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Motor For 1476


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#1 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 03:25 PM

I have a 1476 that has the original Wisconsin engine.  Problem is no spark.  Not having any luck getting the test information for the electronic ignition module or stator.  Color code from the manual don't match what I have.  Thinking if I have to replace the entire ignition system, module, stator and coil, it may be cheaper to replace the engine.  So, - what engines will mount in the large frame without major modifications?  OR- by chance does anyone have the ignition parts off a blown S14D Wisconsin they would part with?



#2 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 04:13 PM

Have you tried using a meter to check your ignition or just checked for spark by holding the plug to the block? Could be a bad plug or coil, what type of ignition is it, battery, or solid state? Usually you can use a multi meter to check each component and only need to replace the bad part.

#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Have you tried using a meter to check your ignition or just checked for spark by holding the plug to the block? Could be a bad plug or coil, what type of ignition is it, battery, or solid state? Usually you can use a multi meter to check each component and only need to replace the bad part.

Used a spark checker with a new plug properly gaped at .030.  It has electronic ignition module mounted on the side of flywheel cover.  I have no ida which regulator module it is, YJ-68 or YJ-60.  Could also be a YJ-69.  Different modules are to give different reading between the wires.  Mine has white, black and blue wires.  None of the instructions list a blue wire and one cannot assume the blue wire is the other black they refer to.

 

The stator in this engine is for ignition only.  The stator instruction I believe are for the ignition AND charging system.  Again the manual listed a Red, Black #1 and Black #2.  Again I have Black, Blue and White to match the module.  One way there is to be continuity and another way there is not.  Can't just guess at which way is the correct way.  As for the coil, these engines as I understand it is a special coil and cannot be interchanged with another coil.

 

The module is available for $85.  The coil is available but don't know the cost but probably close to $60.  If the stator is bad, is it even available and if so, how much?  Would $125 touch it?  Probably not.  So I could easily spend over $200 in parts that cannot be returned and then find out the Hydro is bad.  At least if I can find another running engine and the hydro is bad I still have an engine that can be used in several other applications.  Kind of between a rock and a hard spot.



#4 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 06:25 PM

Sorry to hear that. I only have manuals for tr10-12d and for THD and TJD. Sounds like quite the electrical conundrum! Electrical problems are my worst nightmare, sorry I cannot help you further, good luck.

#5 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 06:31 PM

Just a thought but the only reason your coil would not be interchangeable would be if it was external resistor or internal resistor the coil should be marked, then just buy the coil according to what is marked on it. Not sure this helps but just thinking aloud!

#6 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 07:18 PM

I don't think it is quite that simple.  A standard 12 volt coil, with or without a resistor will read open between the output and the coil case.  The coil for this Wisconsin is supposed to have 4k - 6k resistance between the output and the case.  In the manuals section under engines download the Wisconsin manual for the 10-12-14 hp  engines.  On page 66 is has the instructions I mentioned.  In that same area is where it mentions the way to test the coil and what it should read.  Different than anything I have run into before.  Thanks for trying just the same.  At this point I am about game for anything that remotely has a chance of working.


Edited by chieffan, November 01, 2015 - 08:08 AM.


#7 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 08:36 PM

I do have a seized tra12d with intact ignition sitting in the woods, maybe I should rip that ignition and send it to you?
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#8 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 09:09 PM

I do have a seized tra12d with intact ignition sitting in the woods, maybe I should rip that ignition and send it to you?

Is it the electronic ignition module or a points unit?  Haven't check to see if mine can be change to a points unit or not.  Will check and let you know.  Thanks for the offer.



#9 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 09:19 PM

You can always resell off eBay your unused ignition modules once you found your problem, at a slight loss perhaps but at least not 200$ out of pocket.
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#10 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 10:10 PM

No problem let me know and I can wonder out into the woods and look at it! I have been using it as a parts machine while restoring my neighbors bolens 900. Basically a motor and trans plus rails left but ignition is intact. PM me when you get around to it and I will give it a look.
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#11 ClassicBolens ONLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 11:23 PM

I don't think it is quite that simple.  A standard 12 volt coil, with or without a resistor will read open between the output and the coil case.  The coil for this Briggs is supposed to have 4k - 6k resistance between the output and the case.  In the manuals section under engines download the Wisconsin manual for the 10-12-14 hp  engines.  On page 66 is has the instructions I mentioned.  In that same area is where it mentions the way to test the coil and what it should read.  Different than anything I have run into before.  Thanks for trying just the same.  At this point I am about game for anything that remotely has a chance of working.

The instructions on page 66 refer to testing of the charging system only... ("stator and voltage rectifier module"), which is why nothing is matching up to what you have. This was only for engines with an electric starter motor, unlike our Bolens with a starter generator system.

 

As for the ignition coil, it states "primary winding resistance is so low, it is not advisable to measure it." Secondary winding reisistance (coil output to ground) should be between 4000 and 6000 ohms. As Bolens1000 pointed out in your other thread, this takes a specific coil (Part # YF37). 

 

Unfortunately, Wisconsin's recommended method for testing the ignition module (Part # YJ69) was to replace it with a known good or new unit. If that does not correct the spark issue, then replace the stator (Part # YB83). - Imagine that, just throw parts at it until we figure it out   :wallbanging:  There is no other listed documentation on how to bench test this system.    

 

You should check out this thread here as another member had a similar no spark issue on his 1455 and used a common GM ignition module in place of the original: http://gardentractor...johnson-loader/

 

Feel free to PM me and I gladly do what I can to help.


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#12 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 12:39 AM

Any chance that your original ignition system was replaced by a previous owner? Maybe with one of the systems from Dale Colvert @ Overnight Solutions?


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#13 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 07:36 AM

You can always resell off eBay your unused ignition modules once you found your problem, at a slight loss perhaps but at least not 200$ out of pocket.

That is a possibility I never though of.  Thanks.



#14 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 07:38 AM

Any chance that your original ignition system was replaced by a previous owner? Maybe with one of the systems from Dale Colvert @ Overnight Solutions?

I don't think so as it looks like what is shown in the manuals.  Probably would have to change flywheel and all to work with the different stator.,



#15 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 08:11 AM

Any chance that your original ignition system was replaced by a previous owner? Maybe with one of the systems from Dale Colvert @ Overnight Solutions?

When we buy this old stuff there is no way of knowing just what was done, or not done, to ti.  Yes, it is possible but I don't think it was as it all looks like orignal Wisconsin parts per there manuals.






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