Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Kwik way loader rebuild


  • Please log in to reply
83 replies to this topic

#16 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:18 PM

I started working on clean up of the rest of the loader since the fit test went well. One method I had read about for rust removal is simply white vinegar. It makes sense because after all it's a mild acid.

I wanted to do a test run first so I gathered up some of the small parts and bought a couple of gallons.

 

Here's the coupling for the pump. Not a lot of heavy rust.

 

20151030_110133.jpg

 

20151030_110142.jpg

 

Into a 5 gallon bucket where they sat for a few days. This is not a fast method but I assure you it's thorough.

 

20151030_111154.jpg

 

The coupling after.

 

20151101_212911.jpg

 

20151101_212919.jpg


  • gopher said thank you

#17 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:43 PM

I'm hoping that in the next few weeks I can get the hydraulic parts I need, minus the new rods for now. Things are going to get crazy at work the first week of December so I may not be able to work on this as much as I'd like to. I'd like to have parts on hand for when I do have the time here and there instead of letting it sit.

 

Here's another favorite part of mine, paint. The larger parts I did with a wire wheel because I don't have a tank big enough.

 

20151107_100541.jpg

 

20151107_101356.jpg

 

The uprights and pump. There's a transformer at work that runs a constant 98 degrees, I like to lay the freshly painted parts on it to cure overnight after the paint sets up enough to handle safely.

 

20151108_133757.jpg

 

20151108_133811.jpg

 

20151108_135405.jpg

 

The sub frame.

 

20151114_215255.jpg

 

The hard lines for the hydraulics and the mount for the loader valve.

20151114_215321.jpg

 

I still need to clean and paint the arms and the bucket, extend the sub frame and paint it plus the cylinders. I'm going to rebuild the cylinders before painting them so there's little to no touch up required.

When things finally slow down at work the tractor is going to get torn down and repainted, that will be put in the 816 thread. When all is said and done the tractor and loader will look good as new.


  • olcowhand, Alc, KennyP and 1 other said thanks

#18 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted November 24, 2015 - 09:57 AM

Well one more major hurdle done and it's the most expensive one. I went to a local hydraulic shop and had all new hoses made up along with a bunch of new fittings. I also picked up all new software to rebuild the cylinders.
I have to work over the thanksgiving holiday so besides painting more parts I'm going to go through and label which hose goes where and pull the hydraulic valve apart to clean it and replace the o rings. I still need to pick up a filter assembly too.
I'm still trying to figure out a good way to get the loader arms and bucket done. Those are really big. It's too cold to paint at the house right now and loading them into my truck I run a high risk of damaging the fresh paint.

 

20151123_150256.jpg


  • KennyP said thank you

#19 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 02, 2015 - 01:32 PM

I've seen quite a few questions asked about the loader spool valves and figured while I'm at it I'd document the tear down and rebuild here in my thread for anyone who may have their own questions.
They're actually pretty simple to work on.

So lets take some of the mystery out of hydraulic valves.
I completely took this thing apart because of some rather interesting stuff I found inside. I did leave the relief valve alone as there was no need to take it apart. 
Here are the pictures.

Before.

 

20151126_211829_1.jpg

 

Segments separated.

 

20151126_214215.jpg

 

A bit of corrosion happening between the aluminum ends and the bolts that hold the whole thing together.

 

20151126_214311_1.jpg

 

See what I mean. YUCK!

 

20151126_214939.jpg

 

This one is the loader arm valve.

 

20151126_215344.jpg

 

Bucket valve.

 

20151127_004626_1.jpg

 

20151127_004718_1.jpg

 

The preliminary cleaning is done, I thought I had some scotch brite pads at work but no. I brought some in on my next shift and gave the bodies a good scrubbing and prep them for painting. The aluminum I'll leave as is.
I guess I need to go back to the hydraulic shop and get some more orings too.

 

20151127_023020.jpg

 

 


  • Alc, KennyP, gopher and 1 other said thanks

#20 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 02, 2015 - 01:35 PM

I did finally just figure out what's wrong with one of the spool valves. I kept reading that the loader arm valve has a built in float position. The evidence of that is the longer aluminum cap. However mine wouldn't stay in the float position so I started thinking maybe mine doesn't have float.
While doing some more cleaning tonight I was looking at the parts and thought it has to have a float position but why is it not working.
Answer, because the detente ball that holds the spool in the float position is missing.
I'll have to size it up and get a replacement. At least I'll have float for leveling material.

 

20151127_215623.jpg

 

20151127_215815.jpg


  • Alc and KennyP have said thanks

#21 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 02, 2015 - 01:44 PM

Once everything is apart and all the o rings removed clean up can begin in earnest. Don't forget this one BTW.

 

20151127_202551.jpg

 

Here's some of my o ring removal tools from my nuclear days.

 

20151127_202737.jpg

 

Here unfortunately is where my OCD kicks in. There's some raised metal along some of the edges and ground in dirt on the two aluminum end caps, the dirt isn't really a big deal because it's outside of the o ring sealing area. The raised metal edges have to go because they might keep the two pieces from mating properly and effect the seal.

 

20151127_205650.jpg

 

I hit the raised metal with a jewelers file and ran the aluminum block on a lapping plate with some 400 grit paper. Only just enough to clean it up some.

 

20151127_210449.jpg

 

I did the same thing to the cast iron segments, minus the file because there wasn't any raised metal.

