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My winter project

4K views 43 replies 5 participants last post by  John Arsenault 
#1 ·
Hello guys just wanted to introduce myself here and share with you my next tractor project/s this winter. These are two different tractors I picked up 3rd one not shown just a parts tractor. I have not ran the numbers or anything just got them home so far and started tearing into one of them. I am not sure whats good or bad with either of these or even if they are the year/s that the seller said they were as he was unsure.

I have never turned a wrench on a sears tractor before so this should be fun. So far getting the steering wheel off was the hardest part lets hope it stays that way. I don't expect anything good to come out of the 3 of these (low expectations less chance of a let down) besides having two good ones when I am finally done.

Been doing some reading and hear the SSI units on these are a common pita the parts tractor supposedly was running till it lost spark. Its ok I have done some research and will get through it.

One is a manual and one is a hydo (the parts tractor is also a hydro) I am starting on the manual first because it appears to be very tight and may need less to get it finished.

These tractors will be restored and used and I know a lot of you guys may have parts for these so if you do kindly post a message here so that I can contact you when I do in case you have stuff to sell or swap.Also if you know of any good pointers or things to look out for please do tell.

Thanks John
 

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#3 ·
Think I am going to sell the sickle mower, as cool as it is I will just never use it. was thinking of doing a restore on it and keeping it just for show because of the cool factor, but I just want one of these sears to operate a plow and the other a snow blower and possibly a rear tiller for our gardening. I'll even be willing to trade with someone old parts for old parts etc. but I had to buy everything the seller would not break it up.

So as far as implements go for these sears I have two mower decks a plow and a snow blower and this sickle bar mower. I also got a 5 gallon bucket full of metal brackets and arms I have to figure out what they are.
 
#4 ·
I'd take that sickle, but, alas, no money & too far!
 
#5 ·
Welcome.

Those looks to be 68-69 SS12's.

The engine will have a number stamped in oil pan down on the front under flywheel, that will tell you Hp of engine.

I'm with Kenny, I would take that sickle if I was closer.

The SSI modules can be gotten around, can be pricey no matter what, but there are solutions. I have a custom built one on my 16, going ready to build another one on my resto project.

You can click the link in my sig and it will give you details on the various options
 
#6 ·
Haha I was all ready all over that SSI Info.....thanks for the info I'll make sure to repay the favor to someone if I can help them out along the way.

I was told 2 are 68's and one is a 67 ....the 67 is the parts tractor I have not taken a picture of so that would make them both 68's if the information I got was accurate.

I am hoping that between the 3 I can get 1 to run so that I can swap over things to engine 2 to find out whats bad. I know I can test a few things with my meter but I want to be able to test each part and label it good or bad to see what I got and what I will need.

only thing I am not liking about these sears are when you pull the engine there goes your starter/gen. I made a spot in my garage for testing engines it has a battery fuel cell and ignition switch but can't use it with my sears because the frame is the starter mount. ...I'll rig something up.
 
#7 ·
Started my "winter project" a little early could not wait till it gets cold so I can do the nasty chore or degreasing. This one seems like it will be much easier then my Simplicity 3212 as far as rusty parts are concerned. On the good side my wife dont think I am crazy anymore, after she saw me bring home the first rust bucket I am sure she though the old man lost his mind. then after unloading it I was walking around that thing like it was a shinny new car.

as promised Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle
 

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#8 ·
Update ...still not winter yet

Bumper Gas Engineering Wood Composite material


Got it stipped down

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Bumper


Think I found why it lost spark

Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Bumper Engineering


Think I found where the oil leak came from.

Grille Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Bumper


Got this painted anyway

Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Machine


Got the frame painted but will upload them when I get pictures.

Thats all for now.
 

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#9 ·
At least you are making progress!
 
#12 ·
Hi John, welcome to the Sears Suburban world great tractor (at least I think so have 6 of them) your making good progress it will be a nice looking machine when your done, I sure would like to have a sickle mower but your way to far away for me. One model of Suburban I don't have is a Hydro wouldn't mind one of those. As for the SSI unit if what you found doesn't fix the problem I recommend Dale Colvert's Over night Solutions replacements they are all new parts work like original end of ignition problems http://overnight-solutions.com/
 
#13 ·
I cant wait till I get to the ignition problems that will mean I am done with the rolling chassis.Thanks for the recommendation! I was online looking at the parts diagram today and found that I had some of the wrong bolts missing washers etc. so I spent most of my day getting it all correct. As I have never done a sears suburban and only very few tractors I am taking my time to make sure everything goes back together the way it should. hate taking half the tractor back apart because you forgot a spring or incorrectly routed a wire...lol

Here are a few update picts.

Picture frame Wood Medical equipment Floor Flooring


Blue Wood Gas Electric blue Composite material


Bumper Tool Machine tool Gas Machine
 

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#14 ·
Looks real good! Slow and easy can help a lot!
 
#15 ·
I know I may have broken a rule by changing the color, but its for my own personal use as this will most likely only see snow duties, so I though a nice mf blue and some extra white will liven things up a bit. I actually shot some pontiac and mistic blue but just was not happy with it so a complete color change it will be.

Off topic but the car in the back ground was last winters project

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Car Wheel
 

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#16 ·
Looking good.

Hopefully that broken wire is all the wrongs with the ignition. I had the same issue, got tractor running then module burnt up about 4 months later :boo_hoo:

What paint and colors are you using?
 
