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My winter project


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#16 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 09:19 AM

Looking good.

Hopefully that broken wire is all the wrongs with the ignition. I had the same issue, got tractor running then module burnt up about 4 months later   :boo_hoo:

 

 

What paint and colors are you using?



#17 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 09:37 AM

Im using Valspar implement paint , gloss white and MF blue aka ford tractor blue. I got mistic blue and pontiac blue shot a few pieces and just was not happy with it. With this last tractor package purchase I got 3 hh120 engines. one was running when parked and was said to have no spark. I found a rodents nest in that one a chewed wire. The next hh120 would not turn over due to an electrical problem but they yanked stuff off it to try and get the next one going. I found that the large battery wire was bad you can hook it to pos and neg on a fresh batter and cant get an arch. I am betting thats why they were scratching their heads and took out the ignition and starter and swapped from the other non running tractor. hoping I'll have another good SSI with this one. the last one is the hurting one it was all tore apart when I got it the main pulley is broken from someone whacking it with a hammer I am guessing and the set screws are round inside. it was repainted with acme paint from 2 inchs away on a cold and rainy day  but has been sitting inside on a shop floor so its can be use able again someday if needed. Out of the 3 tractors I got I am only going to be restoring 2 of them  one manual and one hydro. so far all starter motors are good all voltage regs are good who knows we will see with the ssi's but with any luck I'll know on one today...yesterday had leaf duty. speaking of a leaf vac for my simplicity would be nice! 


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#18 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 09:46 AM

Oh and a steering wheel I had to cut mine off to start the restore pb blaster for 3 days did not work and I didn't want to wait any longer put the puller on it till it messed up the plastic then had to cut it off. looking at the parts tractor I am not sure I'll get that one off either someone before me has tried.


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#19 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 07:12 PM

Get some Acetone/ATF! That beats PB!



#20 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 08:04 PM

I second Kenny's ATF & Acetone advise I use it and it works great.



#21 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2015 - 08:46 AM

Can't get a spark from anything....looks like I maybe looking into an ssi conversion or a repower all together. 



#22 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2015 - 08:33 PM

Ok I want to keep the oem engine and have looked into overnight solutions and feel thats a good set up to go with. The only thing I don't like about it is flip a switch and then turn the key to start it. after its running to shut it off you shut it off by the grounded key switch and could possible fail to shut of the main power to the new ignition. 

 

BTW I have read and understand the is a difference between the older SSI's and newer style SSi's I have the Older style HH120 .

 

Ok so now I am thinking of a way to make it a bit more user friendly and or dummy proof.  

 

I don't really need an ignition key a start button would be just fine that would make it dummy proof  as i can never remove or misplace the key. I see some L.E.D. toggles I am thinking I could use for the power that go out when they are off so that would help. and for a kill switch I am thinking something that is like a push button for the ground or even better a 3 way toggle of some sort. 

 

I been looking into a 3 way toggle switch and was wondering if anyone knows if this can be done and how exactly. I'm wondering if i used a 3way toggle if the down position can be used just to supply a ground to kill the engine. 

 

Being able to use the same switch to kill the engine is what I am trying to accomplish maybe a different ignition switch all together or a separate solenoid. 

 

So here is where I am at, if anyone has been down this road and wants to help out I would sure appreciate it I will have new picts coming soon just have not had much time as I been getting my other 2 ready for wintah. 



#23 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 08:01 AM

I run my coil through a separate toggle switch. I spin the starter with ignition switch then throw the toggle. My main purpose for this though is my flywheel trigger is always in advance mode so I need to spin motor to build a few rpms before trying to fire or I can get kickback. When I shut down, I turn ignition off to insure I am not leaving battery on, then I flip toggle to kill motor. While it's an extra step, if I follow the same each time, it works fine.

 

Contact Dale and see how his system is wired exactly. Is he grounding out his ignition or just killing power? You may still be able to use factory switch depending on what his avenue of wiring is.

You maybe able to use push button to starter, then a toggle for ignition,...what about the charging circuit/battery, headlights, etc and how you going to put in a fail safe to make sure they get turned off?


Edited by TAHOE, November 24, 2015 - 08:03 AM.


