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Wisconsin S14D Flywheel Good or Bad ? ?


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#1 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 08:36 PM

Is there a way to check the flywheel on  this engine?  Cannot get spark and have replaced everything else.



#2 jabelman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 09:09 PM

I assume the key isn't sheared? or checking the magnets?
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#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2015 - 09:59 PM

The key is good as is the slot in the flywheel.  The magnets felt strong, when screwdriver was placed near them they grabbed it.  Don't know how strong they have to be to get the required power to get spark through the module.



#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 07:59 AM

I'm not familiar to this engine, but could the replacement coil have been put on flipped on the wrong side?  If the magnets in the flywheel firmly grab a screwdriver, I highly doubt that is your problem.


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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 08:23 AM

olcowhand, thanks for the suggestion.  I thought I was putting it on right from the pictures I had but that is a possibility.  If I remember correctly there is only one way it can go on as far as inside or out.  Can be rotated depending on the engine and coil.  Going to take everything off again and start over.  Have had it apart enough now that the flywheel will jump off when I holler at it.


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#6 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 08:54 AM

Coil/flywheel gap correct?


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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:02 AM

Coil/flywheel gap correct?

Not adjustable.  Coil is under the flywheel and held in place with 4 small bolts.



#8 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:04 AM

My mistake


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#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 01:06 PM

My mistake

Not a problem  I appreciate anything that might possibly help.



#10 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 01:40 PM

One suggestion I received was to try a new plug wire.  First thing this morning I made up a new one and tired it.  Nothing.  So started to dismantle the front end again.  This will make the third time.

 

Flywheel.JPG   That is a 10" screwdriver with about 1/2" of the blade contacting the magnet.  That should be enough to charge the coil I would think.

  New Stator.JPG    New Stator-1.JPG   New stator installed.  It can only go on one way and have the wires reach the cast in channel for them.  As I understand it the stators with the charging coils go on rotated counter clockwise 1/4 turn and they have a different flywheel.

 

Stator Wires.JPG    The flywheel did contact the two black ground wires and rubbed the insulation off a little.  Both go to ground so nothing harmed there, but they are moved out of the way now.

 

The module is attached to the side of the flywheel shroud with new screws.  If that has to be grounded it is as the screws bit into new metal when installed.  The shroud is anchored to the block with 5 bolts.  The plug from the stator and from the module will only go together one way, and it locks together.  "Yellow wire goes to the kill switch and red to the + side of the coil.  Really no way to hook it up wrong unless the yellow and red are reversed.

 

Anybody see anything I am missing or have any suggestions?  I am only going through this one more time.  If it don't fire it is getting parted out and the rest is going to the scrap pile.  :deadhorse:    :wallbanging:     :mad2:    :shoot2:    :hitting_self_roller:


Edited by chieffan, November 20, 2015 - 01:44 PM.


#11 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 02:49 PM

Is that the one that you has to be ground out through the switch to get spark? The white wire Should ground out to get spark If I'm reading the manual correctly.

 

Here this is a good manual.

http://gardentractor...icerepair-info/


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#12 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 04:27 PM

Thanks Eric.  
What I have understood, that white wire (which is yellow on the newer systems) went to the ignition switch to ground out the ignition to kill the tractor when the key was in the off position.  That has been updated and Wisconsin recommends using a separate kill switch to prevent any possibility of 12V feeding back into the ignition system.  This is the way I have mine wired, separate push button kill switch.  There are only two wires to hook up, red to the + side of the coil and the yellow to the kill switch.  The stator coils are grounded through a stator mounting screw.  - side of the coil goes to the engine ground.  This is kind of a strange and different type system.  I still prefer the breaker point type systems over these by far.  You can put a $20 2 wire module on in place of the points and have a good solid electronic ignition.  Have done that to several Briggs and Wisconsin's.  Thanks for your suggestion.  I am open to any and all suggestions at this point.


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#13 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 05:48 PM

I can't tell by looking at your pics if there are clearance issues, but can you flip the stator assy over so the wires are exiting out the top, instead of the bottom ?

 

I believe only one of the metal poles is for the trigger coil, so if the unit is mounted upside-down, the wrong pole may be exposed to the flywheel's magnet first.

 

Since the tractor was a non-runner when you got it, one can't assume the parts were installed correctly by the previous owner.

 

 

Looking again at the Wisconsin diagram linked by Eric, it appears your coil may be mounted incorrectly.


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#14 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 06:15 PM

There is a tab protruding from the stator mounting ring.  I have not seen any diagram that shows the orientation of this tab.  Turning the stator ring over would change the position of that tab and the orientation of the trigger coil.  It will mount either way.  I mounted it the way the old one came off but like you said, that may well be wrong. 

 

As all the wires are molded into the coil assembly I cannot tell which coil is for the trigger and which ones are for the power.  There are 3 coil ends protruding above the coil assembly.

 

You mention that you think my coil may be mounted incorrectly.  Are you say that the wire from the - post on the coil is to go to the ignition switch?  If so which terminal?  Or are you saying the wire from the ignition harness is to go to the ignition switch? 

 

The diagrams that I have seen indicate that the trigger coil in the one closest to where the wires exit the actual coils.  Turning the stator over would put the magnets passing the trigger coil first, the the power coils.  Which way is it supposed to be? 

 

Do the magnets produce the power to the module, then the magnets rotate on around till they get to the trigger coil, which would release the stored power to the coil and create the spark?


Edited by chieffan, November 20, 2015 - 06:27 PM.


#15 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 07:53 PM

Doing some searching and found this on MyTractorForum.com

 

Re: Wisconsin S14D stator wiring needed
Membersicon1.png,
Got it fgured out. (two piece ignition). Module (red wire) connected to neg. side on coil. Pos. side of coil is now permanetly grounded. (not grounded through key switch any more to run. This was the part that wasn't clear. Open & closing this ground connection is what could cause a spike to the two-piece ign.) Installed a key switch that grounds the stator white wire (kill wire) when key is off.
This should be a good fix for the next guy. The only thing is you have to replace the key switch to do it this way.
Thanks guy's, Dennis............
user_offline.gif quote.gif

Does it make any difference which side of the coil the red wire goes to?  I had mine red wire to positive and neg to ground.  This gets more confusing all along.






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