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Where Does This Wire Go?


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#16 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 04:51 PM

On the original factory supplied YJ-69 ignition modules used on the Bolens 1455, 1476 and 1477, the white wire was not there at all. The factory replacement YJ-69 modules came with the white wire so that it could be connected to a separate on/off kill switch, which was recommended by Wisconsin, to prevent any back feed or pulse from the original ignition switch to the module which could potentially short it out.

 

Your options here would be to isolate the white wire and not use it at all, relying only on the tractor ignition switch to kill the engine (black wire from Y terminal on ignition switch to - side of coil). This option is usually ok, as long as your ignition switch is in excellent working condition (or new) and all wiring is clean and tight. 

 

Or, add a secondary kill switch. White wire to one side, other side to ground.

 

Good Luck!

Thanks much.  That explains why I have two different wiring diagrams.  The ignition module on my tractor has been replaced once already.  Thus the "extra" white wire.  My ignition switch is new as is part of the wiring.  What I did use from original was good wire, flexible, no breaks and the terminals were cleaned prior to connection.  Going to go with isolating the extra white wire.  Now to figure out why I have no spark.  :wallbanging:   :boo_hoo:    :give_me_beer:


Edited by chieffan, October 27, 2015 - 04:51 PM.

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#17 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 09:03 AM

I have a secondary kill switch on my 1477..Cause my original solid state went out. I bought it many years ago from a guy in wis. somewhere,, he builds them and in his schematic it shows a kill switch on there,, so,, thats what I did...   His name was Dale   something..   My tractor is at the cabin so I can't look at it right now...  Sorry... 


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#18 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 12:35 PM

I have a secondary kill switch on my 1477..Cause my original solid state went out. I bought it many years ago from a guy in wis. somewhere,, he builds them and in his schematic it shows a kill switch on there,, so,, thats what I did...   His name was Dale   something..   My tractor is at the cabin so I can't look at it right now...  Sorry... 

Thank, I have that information , thanks to Bolens Parts & Supply.  Will be checking things out this afternoon and see what comes up. 



#19 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 12:36 PM

I used a small relay to achieve the kill function in conjunction with the original switch. It works great and you can't see the relay.


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#20 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 01:19 PM

I used a small relay to achieve the kill function in conjunction with the original switch. It works great and you can't see the relay.

That would work good also.  Use the ignition switch to break the ground for the relay.  When off, no ground and relay opens



#21 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 01:32 PM

Well, ran into something else.  Page 66 of the Wisconsin manual shows how to check the stator and the module.  However, the color given do not match up with the colors I have on this engine.  From the stator I have a black, blue and white, with the extra white for the kill switch.  From the module i have a black, blue,red, and white.

 

Since the colors are the same for both the stator and module, I am guessing these two components are OEM and the module is probably a YJ-69 replacement.  The test procedure is different for the YJ-68 and the YJ-60, and probably different for the YJ-69 also.

 

From the page 66 instructions I believe the stator they are referring to has the charging coil as well as the ignition coil.

 

Now - how to I go about testing my ignition only stator and electronic ignition module? 

 

If both the stator and module are bad, I will start looking for a replacement engine.  Sure wish I knew if the hydro was good or not.  Hate to drop a couple hundred into the motor and find out the hydro is bad.


Edited by chieffan, October 28, 2015 - 01:33 PM.


#22 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2015 - 05:33 PM

After doing some more reading and research I found where the secondary coil windings is to have between 4K and 6K ohm resistance between the output and coil case or ground.  I checked my coil that is on the engine and give me an open reading.  Keeping my fingers cross that the coil is the problem.  Worked on the fireplace all morning so didn't get to it today.  Rain coming in tomorrow evening and my knees are really hurting this afternoon.



#23 rjmartinny OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2015 - 06:30 PM

Hi,  years ago F M C Bolens dealers got a bulletin about that SS unit to add extra switch just for the ign. system, the reason was some times the ign. would allow 12 volts to get to that SS unit and burn it out. What ever you do never let 12 volts near it.


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#24 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 07:32 AM

Hi,  years ago F M C Bolens dealers got a bulletin about that SS unit to add extra switch just for the ign. system, the reason was some times the ign. would allow 12 volts to get to that SS unit and burn it out. What ever you do never let 12 volts near it.

This tractor has a cigarette lighted installed under the choke.  I have a good heavy push button switch, believe it was a safety switch for something I plan to install in that spot.  First get fire to the plug, then get the switch put in, then get the engine running, then check out the hydro.  THEN  just maybe, I may have a project that will be something.  Just maybe.



#25 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 09:30 AM

Pulled the coil off a working system.  It is 12 V and requires an external resistor, which I was using on the system.  When I checked between the output to the plug and the case of the coil I get an open reading.  Does the Wisconsin take a special coil?  The Wisconsin does not use any external power in the ignition system, only what the stator generates.



#26 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 09:40 AM

The ones Wisconsin called for on the solid state ignition were YF37 and are somehow different internally compared to the YF38 found on the points ignition systems.

I dont know what the difference is but I can say they will not interchange as I one time swapped them and about 10 minutes later smoke was pouring out and fried the coil.

 

 

Funny how you mention coils as I finally found YF37 replacements after years of looking for sources!


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#27 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 11:17 AM

Thanks Brian.  I am not sure the coil that is on the tractor is the correct one as it was painted red along with everything else except the hood and fender pan.  If you have one of the YF37 coils, could you grab a meter reading from the output of the coil to the coil case and see what that is please?  According to the manual it should read between 4k and 6k.

 

Re: ClassicBolens :On the original factory supplied YJ-69 ignition modules used on the Bolens 1455, 1476 and 1477, the white wire was not there at all. The factory replacement YJ-69 modules came with the white wire so that it could be connected to a separate on/off kill switch, which was recommended by Wisconsin, to prevent any back feed or pulse from the original ignition switch to the module which could potentially short it out.

 

The extra white wire on my set up does not come out of the module side of the connector but the coil side of the connector.

Ign Mod.JPG

 

If you enlarge the photo you can see the white wire that is in a loop up with the end down by the carb.



#28 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 08:30 PM

My question is how do you have 4 wires going into the connector and 5 wires coming out? That does not look right, maybe added later? Again just me thinking aloud!
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#29 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 10:29 AM

Cheiffan,,  Do you have the Wis. engine  Instruction book and parts list,?? in the back it has a flywheel alternator trouble shoot section..   I'm an elec.trical idiot,, so all I can do is ask..  But it doe's give some tests to perform... 


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#30 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2015 - 07:13 PM

My question is how do you have 4 wires going into the connector and 5 wires coming out? That does not look right, maybe added later? Again just me thinking aloud!

Actually, there is 7 wires at the connector.  A black, blue, white from the module side.  The red from the module by passes the connector and goes to the coil.  The other side of the connector is from the stator, a blue, black and white.  The white has two wires, one that goes to the stator and the long one that probably goes to the kill switch.






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