Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Pictures of the Steiner S20 On the Trailer and Heading Home

steiner s20 steiner 420 leaf blower rotary broom

  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#16 Eric OFFLINE  

Eric
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 41778
  • 987 Thanks
  • 672 posts
  • Location: Wisconsin

Posted November 20, 2015 - 05:12 PM

I am not sure of the fluid they are talking about. I was a hydraulics specialist in the Navy and I would say that any fluid that is the same viscosity as the fluid mentioned would work. Hydraulic fluid is all anti foaming due to the fact that air is a hyd. systems worst nightmare! Most systems in tractors have air bleeders in them to expel any bubbles that may find their way into the system anyways. I have heard good things about HY GAURD you may want to go with that or similar. To tell you the truth most fluids are manufactured in the same place so don't spend an arm and a leg on expensive fluid as it won't make much difference. Good luck.
  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#17 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,436 Thanks
  • 39,677 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 21, 2015 - 10:05 AM

Try some Acetone/ATF! I use that all the time on rusted bolts and have had success every time.


  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#18 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:05 PM

I am not sure of the fluid they are talking about. I was a hydraulics specialist in the Navy and I would say that any fluid that is the same viscosity as the fluid mentioned would work. Hydraulic fluid is all anti foaming due to the fact that air is a hyd. systems worst nightmare! Most systems in tractors have air bleeders in them to expel any bubbles that may find their way into the system anyways. I have heard good things about HY GAURD you may want to go with that or similar. To tell you the truth most fluids are manufactured in the same place so don't spend an arm and a leg on expensive fluid as it won't make much difference. Good luck.

Thanks, Eric... good information.

 

Smitty



#19 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:06 PM

Try some Acetone/ATF! I use that all the time on rusted bolts and have had success every time.

Thanks, Kenny!!

 

I did get the fitting off using the hammer trick, but I'll store this info away for future reference--in this hobby we're always trying to free rusted bolts!

 

Smitty



#20 UncleWillie ONLINE  

UncleWillie

    wabbit wangler

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10399
  • 12,748 Thanks
  • 7,698 posts
  • Location: Gaston county, NC

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:14 PM

Thanks, Kenny!!

 

I did get the fitting off using the hammer trick, but I'll store this info away for future reference--in this hobby we're always trying to free rusted bolts!

 

Smitty

I thought this hobby was all about trying to loosen rusted bolts with tractors as a side benefit.


  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#21 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,722 Thanks
  • 8,904 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted November 21, 2015 - 01:17 PM

Most auto parts stores have 5 gallon pails of hydraulic oil, the most common is the JD J-20 equivalent.
  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#22 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 21, 2015 - 11:39 PM

I thought this hobby was all about trying to loosen rusted bolts with tractors as a side benefit.

LOL!!! Yep, and the only reason I keep removing rusted bolts is because of the side benefits!!!

 

 

smitty



#23 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 22, 2015 - 12:41 AM

Most auto parts stores have 5 gallon pails of hydraulic oil, the most common is the JD J-20 equivalent.

Thanks, CAT 385B

 

A TRC Distributor's website says that TRC Universal Torque Fluid can be used in lieu of JD J-20, so I assumed the reverse is also true.  I have about 3 gallons of NAPA Hydraulic Tractor Fluid, stock # 84-575 which is compatible with JD J-20, Cat TO-2, IHC HyTran B-6, etc.   I'll need 5 gallons before I'm done, so I'll probably end up buying another 5 gallon pail.  NAPA just bought out my favorite independent parts store, but the former owner is still running the place, and they're only 1/2 mile from my house, so it's pretty convenient.

 

Smitty


  • Alc said thank you

#24 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 22, 2015 - 01:53 AM

Well, more progress on the Steiner S20.

 

I have every other Friday off, so I worked all day Friday, and most of today on the Steiner.  I did take a break this evening as it's my oldest son's birthday, and the wife and I took him and his wife and 20 month old son to dinner. It was fun to be with them, and fun to watch my grandson finger paint his face with spaghetti sauce and ice cream. 

 

Anyway, as I mentioned in an earlier post, after changing the engine oil and filter, I managed to get the tractor started by jury-rigging the wiring to the coil and starter, and using a small snowblower fuel tank clamped to the cab.

 

The tank was a mess--the bottom covered with a thick coating of lacquered gasoline and rust.  When I drained the tank, it ran very slowly--too slow to keep an engine running.  Shooting a blast of compressed air through it helped a little, but I could tell I had some major issues in the tank.

 

Before picture-- Tank--Dirty.jpg

 

I started to clean up the tank by pouring 2 gallons of white vinegar into it Thursday evening, sloshed it around some, then let it sit overnight.

 

Friday morning I was able to get the cap off the tank sump using the two-hammer method that Chieffan suggested.  I expected to get an immediate rush of rusty vinegar into the drain pan, but all that came out was a trickle...and a handful of crud.  The 2" pipe cap was also full of the same crud, and it was packed in... what a mess to clean out.

