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'68' SS12 Carburator help .


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#1 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:07 AM

OK so I just got this SS12 - I was checking it over and it is just pouring fuel out of the carburetor . I mean 'pouring'

My problem is ... I don't even know what kind of motor this .

I am willing to learn . If anyone can point me in the right direction - what carb kit - schematics - things I should know- it would be helpful . Thanks

002.JPG 003.JPG

 



#2 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:28 AM

Tecumseh HH120

 

page 31-33 for carb troubleshooting

http://gardentractor...hh120-overhaul/

 

Page 11 for parts breakdown

http://gardentractor...-12hp-tecumseh/


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#3 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 11:52 AM

Thanks a lot EricFromPa - that is exactly what I was looking for !! I can visualize what needs to be done .

I have never done any carb. work ...ever . This is a big help.



#4 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 12:36 PM

If you need any more help I do alot of tecumseh rebuilds , I can maybe help you if you run into anything else, I would imagine right now that your float is not closing
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#5 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 01:22 PM

Thanks Gary - I think it sat so long the gasket dried up and cracked , until I open it up can't be sure - when buy into something and don't know any history it is hard to say. . So much is flowing I can't pinpoint the leaky spot.

Like when I bought my house and flushed the toilet the first time. Whoosh . Sat for so long the seals dried up and shrank ...uh shrunked? .



#6 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:13 PM

If your going to change the gasket clean it too. Take it off and take the main jet and clean it . It has a big hole and a really small hole that is on the side of the jet that is hard to see. Those carbs are really finicky if they are not super clean they will surge. The idle screw is on the left side take it out and clean the hole. There is an idle circuit in the casting above it and it needs to be really clean also sometimes you have to soak them andclean them 3 or 4 times to get them right. Blow it all out with compressed air. The gasket will be about 4 bucks . If I have trouble getting them clean I get them off eBay the whOle carb brand new for about 20 bucks
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#7 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:16 PM

Do not blow the Needle valve out with compressed air.

It should have a small Rubber seat in it that will go flying out if you do.You'll never find the little bugger if you blow it out.

 

Short bursts of Carb cleaner on that part will be fine.

 

 

If the emulsion tube looks like the one on the left,you can not re-use it with out modifying it.Once removed the small Idle circuit hole (small hole where the threads are) will not line up with the corresponding hole in the carb.

 

 

post-2135-0-53395900-1430585734.jpg

 

 

You can mod it if you need to by cutting a groove (JUST slightly deeper that the threads) with a dremel or Hacksaw The whole way around.Then clean the small hole out with a small burred torch tip cleaning kit.

 

I've done a few of them with a good sharp hack saw.Just go slow and it will work just fine.


Edited by EricFromPa, November 15, 2015 - 02:42 PM.

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#8 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:20 PM

You get a new seat with the float bowl gasket they usually won't blow out any way you have to pull them out

#9 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:29 PM

When you take the needle out put a small amount of toothpaste on a q tip and put it in the hole and spin it that will polish it a little bit to make the needle slide up and down good. Just make sure to rinse it out you can do it by hand or chuck the q tip in a battery drill

Edited by Gary yz, November 15, 2015 - 02:30 PM.

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#10 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:49 PM

You get a new seat with the float bowl gasket they usually won't blow out any way you have to pull them out

 

 

They get rock hard over time and tend to shrink a bit.My air is usually set between 80 and 120psi and it blows them out every time.I've blown them out a couple dozen times and never found them again. :rolling:

 

I rebuild alot of these old Walbro carbs.


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#11 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 02:56 PM

Yes they do get hard, if he is going to take the time to clean it he should change it . Half the time I just buy a new one it's only a cpl dollars more than buying gaskets and a can of carb cleaner . I have had pretty good luck with the ones on ebay for 15 to 20 bucks. I keep a few here on stock for people's mowers that i repair. Did you ever see them Eric?
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#12 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 04:26 PM

carb kit.jpg

So does this look like the right kit that I should get?



#13 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 04:31 PM

Yes it does , that small piece of rubber that is tan color that looks like a donut is the needle seat
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#14 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 05:09 PM

Yes they do get hard, if he is going to take the time to clean it he should change it . Half the time I just buy a new one it's only a cpl dollars more than buying gaskets and a can of carb cleaner . I have had pretty good luck with the ones on ebay for 15 to 20 bucks. I keep a few here on stock for people's mowers that i repair. Did you ever see them Eric?

 

 

Yep those are the ones I use if I can't get the Kit locally.My local supplier is horrible on resupplying stuff like that.


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#15 Tecumseh power OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2015 - 05:41 PM

Do not blow the Needle valve out with compressed air.
It should have a small Rubber seat in it that will go flying out if you do.You'll never find the little bugger if you blow it out.

Short bursts of Carb cleaner on that part will be fine.


If the emulsion tube looks like the one on the left,you can not re-use it with out modifying it.Once removed the small Idle circuit hole (small hole where the threads are) will not line up with the corresponding hole in the carb.



attachicon.gifpost-2135-0-53395900-1430585734.jpg


You can mod it if you need to by cutting a groove (JUST slightly deeper that the threads) with a dremel or Hacksaw The whole way around.Then clean the small hole out with a small burred torch tip cleaning kit.

I've done a few of them with a good sharp hack saw.Just go slow and it will work just fine.

I always wondered if you could switch them out with the newer plastic ones, have you ever tried that probably wouldn't seal on the treads tho

Edited by Gary yz, November 15, 2015 - 05:59 PM.





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