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bolens g14

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#1 JayWest OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 10:56 PM

I'm going to try and resurrect my Bolens G14. This tractor has some nostalgia for me, it was my dads and I was "forced" (it was a joy) to cut the grass around the farmhouse with it growing up. He gave it to me about 25 years ago, and I used it to cut the grass at my house in st. louis for years. About 20 years ago, something went wrong with the engine - I don't recall what - and a friend said he'd rebuild the engine. He took so long doing it that I hired a lawn service. When he finally gave it back to me I parked it in the basement and haven't touched it for 20 years.

 

Fast forward to the present - a few years back I bought 40 acres in the country with a John Deere 830 and a bobcat. The 830 is a great "full size" tractor and I use it to brushhog around the house but it just can't get close to the house (lots of decks). I remembered the forlorn G14 sitting in the basement. I was about to pitch it but nostalgia overtook me. One of my hobbies is restoring antique computers, so I figured I'd give the same love to the G14. It appears the G14 has something of a "cult following", so I suspect I can get advice here!

 

My G14 came with a 42" lawn mower deck, the hydraulic option, 3 point hitch, a tiller that hooks to the pto shaft, a snow plow, a single blade disc plow, a wagon, and "a V-shaped thing with about 8 large spikes". When I first got it, I also acquired a dethatcher and an aerator (3rd party) which I still have. I have all the original manuals for the G14 as well as each implement (and the HH-140 engine).

 

So when I dug out around the tractor in the basement so I could see it, I saw both front tires were completely flat and crushed. The walls were cracked on them too. Back tires were AOK. No way I could easily roll it out of the basement, so I bought two new front tires, removed the freewheeling pin, and turned the dial on the back wheel out so it would roll. I rolled it out of the basement and got it on a trailer, so I can take it to my new farm and make the restoration "a winter project in the barn".

 

Pictures attached as it sits on the trailer waiting to go to the farm tomorrow.

 

My plan is to drain/clean the gas tank, replace any hoses (fuel line, etc.) as they are probably dryrotted, new fuel filter, new air filter, and flush out the engine and get new oil in it. I'll likely replace all the wiring and build new harnesses, Caig De-Oxit all the electrical contacts, and (lightly) powerwash the thing. New battery for sure.

 

So after the above, can anyone offer advice on anything I should inspect closely or just do "as a matter of course" before trying to start? I want this thing to run forever. If I can get it running well, then it will get a new paint job, new decals, etc.

 

Any thoughts/advice are very much appreciated!

 

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#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 05:02 AM

Wow, I was expecting something a bit worse for the wear. That is in great shape cosmetically!
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#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 06:14 AM

Welcome to GTTalk !   Great story about your tractor


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#4 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 07:09 AM

NICE looking G14 :thumbs:  :thumbs: :thumbs:  

 

You said:

...  a single blade disc plow, a wagon, and "a V-shaped thing with about 8 large spikes". ...

 

The "V-Shaped thing" sounds like a cultivator.

 

You also mentioned a DISK plow?  I'm not aware of a disk plow for a GT. All I've ever seen have been moldboard plows. How about some pics of that.

 

Also the hitch.  Are you sure it's a 3-pt and not a sleeve hitch.  Pics of that would be nice too.


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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 07:26 AM

Lot of times a Disc that can be adjusted to a "V" shape are called disc plows.  My guess is a Brinly disc.



#6 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 08:04 AM

Welcome to GTT :wave:

 

That tractor is in good shape for its age!

 

I would pull the spark plug and pour a ounce  of oil down the plug hole , that will allow things to be lubed before you attempt to turn the engine over.


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#7 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 08:05 AM

:welcometogttalk:


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#8 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 08:15 AM

Welcome to GTT. You have a very nice heirloom tractor(in the same family since new). Sounds like you are pretty squared away with your plans. One suggestion is that the engine has a special(and expensive) ignition system. Take a little time to study it and besure that you are not going to damage it when you rewire. Xerox the original manuals and put the originals away. Use the copies for when you are working on it. When you need more detailed info, checkout our Manuals Section. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, November 05, 2015 - 08:16 AM.

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#9 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 09:13 AM

Welcome aboard,your tractor looks very nice for the age,you got the bases covered,I agree with Bolens 1000,put a little oil in the cylinder,helps lube it,its gonna smoke pretty good when it fires but why are you going to rewire it,have the critters got to the harness ?,I would drop the deck,and check the deck belt and bearings before you turn on the deck

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, November 05, 2015 - 09:15 AM.

