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Wheelhorse GT14 Cannot remove flywheel"believe to be rusted to shaft"help!


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#1 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:45 PM

Hi,new to the forum and the site.Have several and worked on several garden tractors in the past.I have never encountered a flywheel that I cant remove until now.Its a Kohler k321 on a gt14 wheelhorse.Ive heated it up with a bottle torch used pb blaster and vinegar on it.The vinegar cleaned up the top of the crankshaft.I have a puller on it now with a incredible amount of tension on the bolts.Today I thought I found the answer with a impact gun.Didnt help a bit.Tried  prying up on the flywheel as I used the impact gun.Nothing has worked.Is this a common this with old Kohler motors?Any help will be appreciated.Going on 4 days now with heating,pb blaster,and vinegar.Not budged a millimeter.



#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:48 PM

:wave: Welcome to the forum! Some times a nice rap with a hammer on the puller nut will pop them loose!


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#3 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:54 PM

Make sure you have removed ALL the bolts off the flywheel. I made that mistake once on a k321.



#4 BigFlash OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:54 PM

A stuck flywheel is fairly common on every brand of engine that uses a tapered shaft. There's alot of tricks for this, you started with a few, Using a puller is about the best, along with the a sharp knock from a hammer, and heat. The trick lies in finding the perfect combination which is different every time. Since you have the puller on and its not budging. I would say leave the puller on it under tension for a couple days, Every now again spraying more penetrating oil and sharp smack with a hammer. 


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#5 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 06:09 PM

I agree with BigFlash....leave the puller on it with tension and keep applying penetrateing oil. A good smake with a BIG hammer on the end of the puller will help.

 

I had the same problem with my GT-14 once, but I didn't have a puller....Note to self, "Buy a puller"!



#6 aftonrobert OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 06:26 PM

larrybl what do you mean by all the bolts?i just seen a flywheel nut?Is there any others?



#7 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 06:29 PM

A stuck flywheel is fairly common on every brand of engine that uses a tapered shaft. There's alot of tricks for this, you started with a few, Using a puller is about the best, along with the a sharp knock from a hammer, and heat. The trick lies in finding the perfect combination which is different every time. Since you have the puller on and its not budging. I would say leave the puller on it under tension for a couple days, Every now again spraying more penetrating oil and sharp smack with a hammer. 

 

:ditto:  What he said.

 

Put puller on tight and spray away. Next day smack with hammer, tighten, add more spray. Repeat.

The last time, I done this on the fourth day the puller was loose and so was the flywheel. :dancingbanana:

 

BTW   :welcometogttalk:



#8 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 06:44 PM

I have used a short piece of angle iron.  I drilled holes in the angle iron to might two bolt holes in the flywheel.  Then used the angle iron as a puller.  If the flywheel did not come off, I used my air impact hammer around the center of the flywheel.  I did keep tension on the bolts for the angle iron.  The flywheel comes off after a while.  I have done this on several flywheels.

Do not hit the end of the crank, or you can brake the end off the crank off.



#9 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:07 PM

Ditto to the puller tension, PB Blaster and solid rap with hammer. I have a 4lb mallet with small handle and you DON"T have to really drive it, just good solid hit. If it's gonna come, that makes it fall off immediately.  Few days of this works best. Start on another tractor or move on to diff part of this one while waiting. Another reason why more than one tractor is needed, heh!



#10 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:18 PM

... Another reason why more than one tractor is needed, heh!

 

And this is from a man who is "getting out of the hobby!" :poke:


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#11 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:20 PM

Year ain't over!



#12 grattone OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:28 PM

can you put a date on that year, 2029, 2050 >>>>>  ?



#13 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:33 PM

I am in the process of restoring a wayward 1250 Bolens with an S12D Wisconsin.  There was a big mouse nest in the cylinder fins just above the crank.  I believe the mouse urine did a job on the taper joint between the flywheel and shaft.  Even the nut would not budge.  I finally gave up and used a cold chisel on the nut, but there was no budging the flywheel.  The Wisconsin service manual says "Take a firm hold on the flywheel fins and pull outward and at the same time strike the end of the crankshaft with a babbitt hammer.  The flywheel  will slide off the taper of the crankshaft.  Do not use a hard hammer as it will damage the end of the crankshafft."  Well, I ended up using four large cold chisels that tapered from their square handle area to the cutting edge.  I wedged these four chisels between the inside surface of the flywheel and some more substantial places on the engine block.  I used a three pound hammer and hit it with all I had several times before it budged.  Yes, I damaged the end of the crank, but a $20 trip to the machine shop took care of it.  That was the worst case I've experienced in getting a flywheel off.  All this was after several days of PB blaster and heat. 



#14 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 07:45 PM

I wanted to make sure all the flywheel bolts were removed, I destroyed a puller before I figured out two more bolts had to be removed. 

 

The worst one for me was a 18hp Briggs Opposed. Took tightening the puller with a air impact set to 125 psi and a 25lb sledge. Got-er-Done.

 

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#15 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 09:01 PM

The puller threads won't last long with the impact wrench..  I've stripped a few--  Good thing they are cheap..  

 

Many folks advise against it but I've had the best luck and least crank damage by installing the puller and putting pressure on the joint as much as I dare.  Give the thing a rap..  if it won't come off, the MAPP torch comes out..  I'll heat up the flywheel in a circular motion about 1/2" from the crankshaft to flywheel joint and usually after a few minutes of this it will pop right off..  The trick is to expand the flywheel material to push it off the crankshaft taper.  I've had great results with some really ornery flywheels this way..  One thing to remember is this-  Don't heat the flywheel anywhere near the glued on magnets inside it..   :ah_shoot:


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