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Broken shift fork!


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#1 MichaelBeck OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 10:45 PM

Well, I solved the jumping clutch problem - Turns out my shift fork is broken.. I have started it as a new thread as this is really an issue in itself.

 

So:

1) As the pictures show, the LH  fork has failed. Does anyone know where to source one? There are no Bolens part tractors etc here to obtain one. 

2) What is the replacement process and are there any things i should attend to whilst it is apart? I have read about tightening the shifter - Is that the shift rods themselves or the actual gear lever?

3) I note that my first gear is quite worn, Its probably comparable to the gear pic i attached here - Not as burred or as bad though. Whats the recommendation on that, Clean it up and it should be okay for a hobby tractor that does not pull or work? Is this common to see this kind of wear?

 

The first 3 pics are from my tractor and the fourth is from another post, but comparable to my gear.

 

Thanks in advance.

Attached Thumbnails

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  • Bolens850Transaxle_12.jpg

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#2 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 11:11 PM

My opinion:  First your going to want to get that piece of the broken fork out of the gear case.  If you have a good welding shop, have them weld or braze the broken piece back on to the main fork.  If the operator don't force shift gears it should last a long time.

 

To get that fork off the shift rod you will have to remove the roll pin that holds the fork to the shift rod.  Remove the socket head screw on the left side that holds the outside spring and detent ball in place.  Slide the shift rod out towards the front of the case.  Re-assemble in reverse order.  A flat blade screwdriver may work better than the brazing rod I mentioned on your other post to hold the inside ball and spring in until the shift rod is back in place.

 

That 1st gear is not good at all, but when I replaced mine it was completely gone.  This is caused by not bringing the tractor to a complete stop before attempting to shift gears.  If the lack of 1st gear is not a problem, I would run it that way.  Can clean it up and get all the pieces out of the case before you fill it with oil again.  Don't have that pic any more or would attach it.  That kind of gear grinding is not uncommon as to many people want to shift on the fly.  That is OK with the syncromesh cut gears but not with straight cut gears like these all are.  Good luck with you project.  Will be a good learning experience for you.


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#3 MichaelBeck OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 11:16 PM

Thanks for the reply. 

If possible i would like to source a new/used shift fork that hasn't been rewelded before. How hard it is to source a new gear also - Wouldn't mind replacing the 1st gear and the larger gear 1st drives.

I personally haven't shifted on the fly (drive a non synchro truck so aware of how to shift these) but who knows how PO's have treated it.


Edited by MichaelBeck, October 13, 2015 - 11:19 PM.

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#4 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 11:56 PM

Check our sponsors for parts. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, October 14, 2015 - 05:57 AM.

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#5 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 06:24 AM

I had a welded shift fork in my 1050 that had broken a second time. I would try to source a good replacement from here or possibly eBay.

#6 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 06:26 AM

I got lucky when I found mine.  A guy had the unit from a 3 speed listed on eBay.  I asked if he had a good 3 gear unit for a 6 speed.  He did but hadn't taken it apart yet so nothing was listed form it. We struck a deal and I got the gears I needed.  Finding just the fork could be a problem as most salvage yards I know of want to sell the complete unit and not parts out of it.  I agree, it would be nice to have a replacement fork BUT, a welded one could last just as long or longer.  All depends on how good the guy running the welder is.

 

I wasn't insinuating you did the wrong shifting but like you mentioned, who knows how the PO(s) used it.


Edited by chieffan, October 14, 2015 - 06:30 AM.

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#7 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 06:46 AM

Check the PARTS forum section. There was a guy parting out a 750 a couple weeks ago and the shift forks should work.  Let me check a bucket of parts I got a year ago with a bunch of transaxle parts.  My have a couple shift forks in it.


Edited by chieffan, October 14, 2015 - 06:47 AM.


#8 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 07:25 AM

Just yesterday there was a set of 3 shift forks on ebay from a 1054, 17$.

Not sure if that is compatible with the 3 spds though...



#9 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 07:38 AM

Hi Mike,

I got your email and sent you a reply. I have the forks and gears in stock just send me a list of all you need and I will get you a price on it all.


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#10 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 07:59 AM

For a 3 speed I'd say thats not too bad for 40+ years of shifting abuse, I personally would not replace the gears at this time as they still have life in them

 

If you have a good welder close by they can be re-welded but it appears yours were done a few times already, I know I got new ones here but will take a look as I remember having a bucket of nice used ones as well some where


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#11 MichaelBeck OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 02:18 PM

Thanks for the replys folks, Hopefully the tractor will be going again soon. Actually!? Bolens1000? I thought those gears were pretty bad!. I very very rarely use 1st though so its not a major. 

Would you guys recommend pulling the gears to clean out the case?



#12 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 03:18 PM

 

To get that fork off the shift rod you will have to remove the roll pin that holds the fork to the shift rod.  Remove the socket head screw on the left side that holds the outside spring and detent ball in place.  Slide the shift rod out towards the front of the case.  Re-assemble in reverse order.  A flat blade screwdriver may work better than the brazing rod I mentioned on your other post to hold the inside ball and spring in until the shift rod is back in place.

 

 

 

 

An easier way to accomplish this is to slide a 1/2" bolt in from the rear of the case, as you are withdrawing the shift rail from the front.  ...Keep pressure against the end of the rail with the bolt.

 

This will hold the detent ball & spring in place while the rail/rod is removed, and you do NOT have to remove the ball & spring from under the set screw..   

 

When re-installing, let the shift rail push the bolt out to the rear, so the ball & spring stay in place. 


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