11 replies to this topic

[Phluphy]

Put it on day before yesterday.  Had to use a strap to get the bead to catch and hold air. Ran it up to around 15#, wasn't too careful about releasing strap, it gave a finger a heck of a rap. Eh, lesson learned there.

Problem is, it has been holding air, 20+ pounds, have been all over the property with it and the spot adjacent to where the stem comes into the rim is still not seated.

How much pressure do I dare use to seat this thing? And, no, I'm not holding anyone liable for suggestions made. Think I should have picked up a can of either today while in town, that seems to be a trick that works.  Won't have another ride to town for 2 weeks so have to do the best with what is available.

And I have used liquid dish detergent on it...tire is cleaner than dishes.  :)

 

[craftsmanmowerfreak]

go get murphys oil soap from dollar store. and break tire back down on that side and try that. also make sure rim has NO RUST. rust will make it harder to slip over the rib in rim

[MH81]

The ether is for getting it where it won't leak, not so much bead setting... Same as the strap trick, just scarier.

Try this first. Take tire off and start bouncing it with the bad area in the 12:00 position.

Hopefully, you'll hear:
Boing, boing, boing, boing, Boing, boing, boing, boing, Boing, boing, boing, boing, THWAP!

Just watch you don't have a digit in there when it snaps. If it doesn't go in a minute, slowly rotate the tire while you do it and then go again with it in the 12:00 position.

[wvbuzzmaster]

I've had tires that refused to seat and I always use tubes in my tires. Tires have two air pressure ratings, operating, and seating. Seating pressure is usually 10 to 15 psi higher than operating pressure. Example I have had was a few tires with rated seating pressures around 28 psi that I inflated all the way up to 40 psi and still struggled using the bouncing teqnique Alan described. My tires are new tubeless 4 or 6 ply tires with new tubes, so a little brave I guess, but not stupid. I usually end up deflating and reinflating 6 times on one tire while unseating the troublesome side of the tire to try and cheat what seats first when airing up. The higher the air pressure the more violent sounding the "thwap!" is when you finally succeed. Use caution, be careful, and never stand in front of the bead when trying to seat it (I know, old split rim rule, but still better safe than sorry).

Edited by wvbuzzmaster, November 12, 2015 - 12:44 AM.

[shorty]

I had a set that didn't fully seat. I ran them like that several days with a higher psi. With the driving, they slowly seated themselves.

[KC9KAS]

I just read where someone suggested using "personal lubricant" on the tire to get it to seat.

Yes, I am talking about Kentucky Jelly....Kentucky...KY.....you get it!

[KennyP]

I do many things getting beads to seat. I have a tub of chopped up bar soap (with water) that I will smear around the bead and the wheel seat as a lubricant. For some, I set the pressure around 10-12 lbs. and use a 4 lb. hammer on the side wall to get it to 'pop' on up. Good old dish soap works well too. For beads that seat, but still leak, I have a can of the black bead sealer.

[petrj6]

     Axle grease, I have used it for years on all my tires.  grease both bead seats before you put the tire on the rim then air it up, makes everything easier all the way around and helps the tire to stay seated.  I have a friend who uses waste oil with good success.

                                            Pete

[CanadianHobbyFarmer]

I started using Windex on the beads to get then to seat and it works great. I got the tip from an article in Circle Track magazine. I read the article many tears ago, but as I recall, some wheel manufacturers had added an extra lip to the inside of the bead area to help keep the beads seated with the low air pressure and high sidewall loads encountered in dirt track racing. Many of the teams were using excessive air pressure to get the bead over the inner lip. If I remember correctly, both wheel and Tire manufacturers were interviewed for tips to mount tires on these type rims safely. I use it when breaking down and mounting tires as well, it makes the rubber slide much easier over the bar on my manual tire changer.

 

Jim

[Phluphy]

I had a set that didn't fully seat. I ran them like that several days with a higher psi. With the driving, they slowly seated themselves.

Going this route first. Have several logs to move and thinking the torque and extra weight will cause it to give "just that much" to git er done. Then back to normal pressure.

Thanks

And it worked!  All good.

Edited by Phluphy, November 12, 2015 - 05:02 PM.

[Phluphy]

The ether is for getting it where it won't leak, not so much bead setting... Same as the strap trick, just scarier.

Try this first. Take tire off and start bouncing it with the bad area in the 12:00 position.

Hopefully, you'll hear:
Boing, boing, boing, boing, Boing, boing, boing, boing, Boing, boing, boing, boing, THWAP!

Just watch you don't have a digit in there when it snaps. If it doesn't go in a minute, slowly rotate the tire while you do it and then go again with it in the 12:00 position.

This will be the second thing I do, albeit I bounced the thing several times when first mounted. Eh, perhaps the second time.  Thanks

 

I just read where someone suggested using "personal lubricant" on the tire to get it to seat.

Yes, I am talking about Kentucky Jelly....Kentucky...KY.....you get it!

Lol, read that one myself...Thanks

[TAHOE]

     Axle grease, I have used it for years on all my tires.  grease both bead seats before you put the tire on the rim then air it up, makes everything easier all the way around and helps the tire to stay seated.  I have a friend who uses waste oil with good success.

                                            Pete

 

Yep, done that trick many times. My BIL showed me some years back in his shop he ran. He had a corroded bead on an aluminum rims, grease sealed it right up.