrap yard, they didn't have any flat bar near the size I needed 3/4X1 3/4" not the 1/2" I thought it was. I did however find some channel iron that will work just fine. I got a nice piece 8 feet long and it only cost me $10. Minus the $4 for the little bit of junk I brought with me and I'm into it for $6 out of pocket.
And my yard is a little neater.

 

20160203_135827.jpg



#50 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2016 - 02:25 PM

These were sitting on my doorstep when I got home the other day.

 

20160212_105738.jpg

 

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These are nothing short of perfect, my hats off to Ellis for taking my little project on. I can't begin to say just how happy I am with these new rods.
While I have no doubt the new rods will work like the factory ones they will be proofed out as much as I can so the machining program can be saved for future jobs.
Until I get the hydraulics operational I will put the cylinders back together, install the loader on the 816 and move the bucket by hand to check for full travel. 
I know I keep saying this but thank you Ellis.


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#51 tiretrx ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2016 - 09:14 AM

You're welcome, Don, glad I could help out.

 

This project is really coming together nicely. Paint looks great! Looks like you'll have it together in time for Spring :thumbs:


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#52 PaulL OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 02:33 AM

Would this do for your .200 ball? It is about .003" undersize. http://www.amazon.co...ords=steel ball You could also try a bicycle repair shop or Ace Hardware.
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#53 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2016 - 10:45 PM

Those might work. Thanks.



#54 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 06:54 PM

Hey, pictures are showing today and real nice to see. You do nice work.  I'll be watching.


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#55 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2016 - 08:12 PM

Nice, 

Those pins are a good idea.


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#56 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 08:49 AM

Hey, pictures are showing today and real nice to see. You do nice work.  I'll be watching.

 

Thanks for the compliment, fortunately the pictures disappearing due to photo bucket site maintenance doesn't happen too often.

 

Nice, 

Those pins are a good idea.

 

Thanks.

I think originally the pins from the factory had a groove for an E clip. Somewhere along the life of my loader bolts were substituted and as I said in that post bolts don't work for when maintenance on a valve needs to be done. 



#57 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 09:56 AM

Update time.



This won't be as picture heavy as my other posts mostly because the bucket cylinders share the same design as the lift arm cylinders. Meaning the assembly is the same so since I've already covered that I won't do it here.

I will cover the key points of cleanliness and fit. I cleaned all the parts a while back for the bucket cylinders but when dealing with hydraulic fluid, o rings and backups it a good idea to go over everything again to be sure.

One piece of foreign material can cause a leak and you really don't want that. I originally wanted to assemble the cylinders last night but I evidently separated the wiper seals from the rest of the seal kit and had left them on my bench at home. I grabbed those when I got home from work this morning.

So last night I spent quite a few hours making sure all the parts were ready. The payoff is tonight the cylinders are going together like they should.

One key point to talk about here is prepping the new replacement rods. You want to go over them with a fine toothed comb and not just assume they're ready to just assemble. Just run your fingers over the machine surfaces. It only takes a minute or two because there isn't much to them.

I checked all the areas that were touched with a tool bit and the area that rides inside the cylinder past the o rings. The only thing of note was a slight roughness to the machined threads. While not enough to jam up the nut it could cut the small o ring that goes into the groove above them.

There are a few ways to address this, the simplest is to tape over the threads and roll the o ring over the tape. I took a strip of emery paper I used to clean the end cap and gently worked the threads to remove the roughness. The strip of emery paper had worn down to a very fine grit after cleaning the end cap so there was no danger of wrecking the threads. Also too the total time to dress the threads was like 10 seconds with light to moderate pressure.

Now don't go thinking I'm throwing Ellis under the bus by mentioning this, the same thing could happen if you went to a local hydraulic shop. It is very common when turning threads for them to have a rough feel to them and it's normally not a major concern and if this were a straight up nut and bolt application it would have been fine. The o rings were the deciding factor for me to check the threads.

I have one cylinder together already and I've run the rod in and out a few times. The expected amount of resistance is there and I'm confident these cylinders will provide me or the next owner many years of service.

I had certain expectations going into this project and I am well satisfied with the results so far.


When I assembled the lift arm cylinders the one thing I didn't cover was setting the end cap into the cylinder. I did some thinking on how I could best show how to do this and came up with the following.



Place the rod assembly into the cylinder housing and set the end cap so the snap ring is just above the housing.

 

20160218_212810.jpg

 

Squeeze the snap ring with the pliers and gently tap the end cap until the snap ring is inside the bore with a hammer.

Be very careful not to scratch the chrome finish with the tools, tape on the chrome is a good idea.

 

20160218_212837.jpg

 

20160218_212810.jpg

 

Next take a drift pin and gently tap the end cap until the snap ring pops into it's groove.

 

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And this one is ready for paint. The rod is fully seated inside the cylinder.

 

20160218_213208.jpg

 

I believe all I have left to do besides paint is make the modifications to the sub frame and make up the two supports that go from the front of the tractor to the uprights.

I have an idea on how to do those, while cleaning up my scrap I found a set of handlebars for an L not doing anything and those are pretty easy to find if needed so they will be sacrificed.


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#58 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 10:19 AM

I got a chance yesterday to see what I needed to do to extend the sub frame back to the snow plow mounts instead of the method Kwik way originally intended for the sub frame to mount. Kwik way first used a set of bolt on clips that went up to the frame of the tractor to hold the rear of the sub frame, to me this didn't seem too stable and I learned later that kwik way had indeed changed the design at some point to do just what I'm doing.

Not having any kind of dimensions to go by I had to wrestle an 8 foot piece of channel iron under the tractor and hold it in place so I could get those dimensions and see what would be the best way to make the extension. I was hoping to extend the frame on the same plane it's already on but the plow mounts are lower than the frame and there isn't enough length to do a good strong jog down to the plow mounts. But if I place the channel iron under the frame it's a straight run back. It does cut into my ground clearance some but I don't think it will be a major issue. I now have a plan in place and will continue with the modification.

More on that later as I get into it.

 

20160222_144311.jpg


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#59 tiretrx ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 11:29 AM

I'm getting that "Christmas Eve" feeling, Don :thumbs: This has been a great thread to follow, and I appreciate you going the extra mile and sharing with us, thanks!


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#60 devans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2016 - 11:45 AM

Thanks Ellis.

I think the sharing part is just as much fun as the doing part. Sometimes I learn something when someone chimes in with a don't go there reply and sometimes someone else will learn something. Every body wins.


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