 

When I jabbed a screwdriver into the open end of the sump, the vinegar came rushing out along with large chunks of rust flakes, etc.:

 

IMG_20151120_125503_710.jpg

 

I knew from using the 5/8 heater hose to try to dislodge the crud that the metal beneath was clean, but the problem was how to dislodge it all.  I tried the heater hose technique a few more times, but it was too slow and inconsistent.  I then thought of using a brush of some kind, and found one at WalMart that is used to clean air duct grills, etc.  I bent it into a "P" shape to have a larger area that was doing the brushing, and worked with this for over an hour.

 

Tank--cleaning brush.jpg

 

I drained the tank--still rust-colored vinegar and chunks, though not as bad.

 

I often buy a gadget or tool because it looks cool, or seems to be an answer to a yet-to-be-seen problem, so when I saw a video inspection camera at Harbor Freight for $89 minus 20%, my wife put it into the same category--

 

Inspection Camera.jpg

 

I would have agreed, but this has been a great tool and makes me wish I'd bought one years before.  I've used it to look inside spark plug holes (it will fit inside a 3/8" hole) to get an idea of the condition of the piston and cylinders on an engine, checked out the fillings on my teeth (when I first got it), and used the included mirror to check out the inside of a shotgun barrel. I used it to check the inside of the tank after each scrubbing. Although a lot of the tank was clean, it still showed large areas that hadn't been touched..

 

I then thought of another HF tool--a compressed air sprayer.  It uses compresed air, to draw liquids up a hose and sprays it out a nozzle at the end of an 18" wand.

 

Tank--Air Sprayer.jpg

 

I've used it with diesel fuel to clean off grimy parts, with linseed oil to treat the deck of my trailer, and with degreaser and water to clean off oil stains from my driveway.  In this case I used more white vinegar, and adjusted the valve to give maximum flow of liquid... a heavy spray of liquid at 100 psi is pretty effective--it got a lot more crud off in areas I couldn't reach with my brush.

 

I did this for a half dozen times--inspecting the tank with the camera between each effort.  It did a pretty good job, but didn't get everything... I could see that I could spend a lot more time trying to clean the tank, with little more results, so I finally called it good.

 

I next sprayed a mixture of hot water and Simple Green into the tank to clean out any remaining varnish or fuel, then followed up with clean water.  I blew the tank out with compressed air to try and dry it, then sprayed Sea Foam on the inside to prevent flash rusting.  (It was the only product I had that wasn't in an aerosol).  The results were great!--

 

Tank--Clean.jpg

 

By the time I got to this point it was late, so I called it a night and vowed to finish it up the next morning...

 

Smitty


  • olcowhand, Alc and KennyP have said thanks

#25 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,436 Thanks
  • 39,677 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 22, 2015 - 06:33 AM

Looks like you are making progress on that tank!


  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#26 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,450 Thanks
  • 6,618 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted November 22, 2015 - 06:55 AM

That came out great ! I was laughing about what you said about buying tools becuse you might need it . I've done that too but I've bought tools and did a job that I could have used them for then after remembered that they were sitting in the workbench lol
  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#27 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted November 26, 2015 - 12:02 PM

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!!  Hopefully you're all gathered with loved ones and enjoying the day.

 

 

 

Well, I must not have got enough of the tank cleaned, because I've had to replace the fuel filter and purge the fuel lines twice, now..., but, I finally got it running last night... just in time to plow the 1/2" of snow we got, LOL!!

 

I changed out the hydraulic oil as well, and put a new filter on it.  I've had about 3 gallons of NAPA tractor fluid that meets the JD J20C and IHC HyTrans spec from when I worked on mom's IHC 4 years ago. It says it's a 10W20 oil, but it came out really thick--about like pancake syrup. 

 

Is it possible that it changed from being stored for that long?

 

The pump still has a loud whine to it... from the color of the oil I drained (black and silver), I'm sure it's due to wear.  I was assured before I bid on it that regular maintenance had been done on it... right... I guess their idea of regular maintenance was to fill it with gas and check the air in the tires once in a while...

 

Smitty


Edited by Utah Smitty, November 26, 2015 - 12:04 PM.

  • Alc, KennyP and Oldford have said thanks

#28 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,436 Thanks
  • 39,677 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 26, 2015 - 12:44 PM

Glad you had it running. Don't know on the oil being thick.



#29 UncleWillie ONLINE  

UncleWillie

    wabbit wangler

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10399
  • 12,748 Thanks
  • 7,698 posts
  • Location: Gaston county, NC

Posted November 27, 2015 - 11:22 PM

I have one of those HF borescopes I use it about twice a year. It is priceless those 2 times.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: steiner, s20, steiner 420, leaf blower, rotary broom

Top