#24 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 10:23 AM

That slipped my mind, I no longer need a kill switch to ground I need to interrupt power to the coil. so then that means I no longer need a grounded ignition switch. 

 

If I don't need to ground to kill the engine anymore, I am thinking of a different ignition switch that would cut power to the coil when I shut it off, I know this would lead to adding in a starter solenoid as the oem switch is a hi amp large lead type.  

 

 

Kickback was not even a thought , damn glad you mentioned it, I think that just killed my plan all together. 

 

so if you turn your coil on and try to start it it won't unless the motors already spinning 

 

 

oh BTW I was going to put in a relay in for the light switches , so that the relay would shut down all other circuits/switches once its main power was shut down. but if kickback is a concern Im back to the drawing board because I did not account for that. 

 

ok need time to think .....I'll be back 



#25 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 10:44 AM

ok wait a minute...I think this will work 

 

Lets assume we have toggle switch in the up position it closes the circuit and provides the coil power and a start button that is wired direct so that no matter if the switch is on or off you can still turn the engine over, just a starter button. 

 

When the switch is "on" it also add power to a relay that in turn provides power to the other switches ...lights so they will be on when the main switch come on. if you fail to shut down another switch no worry once you kill the engine and your relay loses power it shuts down everything else as well. 

 

This would allow me to still crank the engine over with the power off then flip a da switch. 

 

if you see a problem with this idea let me know. 



#26 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 12:24 PM

I don't see why you couldn't have a push button to start then a main toggle switch for everything else. The toggle would basically be just like an ignition switch turn to on and run positions. Just make sure you get one with a higher rating even though you said you will have lights going through a relay, which is a good idea.

 

Kickback will not be an issue for you if you go with Dale's overnight solution. His is designed to  replace the factory SSI module and works similar to it, I don't think you run a hot wire to it like you would on a battery coil system like Ed Stollers or even mine. I think his toggle works as a ground like the original system. As I stated, email him and ask how his system works to make sure.

 

The factory SSI module works off of two separate firing pins on the flywheel, one is at TDC for starting, the other is about 25* advanced for wide open throttle. It works off the hall effect as the gap and speed changes the module picks that up and fires correctly. In my system, I only have a single magnet glued into my flywheel that trips a micro switch which fires my coil, I have to spin the motor and then juice coil or I can get kickback which is not good, can break a rod like that.

Any of the systems out there you buy will not have the issue of kickback as they still use the Hall Effect sensors off the flywheel and both of the flywheel pins. Mine is a totally different type of sensor system so that's why I have to worry.



#27 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 01:44 PM

Well sweet that solves that issue.

 

I think I have a bigger one, I was just out in the garage and grabbed my transmission for the for time since I had dumped the fluids cleaned it all up and got it painted. Now that all my paints cured I was going to assemble some more. Well I started messing with the transmission and was spinning the main pulley as I was selecting between gears and no matter what gear your in you cannot get the rear axle to move.  I found that if I rotate the brake pulley it moves the rear axles but the main pulley will not rotate the brake pulley in return not turning the rear axles. I also find that the hi lo just does not seem to be engaging, shouldn't it click as it finds hi or low or have some kind of resting point this seems to unscrew so I didn't mess with it. 

 

At this point I am not installing the gear box and am pretty bummed thinking about taking this thing apart, oh man i hope this is not a bad tranny. please tell me there is a common woodruff key thats known to break and just save my day and that these cases come apart and go back together very easy....

 

 

still have picts coming its looking great , but starting to scare me.



#28 John Arsenault OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 05:51 PM

20151124_144511.jpg

20151124_144546.jpg

well this is the progress so far as you can see it has had plenty of time to dry wish the tranny would have spun it would have been back together today. I am not positive but thought this was a good trans. at one time i feel i spun the transmission pulley and it put torque to the rear wheels. I was tempted to just tear into it today as I was able to find there are some parts available. can this be an issue with the hi lo selector? I am thinking I may have damage it taking it apart , but I am not sure. 

 

 



#29 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2015 - 08:21 PM

looks nice



#30 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2015 - 08:33 AM

I haven't had one apart, not sure how they are driven.

If you put tires on the axles, put in hi/low gear then put shifter in a  gear, then roll it, the drive pulley should turn while rolling.

If not, then something inside is definitely awry.  






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