429 replies to this topic

[BowDown]

100HP? Naturally Aspirated? What's the compression ratio on that thing? Wow.

[Mark 149 J.]

100 hp single.jpgAs a layman I would just get a .010 piston and have it bored and honed. to fit. Or just throw it back together with some new rings. not like you looking for any real power. Just my laymans thoughts lmao. This engine I'm building here is based a kohler engine 50.5 cu in. which will be around 100 hp fuel injected on EtOH

Do you have a thread started for your motor?  That looks really cool!

[Mark 149 J.]

You would be surprised at how easy these hones are to use. I mount the hone in my drill press and set the stops so that the stones protrude an inch past the top and bottom of the cylinder. It takes a while to hone a block oversize, but the hone actually straightens out the bore and makes it round again. I wouldn't be intimated at all, and the chance of ruining the block is almost nonexistent. Just measure with the bore gauge frequently throughout the process, and let the stones do the work. I have to admit that I was intimidated at first, but I was actually amazed at how easy the process was. In the pics below, you can see where the cylinder wears the most. It's mainly on the cylinder wall closest to the valves. This depression in the cylinder slowly disappears as you continue honing. Once the depression disappears, you measure the cylinder to see if you have to go to the next oversize piston.

Nice work!  I have a K321 that I need to do this with.  Do you still move the hone up and down a lot (like your trying to get a cross hatch pattern) during the process?  What do you use to lubricate the hone?

[classic]

Hello Mark. When honing oversize, I start with the coarse stones in the Lise hone. You work the bore from the bottom up to the top. The bottom of the bore gets the least amount of wear. Once the depressions from wear disappear in the bore from honing, I take measurements with my dial bore ggouge.This lets me know how much further to go. As I continue honing, I stop at times to make sure that the bore is straight and round. When I get within .001 of the target bore size, I switch to the finer stones. All of this honing is done in a drill press until it's time to make the cross hatch pattern. I then put the Lisle hone in a hand drill to create the cross hatch pattern. It doesn't take many passes to create the pattern. I use ATF for honing oil and it works great. I'll post pics in a minute of a Wisconsin AKN that I honed .010 over recently. It took me roughly 4 hours to hone it oversize.

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Edited by classic, February 14, 2017 - 11:06 AM.

[Mark 149 J.]

Hello Mark. When honing oversize, I start with the coarse stones in the Lise hone. You work the bore from the bottom up to the top. The bottom of the bore gets the least amount of wear. Once the depressions from wear disappear in the bore from honing, I take measurements with my dial bore ggouge.This lets me know how much further to go. As I continue honing, I stop at times to make sure that the bore is straight and round. When I get within .001 of the target bore size, I switch to the finer stones. All of this honing is done in a drill press until it's time to make the cross hatch pattern. I then put the Lisle hone in a hand drill to create the cross hatch pattern. It doesn't take many passes to create the pattern. I use ATF for honing oil and it works great. I'll post pics in a minute of a Wisconsin AKN that I honed .010 over recently. It took me roughly 4 hours to hone it oversize.

Classic,

Thanks for that information!

I hate to hijack this thread.  Would you be willing to start a new thread  talking about and showing both the tools, set-up, and techniques from start to finish?  I know this would be a lot of work on your part but I think there would be a lot of people interested.  It seems like a lot machine shops don't/won't/can't provide a service for our type of small engines. 

[classic]

You're welcome, Mark. I could start a new thread about this when I can find some time. I ran into the same problem with finding a machine shop to do my work. I wanted to learn how to do it myself anyway, since I enjoy it. I searched to find the needed tools at the best price possible, since at retail it would have been costly. Most people just need one engine rebuilt, so buying the tools may not be worth it for them. I just like having the option to do the work when I feel like it, and I know it will be done right. For now, I can send you a message with what you will need to do the Job. feel free to contact me about procedure and I'll help you through it. It's alot simpler than I thought, but it takes patients and attention to detail. Measuring over and over is extremely important.

[KennyP]

Thanks for sharing that! About all I would need is the bore gauge and some coarse grit stones for my hone. I have a K341 that will need boring, but gotta find a crank first.

[UncleWillie]

You ever finish this?

[KennyP]

He hasn't been here since Feb.!

[Hondarider]

I'm still staring at the disassembled motor in my garage.  This project was overtaken by 3 or 4 others and I haven't managed to get back to it yet.  My biggest issue was sourcing parts for the engine rebuild.  It wasn't as straightforward as putting together a list of parts and simply ordering them.  The parts list, itself, is a bit of a mystery to me.  It's a shame as I think I'm about 80% there for completing this old tractor.  I've considered buying an entire 'nuther Panzer just for the motor.