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#10 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 11:23 AM

Nice Machine there,, O  and welcome aboard...  All good recommendations there.  I too would leave the elec. alone unless damaged..  Once you get it running,, Check the manuals for zerks and X amount of hours between lubes.. and then do them ALL.. Then,, you can keep a better log on what and when things need to be done ..


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#11 JayWest OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 01:11 PM

Thanks for the tips folks!! The tractor made the trip 60 miles to the barn safely, despite a little rain while unloading. Is it a little psychotic to wipe the tractor down with a bath towel cause it got wet? *grin*

 

As to the wiring - electronics (repairing/running antique computers) is my hobby, so for me it is trivial to rewire the whole thing with all new wire and connectors. Perhaps it is just too much of a carryover from the computer hobby - where I strive to have "museum/factoryNew" condition when done, but when I lift the cover I see a lot of rust/corrosion on all the wire connections behind the dash. I'm well versed in ways to make that "as new". I see lots of rust on the exposed ends of the wires where they are crimped to the spade plugs, and some of the wires have the tell-tale "whiteness" that shows the insulation is dry and will crack, etc. Since I'm going for "as new" condition - I'd just build all new wiring harnesses as a matter of course whether it needs it or not. Probably overboard, but I'm newly semi-retired and looking for stuff to do :) I do appreciate the tip on the unique/expensive nature of the ignition system, and will review the schematics/wiringDiagrams very carefully. From a quick glance, the only thing I'm really concerned about being costly would be if there's a problem with the starter or the electronic ignition module. Those would probably be pretty steep $-wise.

 

Manuals - I know I had all the original manuals for the tractor, engine, and every implement. I had put them all in a binder. I have not yet located that binder, but I am pretty certain it is around and will show up. As a safety-net, I downloaded every appropriate manual from online (thanks for that resource!!!).

 

As to the implements...

 

The "single disc plow" i determined by googling appears to be what Tractorholic mentioned, a moldboard plow. Picture attached.

 

The "V-shaped thing"... Tractorholic mentioned "cultivator", and that rings a bell I think. Picture attached so we can be sure.

 

The 3-point hitch (I think that is what it is, not sure)... that part I didn't see with the tractor when excavating it from the basement, but I believe it's down there in a area that needs to be unearthed still, that will happen in a few weeks. Just from 20 year old memory, I think that was a brinley-hardy thing as well. I remember the main metal piece was basically a U shape, and there was a tube on one side with a bar through it that went up to the tractor, I'd assume attaching to the hydraulic lift. It was painted beige. As soon as I dig out that pile, I'll see if it's still there - sure hope it didn't get lost over the years.

 

As to condition: I see many spots of surface rust. Mostly on the black cowlings and various bars, but some on the hood and dash "bezel" as well. That will not stand - I'll be repainting (probably the entire thing). But I have to make sure it's mechanically ok (engine) before sinking that time & money in to it. I just got a metal brake, so may just make a new cowling for it (the rear black cover, not the white "top" cover. I suspect that over the years bits and pieces (various flat metal bars with holes or pins that were only for certain implements) may have gone missing. If so, I'll try to buy them but if not available I'll make them. One thing that I do remember for sure is that the hydraulic pump was dead, no clue exactly what was wrong with it. But that is one part I'd really want to get working again. When I get there, hopefully folks can walk me through that as I am not at all familiar with working on those.

 

I 'spose it's too much to ask for seal/gasket kits to still be available?

 

Again, thanks for the warm welcome and the advice!

 

J

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#12 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 01:32 PM

Thanks for the tips folks!! The tractor made the trip 60 miles to the barn safely, despite a little rain while unloading. Is it a little psychotic to wipe the tractor down with a bath towel cause it got wet? *grin*

 

As to the wiring - electronics (repairing/running antique computers) is my hobby, so for me it is trivial to rewire the whole thing with all new wire and connectors. Perhaps it is just too much of a carryover from the computer hobby - where I strive to have "museum/factoryNew" condition when done, but when I lift the cover I see a lot of rust/corrosion on all the wire connections behind the dash. I'm well versed in ways to make that "as new". I see lots of rust on the exposed ends of the wires where they are crimped to the spade plugs, and some of the wires have the tell-tale "whiteness" that shows the insulation is dry and will crack, etc. Since I'm going for "as new" condition - I'd just build all new wiring harnesses as a matter of course whether it needs it or not. Probably overboard, but I'm newly semi-retired and looking for stuff to do :) I do appreciate the tip on the unique/expensive nature of the ignition system, and will review the schematics/wiringDiagrams very carefully. From a quick glance, the only thing I'm really concerned about being costly would be if there's a problem with the starter or the electronic ignition module. Those would probably be pretty steep $-wise.

