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Three point and electric assist.


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#1 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 08:43 PM

Last April I purchased a Sears 3point hitch and an electric lift assist kit form TomLGT195. (Thanks Tom). I installed the 3point soon after getting it but left the electric assist on the shelf as it was actually a kit for mounting under the tractor and not on a 3 point although they are the same motor. I finally got around to fabricating some parts and mounting it on my GT16 Sears. also attached are three pics of my Brothers  tractor that I used for a guideline as to positioning the linkage before welding everything together. I need to take it off and clean up the welds p aint it and clean up the wiring also.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by Traill95, November 19, 2015 - 08:45 PM.

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#2 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 09:24 PM

Nice looking job, I always liked the electric lifts. Hope it works out for you.
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#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 09:45 PM

So, how do those work??  electric hydraulic or just electric? Just geared to a threaded rod in center under that cover then? I see the link end at top, but is that metal strap links on outside of body that do the lifting part?  Those just don't seem to be all that heavy to me, and was wondering how they hold up, as in how many years and uses, etc? Even a heavy snow blade seems too much for them as I am looking at them. So, also is there a float position? Think would need something to allow a little give in situations. Powered down also I assume if not hydraulic?


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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 12:14 AM

Nice job. Looks like it should work well for you.

So, how do those work??  electric hydraulic or just electric? Just geared to a threaded rod in center under that cover then? I see the link end at top, but is that metal strap links on outside of body that do the lifting part?  Those just don't seem to be all that heavy to me, and was wondering how they hold up, as in how many years and uses, etc? Even a heavy snow blade seems too much for them as I am looking at them. So, also is there a float position? Think would need something to allow a little give in situations. Powered down also I assume if not hydraulic?


No powered down, the float is built in via an outer sleeve on the actuator
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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 07:36 AM

I am looking at a power trim and tilt unit off an old outboard boat motor to convert as a power lift unit.  The tilt part works fairly fast but the trim is kind of slow so would have to use the linkage to gain the speed.  Power would not be a problem as they have a tremendous amount of torque.  A dual cylinder unit using only one cylinder would probably work the best.  Might find one this winter some place.


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#6 wahoowad OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 08:22 AM

Traill95 - Did you fabricate your own lift arms for the 3 pt hitch? How did you get the slight bend in the exact right place? I need to make a pair for my hitch.

 

What is the power/lift rating needed for the linear actuator? I see some for sale around 100 lbs. Is that enough? Anyone know what the factory ones were rated at?

 

 


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#7 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 08:41 AM

So, how do those work??  electric hydraulic or just electric? Just geared to a threaded rod in center under that cover then? I see the link end at top, but is that metal strap links on outside of body that do the lifting part?  Those just don't seem to be all that heavy to me, and was wondering how they hold up, as in how many years and uses, etc? Even a heavy snow blade seems too much for them as I am looking at them. So, also is there a float position? Think would need something to allow a little give in situations. Powered down also I assume if not hydraulic?

 

They are a basic electric actuator with a small motor and gears, no hydro at all.

I'll try to explain, the factory mount was mostly floating. the top pin of the actuator was connected to a small cross pin, it would lift up touch the bottom of a fixed arm and lift, When in down position it would float. There also was a small hole in the fix arm that you could pin the actuator to make it fixed.

Below picture is basic design, but I have seen a slightly different set up from factory.

 

sears electric 3pt.jpg


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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 08:47 AM

Traill95 - Did you fabricate your own lift arms for the 3 pt hitch? How did you get the slight bend in the exact right place? I need to make a pair for my hitch.

 

What is the power/lift rating needed for the linear actuator? I see some for sale around 100 lbs. Is that enough? Anyone know what the factory ones were rated at?

Try this!

3pointHitchMeasurements.jpg


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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:01 AM

Traill95 - Did you fabricate your own lift arms for the 3 pt hitch? How did you get the slight bend in the exact right place? I need to make a pair for my hitch.

 

What is the power/lift rating needed for the linear actuator? I see some for sale around 100 lbs. Is that enough? Anyone know what the factory ones were rated at?

 

I would recommend one for at least a 500 lift, that's static with 1000 max. While your attachment only seems to weigh maybe 100#s or so, when you start looking into geometry of hitch, those weights get multiplied and can overload actuator. I've seen some in the 250#  uses and work fine for a plow, disc, etc, but if adding a rear tiller, box blade with weights, etc, go with a higher lift rting.


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#10 wahoowad OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:34 AM

Great pic KennyP - thanks!


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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:53 AM

Great pic KennyP - thanks!

Glad to help! I think I'll make that a PDF and put it in with the Sears Implement Manuals.


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#12 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 10:07 AM

So, how do those work??  electric hydraulic or just electric? Just geared to a threaded rod in center under that cover then? I see the link end at top, but is that metal strap links on outside of body that do the lifting part?  Those just don't seem to be all that heavy to me, and was wondering how they hold up, as in how many years and uses, etc? Even a heavy snow blade seems too much for them as I am looking at them. So, also is there a float position? Think would need something to allow a little give in situations. Powered down also I assume if not hydraulic?

Electric screw lift powered up and down and stoppable at any position in between.


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 10:10 AM

I made the above pic into a PDF and included the Tiller Lift link. It's uploaded here.


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#14 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 10:11 AM

Traill95 - Did you fabricate your own lift arms for the 3 pt hitch? How did you get the slight bend in the exact right place? I need to make a pair for my hitch.

 

What is the power/lift rating needed for the linear actuator? I see some for sale around 100 lbs. Is that enough? Anyone know what the factory ones were rated at?

I did fabricate the lift arms because the originals were shorter than I needed. I borrowed one off of a friend and used a vise and a lot of heat. I  used the lathe to make the spacers that are on each end.


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#15 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 10:13 AM

I would recommend one for at least a 500 lift, that's static with 1000 max. While your attachment only seems to weigh maybe 100#s or so, when you start looking into geometry of hitch, those weights get multiplied and can overload actuator. I've seen some in the 250#  uses and work fine for a plow, disc, etc, but if adding a rear tiller, box blade with weights, etc, go with a higher lift rting.

I don't know the lift capabilities, My brother stood on the disk and I lifted him and the disk. It lifted his 225lbs and the disk.


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