Garden Tractor Forums banner

Model 49 on the back of 140...adding a light bar too...

3K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  michael.kitko 
#1 ·
I am taking a break from doing the articulated tractor to do a bit of getting ready for winter work. I have this 140 and a mounting plate for a 33 tiller. I am gonna do a bit of cutting and welding to make it so the 49 Thrower can mount off the back and be driven by the modified mount. The only thing that might be changed on the 49 is the pulley. I am also going to tackle a light bar add-on. The goal is to have the Thrower mounted on the back and the 54 blade up front. There is a YouTube video where this has been done, but no documentation. I am gonna do the build documentation here.

Side end goal is to make the mount have a set of detachable arms and a 2000 RPM style belt-driven, lever-opetated PTO for mounting a rear finish mower this summer. The "Beast" is probably not gonna make it through next summer and I will need a back up.
 
#4 ·
Well, today, I went to pull the pulley and ran into the first issue. The pulley on the 49 was stuck as all get out. Could not budge the thing. I soaked it in PB Blaster after pulling one of the set screws. The other was stripped out and needed to be drilled out. Well, after the better part of a couple hours, the pulley was finally off. Luckily, the shaft to the 49 was not injured or damaged. Well, besides a little nick, where I was a bit deeper than I should have been. The shaft is perfectly serviceable though. Anyways, I also got the mount cut apart and did some measurements. Low and behold, I thought this was gonna be a quick mount build. Boy, was I wrong. I tacked up the one side and to my surprise, the shaft didn't line up like I thought it would. So, I got angry, got out my BFH and busted it apart. I then left in a mood and went upstairs for a shower. Some of the best ideas come to me after doing some stupid stuff. It hit me, why did I have to break those tacks, I could use pillow block bearings and run the shaft a bit lower for the blower and then when summer comes, take those bearing out and put the PTO shaft in. Anyways, more to follow.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Side note, just found a guy on YouTube that did this same thing to a 400...
 
#6 ·
Always more to some thing than one thinks at the start. That always happens to me. I bought a 49 thrower last weekend. Hooked it to my 140. All seemed fine until I went to put the belt on. Pulleys did not line up. !!!!! So, I got the pulley of the thrower, which went easier than I figured, and had to weld am extension on the pulley. It now lines up and works good.

I am normally not very good at figuring out those three capital things like BFH, or what ever, but got that one fairly quick. Noel

Any link to the 400 with rear blower.?
 
  • Like
Reactions: michael.kitko
#7 ·
Link to the 400 video...

 
#8 ·
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the weight of the 49...
 
#9 ·
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the weight of the 49...
IIRC just over 200 lbs More than I want to handle myself and perfect fit on a Harbor Freight moving dolly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: michael.kitko
#10 ·
After work, I took a little time to bend up the 1/4" x 1 1/2" steel for the light bracket. Now, I am not too sure on how I am gonna mount the lights. Their holders only allow them to go to 90° from where the bracket bolts up. I am thinking a spacer at an angle or modifying the bracket that came with them. The original idea was to mount them on the top of the light bar. Well, I am gonna do a bit of thinking on it and get going.

Road surface Asphalt Composite material Concrete Font
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: propane1
#11 ·
I have now drilled some holes to give the lights some homes to be mounted to. I also, drilled the holes for the seat mounting points, where the bar is attaching under the seat. I took out the bolts in the seat to look at how long they were, and realized I have to add about 1/4". Since I don't want to go and buy new bolts, I am just gonna take some left over all thread I have and make some studs for mounting the bar to the seat.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: propane1
#12 ·
Cut the angle iron for the stickers to stick to and drilled some holes to mount it. Did the mounting of the angle iron pieces and added the studs to the seat. I then mounted up the bar on the tractor and here are some pictures of that. Not too sure about the look. I might flip the lights to the bottom to see what that is like. I am also considering bending it up a bit more and possibly even cutting the ends to flip them. Any suggestions?

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas


Tire Wheel Bicycle handlebar Sports equipment Vehicle
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Here are the two options I am up against. Either under or over the mounting bar. I am going to pull the bar and bend it some more, because I don't like how long it is. I do have some more space to get it higher and more inward. Another thing to consider is if I should modify the bends at the end. Either cut them off and weld them on at a different spot or completely flip them. Not sure. Again, I am open to suggestions.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
I would have those lights, closer to the seat and at fender level. I can see getting fetched in them trying to get on and off. And any body walking by will get into them. Mount the rear ones close to the sides and top of the seat, and front ones at the front some where. Better lighting, with no glare from the lights in your eyes. Mount the front lights on the plow bracket maybe. Don't mean to upset your idea, just my thoughts. Noel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: michael.kitko
#16 ·
I finally got to modifying the bracket some. It is now much shorter and has some new brackets. I moved it down and the light mounts have been moved inward. After several years with this tractor I finally have working rear red marker lamps. They are LED of course and look amazing. Now, the goal is to get the tabs welded to the light bar and get it mounted tomorrow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: propane1
#17 ·
Don't mean to upset your idea, just my thoughts. Noel.
Noel, I am a pretty hard guy to upset. Thank you for your input. I am going to move them back and inward. I am still gonna try mounting the front facing ones on the bar. If they do glare, which is a good point, then I am gonna move them like you said to. Thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: propane1
#18 ·
Hydraulic angle for the blade is complete. The bolts are all tight and it moves from side to side and all the lines are clear of any hang ups. Also, got the plates welded on and ground the welds smooth so you can't see that it was cut and shortened. Mounted the electronics box mount and started mounting switches in it. Not sure on what to do with the wires yet. Anyways, here are a couple photos.

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood


Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive tire Gas Engineering
 

Attachments

#19 ·
The box is all wired up and all three switches are installed. The cables are all almost connected. I only need to do two more crimp connections and then wire in some mains running from the tractor start switch to some quick disconnects. Then off to the aux mount for the flasher and paint it up. Then start on the snowblower mount, I might actually make it before snow falls. Unfortunately, gotta pick up some gas for the welder, doing that tomorrow.
 
#20 ·
So, I bought one of those flashy lights off Amazon. I have had it for about 2 weeks now and I am less than impressed. The lens was just too clear and you could see every individual light and it was too white. Also, way huge. I did like the flashing and rotating pattern. Well, moving on, I was wandering through Wally World and found a cheap other blinky light. Bought it and took it home. The lense is perfect, unfortunately, that is all. So after some thinking, I took the innards out of the Amazon light and put them in the Wally World light. Drastic improvement and way cheaper than the others I was looking at.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alc and propane1
#21 ·
Attached the light bar and ran some wires today and after the battery was hooked back up, I ran through all the switches. Everything works fine. Now, I just need to figure out how to point the lights more downward. The cheapies I bought only go to a little past 90°. I need the lights to go a wee bit lower.
 
  • Like
Reactions: propane1
#22 ·
Just a picture...

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Fender
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: propane1 and KennyP
#24 ·
Yesterday, I got the light bar pulled and did a quick chop and mount of a scrap piece of metal to see if that was a viable solution to getting the lights tipped lower. Well, I am happy to say, I think it will work fine, so now they are welded on and ready to be ground flat. Now all that needs done is a bit of hole drilling and painting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: propane1 and Alc
#25 ·
Got it ground smooth and the holes drilled today. Now, it is drying from two quick coats of paint.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top