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New (to me) GT-18, zerk fitting size question


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#16 gbru316 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2015 - 09:14 PM

follow up: what's the best way to get to the bottom hole in the front electric clutch? Do I need to remove the belts? Or is removing the idler pulley spring to loosen tension adequate?



#17 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2015 - 05:13 AM

If you unhook the spring, it is usually a bit easier to work around.
I just saw where you are located, welcome from the north end of the county.

Edited by shorty, October 22, 2015 - 05:18 AM.

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#18 Jimithin7000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2015 - 07:58 PM

Man that's a cool story. I love hearing about these machines surviving the ages. 



#19 Curtis1480 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2015 - 09:38 AM

Your battery discharge issue is most likely due to the hour meter running constantly even with the ignition turned off, I encountered this issue when i removed the safety switches from my GT20. An easy fix is to just unplug the hour meter. I ran the safety circuit to a toggle switch on the dash that must be turned on to start the tractor but than can be immediaty switched off once it is running. Only issue is if i forget to turn it off the hr meter will continue to run after i park the machine and drain the battery. I am considering changing out the toggle switch for a momentary switch to solve that problem but, for now i just have the hour meter unplugged.


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#20 gbru316 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 05:57 PM

Thought I'd post an update:

 

Purchased a grease gun and NGLI-2 grease and gave it a once over. Ended up trading the plow for the blower for this past snow (we got 25") and it performed flawlessly even when the snow was deeper than the top of the "scoop." Instead of bogging down when I went too fast, it just pushed the snow in front of the blower while it processed what it could. Beyond impressed with it. This is the first year in over a decade where I didn't break a sweat clearing snow, and I cleared both neighbors driveways too. Ran into some minor issues though:

 

1. Broke the blower shear bolts after getting caught up in some unseen wire. Replacements are about $7.50 apiece....ouch! Bought 4 so now I have 2 spares.

2. Broke a tire chain. I had not noticed the spring tension rigging when I put them on, they ended up sliding off to the side of the tire and the retaining clip broke on one of them. Oh well, lesson learned.

3. While I was at the local shop purchasing shear bolts, I picked up some L3 with the intention of changing the blower transmission fluid after the season was over. While I was replacing the bolts, opened up the transmission and noticed it was only half full. So topped it off while I was there.

 

I do have a question about mower deck grease. What type should I use? Most of the stuff in the manual is out of production. Is the NGLI-2 acceptable?

 

Curtis, the battery discharge was a result of my Uncle disabling the seat safety switch. I wired it back into the circuit and haven't had any problems.

 

(and yes, I know I'm overdue for some pictures, maybe in the spring)


Edited by gbru316, January 26, 2016 - 06:27 PM.


#21 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 08:21 PM

This snow that we had sure took the equipment to the limit. I was wishing I had a blower to put on the tractor.
It seems every winter I learn something new with moving snow. From getting the equipment setup to actually working.
I think that JD has an equivalent grease for the gearbox. An older farmer told me that you can make your own by mixing a bit of oil with the grease. I am sure it's not recommended but it works.

#22 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 08:44 PM

I do have a question about mower deck grease. What type should I use? Most of the stuff in the manual is out of production. Is the NGLI-2 acceptable?

 

I think it's supposed to be 90 or 80/90 weight gear oil. You can use JD 00 cornhead grease since it is a warm weather attachment. (NLGI #0)

 

an102562-medium.jpg


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#23 gbru316 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 08:49 PM

This snow that we had sure took the equipment to the limit. I was wishing I had a blower to put on the tractor.
It seems every winter I learn something new with moving snow. From getting the equipment setup to actually working.
I think that JD has an equivalent grease for the gearbox. An older farmer told me that you can make your own by mixing a bit of oil with the grease. I am sure it's not recommended but it works.

 

 

oh man, you need to find one. Probably the single greatest implement, even beating out the bagger/vac. Found this tonight, maybe he'd be willing to sell the blower separately? Looks like it's in pretty good shape. If you ever pick one up, Musser's stocks the shear bolts.

 

http://lancaster.cra...5409345446.html


Edited by gbru316, January 26, 2016 - 08:51 PM.