 

Manuals - I know I had all the original manuals for the tractor, engine, and every implement. I had put them all in a binder. I have not yet located that binder, but I am pretty certain it is around and will show up. As a safety-net, I downloaded every appropriate manual from online (thanks for that resource!!!).

 

As to the implements...

 

The "single disc plow" i determined by googling appears to be what Tractorholic mentioned, a moldboard plow. Picture attached.

 

The "V-shaped thing"... Tractorholic mentioned "cultivator", and that rings a bell I think. Picture attached so we can be sure.

 

The 3-point hitch (I think that is what it is, not sure)... that part I didn't see with the tractor when excavating it from the basement, but I believe it's down there in a area that needs to be unearthed still, that will happen in a few weeks. Just from 20 year old memory, I think that was a brinley-hardy thing as well. I remember the main metal piece was basically a U shape, and there was a tube on one side with a bar through it that went up to the tractor, I'd assume attaching to the hydraulic lift. It was painted beige. As soon as I dig out that pile, I'll see if it's still there - sure hope it didn't get lost over the years.

 

As to condition: I see many spots of surface rust. Mostly on the black cowlings and various bars, but some on the hood and dash "bezel" as well. That will not stand - I'll be repainting (probably the entire thing). But I have to make sure it's mechanically ok (engine) before sinking that time & money in to it. I just got a metal brake, so may just make a new cowling for it (the rear black cover, not the white "top" cover. I suspect that over the years bits and pieces (various flat metal bars with holes or pins that were only for certain implements) may have gone missing. If so, I'll try to buy them but if not available I'll make them. One thing that I do remember for sure is that the hydraulic pump was dead, no clue exactly what was wrong with it. But that is one part I'd really want to get working again. When I get there, hopefully folks can walk me through that as I am not at all familiar with working on those.

 

I 'spose it's too much to ask for seal/gasket kits to still be available?

 

 

 

Check our Sponsors' sites. I think one of them was making the kits. Good Luck, Rick



#13 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 03:46 PM

Love the story!



#14 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 05:38 PM

 

 

I 'spose it's too much to ask for seal/gasket kits to still be available?

 

Again, thanks for the warm welcome and the advice!

 

 

 

Sounds like you off to a good start with the initial inspection

 

There's still parts out there for these, I actually just brought back the NLA top gaskets for the trans a month or so ago and stock all fresh replacement seals if needed for these.

 

Looking forward to seeing you get it running!



#15 CanadianHobbyFarmer ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 07:09 PM

The tractor looks to be in great shape, like Cat, I was expecting it to look much worse from your original description. The "v-shaped unit" is a cultivator. They are usually assembled with the hitch at the other end and the sweeps facing the other way as well. I have no idea if it will work assembled like that or not. The other unit is a moldboard plow (the disk piece on it is reffered to as a coulter) and the hitch on that one is on incorrectly for sure. The rear bolt on the hitch should be through the upper hole. Both units fit a sleeve hitch, which sounds like the hitch system you described

 

Here are some pictures to show what I am describing. The first one is my cultivator, with the hitch on the other end. Yours is the same model, it may work just fine as it is set up, but I have usually seen them set up like mine. Go ahead and try it like that, worst thing that can happen is it doesn't work, you won't hurt anything. The second picture is of my plow and you can see (hopefully, I took that picture in a dark shed) the difference in how the hitch is attached. Again, trying to run it like that won't damage anything, but the point will not dig into the ground. The third picture is of my home built sleeve hitch. I am guessing yours looks something like that? Sorry, I don't seem to have any pictures of it on the tractor.

 

Hopefully this is of some help to you, Jim

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Edited by CanadianHobbyFarmer, November 05, 2015 - 07:16 PM.

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