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1225 tra12d reseal

1225 tra12d

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#1 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:12 AM

I started getting the 1225 ready for winter, leaked oil like crazy, so I finally got a gasket set to slow down the consumption.  I didn't realize the set I got didn't come with crank seals, the seemed ok so well see how it goes.  Discovered the valve guides are worn pretty bad and it did burn some oil, so a full rebuild is in its future, but this should get me by for now.  A good cleaning of the whole tractor while its a part, and a wiring update will help, winters coming and I blow snow with it, time is not on my side. There was oil and grease an inch thick all over this engine, restored to gas in a bucket for cleaning, felt every cut I had on my hands, but can't argue with the results. Heres some pics

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#2 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:14 AM

A lot of people talk about the external module on these for spark, mine has nothing like that just this one behind the flywheel, is it just a change the made for certain years or what?



#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:47 AM

Your coil has the charging system included with the spark coil.


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#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 12:57 PM

Looks like you already have the flywheel back on, was going to say I have the seals and guides on hand but maybe thats something to tackle next year.

 

 

 Wisconsin never included the seals with their gasket sets


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#5 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 07:27 PM

How does that charge? it only had one wire, going to the coil, Maybe one broke off?  I was scared to clean it with anything so i wiped it off the best I could.  I could have ordered seals but Ill get those when I do a full rebuild. Some things I saw while in there made me think someone else was there and didn't know what they were doing,but if it still leaks a lot at least it won't rust.



#6 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2015 - 01:27 PM

I re-sealed the TRA12 in my 1256, It looked like it as leaking at the shims behind the crank bearing. When I put it together (after setting the end play), I used silicone sealer between the shims and the bearing plate. It sealed up really good.


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#7 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2015 - 07:43 PM

I used Hightac at the shims, and everywhere else but head gasket.  High tac can get messy with little strings of it all over but works good to.



#8 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2015 - 08:03 PM

The gaskets between the magneto plate and the engine block have notches cut in them to allow oil to drain back into the crankcase.

 

There is a small hole in the block, which the notches in the gaskets need to line up with.

 

If too much sealer is used to seal the gaskets, this drain feature is defeated, and oil will be forced past the seal.

 

 If multiple gaskets are used (this is how the crankshaft end-play is adjusted) make sure all the notches align with the drain hole.

 

Also, be certain the drain hole in the magneto plate is not clogged with sealer or muck.


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#9 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2015 - 09:14 PM

I might have a problem then, the notches where at the top when I took apart, so I put them back the same way.  I also popped the fuse in my regulator, was brand new, when I was making a new wiring harness..  Does any one know what amp it is rated for?  Heres a pic of what I'm calling the fus.(where it use to be)

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