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#24 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2016 - 09:08 PM

That one has been renewing the itch. Ever since it was posted. Very nice.

I have dealt with Mussers before, very nice to work with.

Edited by shorty, January 27, 2016 - 06:11 AM.


#25 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 07:38 AM

This snow that we had sure took the equipment to the limit. I was wishing I had a blower to put on the tractor.
It seems every winter I learn something new with moving snow. From getting the equipment setup to actually working.
I think that JD has an equivalent grease for the gearbox. An older farmer told me that you can make your own by mixing a bit of oil with the grease. I am sure it's not recommended but it works.

Shorty, don't know how you handled this snow without a thrower. It got lighter as the storm progressed but the first foot or so was dense. I waited  until Sun am and had drifts well over the top of my 48" thrower. Had to take it slow sometimes backing-up to let the auger catch-up. I traded in my plow for a used thrower back in the early nineties when we had a series of heavy snows leaving me nowhere to push it. Best move I ever made.



#26 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 07:39 AM

I think it's supposed to be 90 or 80/90 weight gear oil. You can use JD 00 cornhead grease since it is a warm weather attachment. (NLGI #0)

 

an102562-medium.jpg

 

No, it takes No 2 grease, not oil.


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#27 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2016 - 10:01 AM

Shorty, don't know how you handled this snow without a thrower. It got lighter as the storm progressed but the first foot or so was dense. I waited until Sun am and had drifts well over the top of my 48" thrower. Had to take it slow sometimes backing-up to let the auger catch-up. I traded in my plow for a used thrower back in the early nineties when we had a series of heavy snows leaving me nowhere to push it. Best move I ever made.

Lots of time and patience....

#28 gbru316 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 11:07 AM

So I got around to changing the hydro filter (because I wasn't sure when it was last done). Changing the filter was fine; took off old filter, filled new filter with 5w30, threaded on new filter, priming the system. But when I removed the fill cap on the rear of the tractor, at least a quart of oil spilled out. Is this normal or was the system overfilled?

 

Also, the maintenance manual says to fill the hydro system until fluid is even with the top of the elbow. Thing is, I keep adding more and more oil and it keeps settling slightly below the top of the elbow. Do I need to keep adding until the elbow orifice is visibly flat on top (as in, flat surface of oil in the hole so the top of the elbow appears smooth)? The manual isn't very specific when it defines full... or maybe I'm just overthinking it.

 

Anyway, a little guidance would be appreciated.



#29 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2016 - 01:35 PM

So I got around to changing the hydro filter (because I wasn't sure when it was last done). Changing the filter was fine; took off old filter, filled new filter with 5w30, threaded on new filter, priming the system. But when I removed the fill cap on the rear of the tractor, at least a quart of oil spilled out. Is this normal or was the system overfilled?
 
Also, the maintenance manual says to fill the hydro system until fluid is even with the top of the elbow. Thing is, I keep adding more and more oil and it keeps settling slightly below the top of the elbow. Do I need to keep adding until the elbow orifice is visibly flat on top (as in, flat surface of oil in the hole so the top of the elbow appears smooth)? The manual isn't very specific when it defines full... or maybe I'm just overthinking it.
 
Anyway, a little guidance would be appreciated.


Tractor must be running when you uncork the fill plug and add oil. I add to bottom of threads so nothing spills when I install plug. How did you fill the filter with oil when it mounts horizontally?

#30 Billy M OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2016 - 09:39 AM

Tractor must be running when you uncork the fill plug and add oil. I add to bottom of threads so nothing spills when I install plug. How did you fill the filter with oil when it mounts horizontally?

You have to lift the back of the tractor about 7' in the air to make the tractor vertical.  Then you can fill the filter with oil and install vertically also.  I think there is a revision in the manual for that procedure!   :D 

 

I've always wondered if it fills the filter when you prime it through the check valve on top of the hydro assembly.  I don't know if it does or not, but have never had a problem changing the fluid & filter per the manual.  I just changed engine and trans oil/filter on my Grand Sierra last week.  That made for an expensive oil change on a garden tractor!






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