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Dead no spark K321"bad trigger pickup"anyone found another pickup that works?


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#1 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2015 - 05:35 PM

Hi,have a k321 14hp kohler with electronic ignition.The trigger pickup is bad on it.I tested it per specs to kohler.There is no way in heck im giving Kohler nearly 300.00 for that part.To me it looks like a regular CDI pickup.I found a replacement that looks nearly like it for 15.00.It is for a GY6 Chinese scooter.Has anyone else tried another pickup??My block has the holes for the points,but I have no points,points plunger,points bracket,points cover,bottle coil or condenser.Not to mention that im sure iwill have to remove the side cover to install the points plunger rod and have to buy a gasket.Any input or ideas of what you have tried to replace that high"rediculous"kohler trigger.If I can get it to spark,i can time it with a adjustable bracket I can make.


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#2 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2015 - 07:13 PM

K321 with electronic ignition. Is thsi something aftermarket?  Every K series that I have ever seen that comes from Kohler with electronic ignition, is the newer Magnum series. Is this a K series or an M14? 

They were identical (and "most" parts interchange) except for points or no points.


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#3 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2015 - 07:30 PM

Factory breakerless ignition.k321 14hp cast iron block. K series


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#4 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2015 - 09:49 PM

not saying it don't exist just that I have not seen such a factory setup on any engine listed as a "K" series, only M's. 

what year engine?  Was this like an optional dealer add on?   you have me wondering.


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#5 1oldbuzz OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 03:16 AM

2 comments

Have you thought about a nova module? I think they can be had for under $20 off ebay might be worth a try just a suggestion

 

I have a 1969 K321 that has the electronic or pointless system and as far as I know this is original as the block is not even drilled

for points or point cover.It also has I believe rare standard electric start not SG


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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 04:48 AM

The K321S in my '70's Jake doesn't have points!



#7 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 05:10 AM

This is all new to me but for $15 bucks I would take a chance , heck last nights pizza was more then that lol


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#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 11:47 AM

Used ones on epay are even $125 with no garuantee. (sic).  Many times on PK forums guys test these according to books and say are bad, but later find diff issue and wasn't bad at all. Very hard to test. Options were to take one from running engine to test, not so great if none around.  Have seen others make up stuff, but not too good of results, mostly in mounting.  You CAN change to points on most blocks. The point cover and mount holes are usually there and threaded. There is a small tin plug in the plunger hole that needs to be knocked INTO the engine pan. You fish that out with magnet or tipping it around or such things. THEN, one needs the pusher, points, cover and gasket and wire to coil, AND a different coil and the mount for it. Points wire to neg side of coil and ignition 12v source to the pos side, off the key. AND, the Key itself will need to change to the batt ig one and not the M or Magneto one also to work. Might have forgotten something, but should be close. Oh, plug wire from coil to plug, not one from under flywheel.  One other thing to try is cleaning all the mount points for items connecting to the block. Many times rust and corrosion just builds up and you get NO ground and is simple as that to get it to work.  Is your key switch working OK? disconnect that M wire and try it, but won't shut off then, to test if that is the issue. Good Luck with it, can be frustrating, Stay Calm!


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#9 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2015 - 08:39 AM

That's the first thing I do when I have a no spark motor.I sand and check the grounds.I removed the flywheel and cleaned the stator,flywheel magnets,and cleaned everything behind it.Diode 2 and the Scr is shorted out in my trigger.Im going to grind all the plastic off the trigger and try to take it apart.If it can be made,then it can be took apart.If I have no luck there,then go to points my block has the holes for it.My only question about the points setup is"does the points plunger rod install from the front or the back??What keeps it from falling into the block?i guess the cam holds it in the motor and the points hold it from vibrating out the front?I have no switch hooked up to the ignition system.I removed it to isolate the problem.I got the tractor the wiring was a mess.There was no resistor in the circuit to prvent feedback voltage to the coil and the trigger.The coil check out on a Ohm meter.When I first tested the trigger it tested fine,but the second time the Diode 2 and SCR in the trigger showed shorting.


Edited by aftonrobert, October 25, 2015 - 09:37 AM.

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#10 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2015 - 09:47 AM

This ignition system was actually very common in these engines.

 

I see what you mean about the cost of the trigger module! Just ran it through my inventory system!!!

if it helps you out I can do $ 211.64 on the trigger

 

Converting to points would be roughly $ 125 using my list prices to buy all the stuff from Kohler , points,cover , plunger ect.

 

let me know if I can help



#11 RBOWKER OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2015 - 01:30 PM

Hey, I'm new to this site and found this thread.
I'm having the same exact problem on my K321S-60275D. (NO SPARK)
Could you let me know how you found the test spec for the parts in this crazy electronic ignition system ?

Thanks in advance
Bob

#12 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2015 - 09:21 AM

I have a test sheet a guy on a gravely site that I used.I don't know how to update the picture to this thread.I changed my motor over to points and it was super easy.My block had the 5 holes in the corner of the block.I thought it would be a problem of getting the plug out for the points plunger.It wasn't.I used a little drill bit to knock it into the motor.You will have to remove your bottom sump to get the little plug out.You will need a new gasket.Im glad I switched over to points because there was molasses like sludge in the oil pan.I bought a used 10 hp Kohler for 20 that had all the parts I needed..Kohler was wanting nearly 275 for the trigger module.NO WAY.You can buy brand new parts for points and it will still be cheaper than the trigger module.If you still want to test your module.you will need a 12volt battery and a test light.You will have to remove your trigger from the cover.If someone will show me how to upload a picture I will post it.Clean your grounds,and check for frayed wires.I removed my flywheel thinking my stator needed cleaned to fix the problem.I didn't but it might fix yours.There should be a resistor  before you wire to the ignition switch too.



#13 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2015 - 09:23 AM

help.jpg


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#14 Jeff W. OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2015 - 07:20 PM

This is my first time trying to post,hope this is the right place. I have a 14 HP. K321, My question is if the charging system is working correctly should the engine continue to run when you disconnect battery? I have replaced stater and voltage regulator and they both check OK per manual test. Not real failure w/points ignition. Please help




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