#17 ·
Im using Valspar implement paint , gloss white and MF blue aka ford tractor blue. I got mistic blue and pontiac blue shot a few pieces and just was not happy with it. With this last tractor package purchase I got 3 hh120 engines. one was running when parked and was said to have no spark. I found a rodents nest in that one a chewed wire. The next hh120 would not turn over due to an electrical problem but they yanked stuff off it to try and get the next one going. I found that the large battery wire was bad you can hook it to pos and neg on a fresh batter and cant get an arch. I am betting thats why they were scratching their heads and took out the ignition and starter and swapped from the other non running tractor. hoping I'll have another good SSI with this one. the last one is the hurting one it was all tore apart when I got it the main pulley is broken from someone whacking it with a hammer I am guessing and the set screws are round inside. it was repainted with acme paint from 2 inchs away on a cold and rainy day but has been sitting inside on a shop floor so its can be use able again someday if needed. Out of the 3 tractors I got I am only going to be restoring 2 of them one manual and one hydro. so far all starter motors are good all voltage regs are good who knows we will see with the ssi's but with any luck I'll know on one today...yesterday had leaf duty. speaking of a leaf vac for my simplicity would be nice!
 
#18 ·
Oh and a steering wheel I had to cut mine off to start the restore pb blaster for 3 days did not work and I didn't want to wait any longer put the puller on it till it messed up the plastic then had to cut it off. looking at the parts tractor I am not sure I'll get that one off either someone before me has tried.
 
#22 ·
Ok I want to keep the oem engine and have looked into overnight solutions and feel thats a good set up to go with. The only thing I don't like about it is flip a switch and then turn the key to start it. after its running to shut it off you shut it off by the grounded key switch and could possible fail to shut of the main power to the new ignition.

BTW I have read and understand the is a difference between the older SSI's and newer style SSi's I have the Older style HH120 .

Ok so now I am thinking of a way to make it a bit more user friendly and or dummy proof.

I don't really need an ignition key a start button would be just fine that would make it dummy proof as i can never remove or misplace the key. I see some L.E.D. toggles I am thinking I could use for the power that go out when they are off so that would help. and for a kill switch I am thinking something that is like a push button for the ground or even better a 3 way toggle of some sort.

I been looking into a 3 way toggle switch and was wondering if anyone knows if this can be done and how exactly. I'm wondering if i used a 3way toggle if the down position can be used just to supply a ground to kill the engine.

Being able to use the same switch to kill the engine is what I am trying to accomplish maybe a different ignition switch all together or a separate solenoid.

So here is where I am at, if anyone has been down this road and wants to help out I would sure appreciate it I will have new picts coming soon just have not had much time as I been getting my other 2 ready for wintah.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
I run my coil through a separate toggle switch. I spin the starter with ignition switch then throw the toggle. My main purpose for this though is my flywheel trigger is always in advance mode so I need to spin motor to build a few rpms before trying to fire or I can get kickback. When I shut down, I turn ignition off to insure I am not leaving battery on, then I flip toggle to kill motor. While it's an extra step, if I follow the same each time, it works fine.

Contact Dale and see how his system is wired exactly. Is he grounding out his ignition or just killing power? You may still be able to use factory switch depending on what his avenue of wiring is.

You maybe able to use push button to starter, then a toggle for ignition,...what about the charging circuit/battery, headlights, etc and how you going to put in a fail safe to make sure they get turned off?
 
#24 ·
That slipped my mind, I no longer need a kill switch to ground I need to interrupt power to the coil. so then that means I no longer need a grounded ignition switch.

If I don't need to ground to kill the engine anymore, I am thinking of a different ignition switch that would cut power to the coil when I shut it off, I know this would lead to adding in a starter solenoid as the oem switch is a hi amp large lead type.

Kickback was not even a thought , damn glad you mentioned it, I think that just killed my plan all together.

so if you turn your coil on and try to start it it won't unless the motors already spinning

oh BTW I was going to put in a relay in for the light switches , so that the relay would shut down all other circuits/switches once its main power was shut down. but if kickback is a concern Im back to the drawing board because I did not account for that.

ok need time to think .....I'll be back
 
#25 ·
ok wait a minute...I think this will work

Lets assume we have toggle switch in the up position it closes the circuit and provides the coil power and a start button that is wired direct so that no matter if the switch is on or off you can still turn the engine over, just a starter button.

When the switch is "on" it also add power to a relay that in turn provides power to the other switches ...lights so they will be on when the main switch come on. if you fail to shut down another switch no worry once you kill the engine and your relay loses power it shuts down everything else as well.

This would allow me to still crank the engine over with the power off then flip a da switch.

if you see a problem with this idea let me know.
 
#26 ·
I don't see why you couldn't have a push button to start then a main toggle switch for everything else. The toggle would basically be just like an ignition switch turn to on and run positions. Just make sure you get one with a higher rating even though you said you will have lights going through a relay, which is a good idea.

Kickback will not be an issue for you if you go with Dale's overnight solution. His is designed to replace the factory SSI module and works similar to it, I don't think you run a hot wire to it like you would on a battery coil system like Ed Stollers or even mine. I think his toggle works as a ground like the original system. As I stated, email him and ask how his system works to make sure.

The factory SSI module works off of two separate firing pins on the flywheel, one is at TDC for starting, the other is about 25* advanced for wide open throttle. It works off the hall effect as the gap and speed changes the module picks that up and fires correctly. In my system, I only have a single magnet glued into my flywheel that trips a micro switch which fires my coil, I have to spin the motor and then juice coil or I can get kickback which is not good, can break a rod like that.

Any of the systems out there you buy will not have the issue of kickback as they still use the Hall Effect sensors off the flywheel and both of the flywheel pins. Mine is a totally different type of sensor system so that's why I have to worry.
 
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