 

20151127_210739.jpg

 

I can't see letting the cast iron pieces go unpainted even though they didn't look like they were painted before but before I can do that I need to mask off all the machined surfaces. For the holes on the ends where the levers are I cut out a plug from an old thick gasket and carefully fit it in.

Carefully masking off for paint is the second hardest part of painting.

 

20151201_103325.jpg

 

Fresh coat of paint.

 

20151201_121719.jpg

 

After letting the pieces sit for a few hours I took all the tape off. It's easier to do this now than after the paint has fully hardened. Then the number one hardest part of painting, letting the paint dry.

I have the pieces sitting on the transformer at work, I use this to help the paint dry nice and hard because it's a constant 98 degrees. They will stay there over night.

 

20151201_160643.jpg

 

Next up I'll do some fine clean up of the paint and start assembling the valves. I bought all new o rings the other day.


  • Alc and KennyP have said thanks

#22 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 02, 2015 - 02:19 PM

Well it's tomorrow and the paint is nice and dry. First up is to clean up any paint that got under the tape. I'm still using up my blue painters tape and it's getting kind of old so it bleeds easier.



I'll start at one end and work my way over to the other with the segments and then assemble the internals of the spool valves. You can do the spools first then the segments also but the way I'm doing it gives me something bigger to hang onto when doing the spools. Which ever way makes the most sense to you is fine.

I put the three bolts that hold the assembly together through the end cap and set it on end, this will make the subsequent assembly easier and it helps with keeping the o rings in place. A word about that, if you have o rings that won't stay in their grooves then a little silicone grease on them will do the trick.



Here's the first segment. Notice the o ring groove is oval, a round o ring fits and stays just fine. No lube required.

 

20151202_073504.jpg

 

20151202_073520.jpg

 

Set the next segment in place and install the orings.

 

20151202_073549.jpg

 

20151202_073653.jpg

 

And again for the next segment.

 

20151202_073738.jpg

 

Place the last end cap on then the washers and nuts. Torque the nuts to 90-100 inch pounds. I found the torque value and IPL for the spool valve in the manual for a sears GT.

 

20151202_073810.jpg

 

Now for the spools. Apply a little silicone grease to the end o ring and squeeze it into the inside grove. A good set of picks like I used to remove the old o rings will be needed to work the o ring around and seat it in it's grove.

 

20151202_074705.jpg

 

Do the same for the other end and slide the spacers and detent spacer over their spools.

 

20151202_082854.jpg

 

20151202_083021.jpg

 

Install the end caps. The longer one goes to the spool valve set up for the float function.

 

20151202_084635.jpg

 

Install the actuator handles and your pretty much ready to install it back on the loader.

A previous owner had installed bolts in the handles but there is supposed to be pins with a locking clip. I need to get a set on my next trip to the hardware store but for now I have screws hold the handles in place.

 

20151202_084652.jpg

 

20151202_084719.jpg

 

I also need to replace the detent ball in mine and once done it will need to be adjusted enough to hold the handle in place but also be easily released manually per the instructions from the same manual.

 

 


  • MH81, Alc, KennyP and 2 others have said thanks

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,461 Thanks
  • 39,690 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 02, 2015 - 05:59 PM

Thanks! I have a set of valves like that! And my Sears FF's uses this type of valve.



#24 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 02, 2015 - 08:35 PM

No problem  Kenny I'm happy to share. The key thing to remember don't force the spools when removing them or installing. Light gentle taps are fine.

Give me a yell if you have questions.


  • KennyP said thank you

#25 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,300 Thanks
  • 28,626 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted December 02, 2015 - 11:27 PM

Coming along nicely. You'll be happy with the auto leveler, keeps you from getting dirt in your hair :D
  • devans said thank you

#26 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 03, 2015 - 08:24 AM

Coming along nicely. You'll be happy with the auto leveler, keeps you from getting dirt in your hair :D

Thanks for the encouragement, and the laugh. It's going to sit for the winter while I rebuild the tractor it's going on. My 1972 816. Well as long as this winter isn't as cold as the last two. 



#27 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 10, 2015 - 09:15 PM

I've been working extra shifts due to one of the guys taking some vacation time so I brought the two biggest pieces of this puzzle, the arms and the bucket. I spent the first two shifts cleaning them up with the wire wheel then the fun part, paint.

 

20151209_202205.jpg

 

20151210_024130.jpg


  • MH81, Alc, KennyP and 2 others have said thanks

#28 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,738 Thanks
  • 8,913 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted December 10, 2015 - 10:16 PM

What did you use for a lapping plate? I only see a laptop.......

 

:rolling:



#29 devans OFFLINE  

devans
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68585
  • 367 Thanks
  • 256 posts
  • Location: Charlestown, R.I.

Posted December 10, 2015 - 10:28 PM

Yeah that was it, it's an experimental model...... :smilewink:............Wise Guy. :bigrofl:

We have a small (12"X12") cast iron lapping plate at work.


  • Cat385B said thank you

#30 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,300 Thanks
  • 28,626 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted December 11, 2015 - 09:02 AM

After studying those,valves, where would it be possible to add on one more valve?
I have a set of forks for mine and it would be nice to have a "thumb" on it occasionally when using the forks for non-pallet situations.

It would almost have to be outside the assembly and mounted low due to a limited amount of room where they are now.

Don't mean to hijack, just wondering if you have a thought being freshly in there an all.




Top