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New to this site and a new tractor. Lots of questions


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#1 RBOWKER OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 10:18 AM

Hi, My name is Bob and I'm new to the site and just got this new tractor.
I'm curious to find about the loader that came on this thing. Anyone recognize it and where can I get a wider bucket?
Also, the K321 is clacking internally under light load. From what I read, it's probably the counterweights. Question is, what's the easiest way to remove the motor from this tractor?

Thanks Bob
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#2 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 10:49 AM

Hi Bob, welcome to the group and to the Power King world, looks like a PK factory loader and I've not seen larger buckets so if that's what you want, you'll have to fabricate one, curious whats the reason for a larger bucket? As for the engine do you know if it has been overhauled and if it was its a common practice to leave the balance gears out and with them removed there is a clacking / knock sound the engine will make, I just OH'd a 14hp in my PK and left the balance gears out and mine has a clacking / knock sound but it runs good and has great power. To remove the engine you remove the hood and grill etc remove the dash and the bolts in the bell housing the 4 engine mount bolts, the throttle and choke cable and wiring then the engine should slide forward with the hods head attached to the engine.

But before I removed the engine I"d check it out more this sound is sometimes referred to as the Kohler knock also.


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 10:51 AM

Welcome to GTT. That is a nice tractor. You can download 3 manuals per day from our Manuals Section. I would more suspect your connecting rod. DO NOT RUN THAT ENGINE! It will be easier and cheaper to rebuild it if it hasn't blown.

 

Wider buckets can be a problem in that you can more easily over load the machine and damage it. Watch CL for ads. Fortunately, there seems to be alot of PKs in southern new england. Good Luck, Rick



#4 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 11:17 AM

:welcometogttalk:



#5 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 11:24 AM

Welcome, yes that is the standard dirt bucket for these if you wish to work ground. There was a wider "Loose Material" bucket say for sand, light items and snow that was wider, but it doesn't work so well for dirt use. Too big. Small buckets also had teetth option, i you have those to dig into ground, won't dig w/out them in sod or hard dirt. Knocking not good,best be checking into that. Rods can get weak and make noise before blowing too, then when it goes BANG, much damage!  As noted all the front sheet metal comes off and easiest to seperate at the bellhousing  where the clutch lever goes into it, about 8 small bolts I think. Engine bolts (four) out of the base at the angle iron and the little items like controls and wiring and it should all come forward to pull off the trans front shaft, then lift up and out. If you have metal sticking up in front of engine to mount the grill on, sometimes you need to tilt engine 45* to get past those to clear the trans shaft. Best to have an engine lift or something tied to your garage rafters to lift all this up, it IS Heavy. Getting the clutch flywheel off is one of hardest things after that. Plenty of postings on procedures for that here, don't pry on or force it, it will break easy. If you should need crank turned, you can get .010 rods stock, or many engine racers on epay offer .o20 rods which Kohler does not, and they work fine. Do the piston and rings and seals and such. Best deals are on epay for the Whole kit with parts and gasket kits. Some have  rods, some have rods/pistons, some have no rod, only rings and etc. Have to check contents when looking. Best to have it measured to see if needs boring BEFORE ordering parts, so you can get correct items. Get a Kohler engine manual or off the Kohler site for free. It tells you what do do for tear-down, and checking and assembly of the engine, very easy to follow.  These are great tractors, easy to work on, and have good power to pull. Welcome and be seeing you here. Check the older postings.


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#6 oldedeeres OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 12:53 PM

Hi Bob, welcome to the forum.



#7 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 01:24 PM

:welcometogttalk:



#8 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 05:52 PM

Hello and welcome  :wave:



#9 RBOWKER OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:53 PM

Hey guys thanks for the welcome and the help.

I'm going to pull the engine this week and have a look. I wasn't sure where to separate the motor, the 8 bolts near the clutch pedal or the 4 right behind engine.
I will let you know.

As for the bucket, I just think the bucket should be at least as wide as the tread width.
The bucket it came with has the teeth and digs pretty well, but as I go forward pushing dirt the front wheels start riding on top of un-dug dirt (sound right lol)

#10 farmer john OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 08:26 PM

HI BOB !!!!!! the first thing you need to know is we are not like AA, we all have a problem (not enough tractors) so run out get a few more and you'll fit right in with the rest of us, sit back and enjoy the site, I have spent many enjoyable hours here, great bunch of very knowledgeable people, always ready to help and pull the occasional fast one on you,
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#11 PowerKingCharles OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2015 - 07:35 AM

Hi Bob, Welcome to Garden Tractor Talk. I have a power king with a custom built loader with a wider bucket (I think). If the picture actually attaches you can see it. The biggest problem I have with it is trying to steer it. I'd like to remount a centered power steering unit on it from a plastic body, but have yet to find one close to home Enjoy!!

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#12 RBOWKER OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2015 - 02:10 PM

That's a nice loader.

My news is not good. Took it all apart and found a cracked cylinder, junk piston, and beat up rod. It appears that someone tried to hone it and put a new piston on the old rod and then ran it. The bearings it both counterweights are toast also.

Now what?
What's easiest repower on these?

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#13 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2015 - 08:45 AM

The 14hp Kohler is one of best engines they used and can be found still. You CAN use 12 or 16's too and be bolt-in if they were available. Might have to watch if Battery ignition with points or the Mag type so no changes have to be made on your tractor. Otherwise might need key switch and some other things wired different to change. Some also want that ridge on pto side that has the bellhousing resting on it. I have used w/out myself. The bolt holes should be in all engine blocks for the mounting of that. You don't mention if you took off the clutch flywheel and bellhousing.  Flywheel needs to come off first and is the hardest item to get off most times as it is rusted to the crank. At times you need to remove the bellhouse bolts, but can't slip over clutch, just to work on getting the flywheel part off. SO, what did you do? and did it go easy? 



#14 RBOWKER OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2015 - 06:31 AM


Do any other brands have the same bolt pattern for the bell?

Does anyone have a good used block I can rebuild?

As for the flywheel, I used a blunt end chisel in a snap-on pneumatic gun.
Ran the chisel down the center of flywheel (against crank) while prying against pulley through opening in bell housing.
Worked awesome !
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#15 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2015 - 06:38 AM

That  stinks , :(  Are PKs hard to come by near you ?   Around me you can find running rough looking ones under $600 ,  it's always nice to have a parts machine  . Here's one example

 

 

http://southjersey.c...5290060277.html


Edited by Alc, November 09, 2015 - 06:42 AM.





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