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Engine died out under load after about 15-20 minutes


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#16 ODN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 05:10 PM

Say, how did you get my head out of my shop !!!!! It seems I had the same trouble years ago with my Mf14. Noel

Noel, did you ever figure out how it happened?  Or did you just put a new head on it?  I'm worried if I don't tear it down and have a thorough look at the engine, I may end up with another hole in a replacement head.

 

Derek


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#17 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 07:07 PM

I figued it was a stuck exhaust valve, but only when hot. Mine did the same thing. Run for a short time, then start acting up, then quit. Shut every thing off, then restart it. Worked good, started good, so continue on, within a few minutes, same thing again. If I just drove it around with no load, it worked fine. Put transmission oil in the engine oil ever since and no more trouble. Cleaned up every thing, the transmission oil. Noel.

Don't know what else to tell you. Took me weeks to figure it out and end it. And this may not be the case with yours, but some thing to look at. I never took the the engine apart.

Amazing how your head and mine are the same.
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#18 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 07:53 PM

Must be a hot spot, or detonation point if timing too far advanced. ???

 

Two heads with the same defect/problem, others must have had this trouble also.

Be interesting to know for sure what caused it.


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#19 ODN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 08:11 PM

Well, Doug, that's one of the things I've read online that can cause detonation.  www.mikuni.com/tg_detonation.html  Points and timing are definitely to be checked.

 

I think the issue Noel identifies is another possible cause of detonation, too.  The engine did get so hot it seemed to smoke, although given the hole in the head, that "smoke" was likely heat escaping through the hole in the head.  But I'm amazed how the two heads look almost identical, both in the shape of the hole and the location of it.  I'm thinking that my engine may have a sticky exhaust valve, too, especially because my tractor had little use for the past 5 years due to the health of the previous owner.  Things will start to freeze up from lack of use.

 

On another topic, since the engine has been rebuilt once, it'll be interesting to see if the balance gears were put back into the engine.  From what I've read, almost anyone who rebuilds these engines recommends leaving the balance gears out. 

 

Derek


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#20 MFDAC OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 09:41 PM

Pretty crazy you and Noel have the same damage on the head, Derek! If that spark plug in your head is the one you were running, it sure looks like an extremely lean fuel mixture. That will make hot spots to the point of possibly melting things, especially thinner aluminum areas. Your pic has the lighting about right to see deep into the porcelain recess, and it looks pure white all the way. Maybe there's a restriction in the fuel somewhere?

 

DAC


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#21 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 03:50 AM

Late timing will cause the engine to run hot. Noel

Weird the same tractor too !!!!

Edited by propane1, October 28, 2015 - 03:52 AM.

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#22 ODN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 05:20 AM

Pretty crazy you and Noel have the same damage on the head, Derek! If that spark plug in your head is the one you were running, it sure looks like an extremely lean fuel mixture. That will make hot spots to the point of possibly melting things, especially thinner aluminum areas. Your pic has the lighting about right to see deep into the porcelain recess, and it looks pure white all the way. Maybe there's a restriction in the fuel somewhere?

 

DAC

 

Late timing will cause the engine to run hot. Noel

Weird the same tractor too !!!!

 

He replaced the carb on it, not sure how long ago, and said it was adjusted by a small engine mechanic.  It started easily, ran well (albeit with a slight engine knock at high speeds), would go from full throttle to idle without so much as a sputter, so it seemed to be well adjusted.  Once I have a head for it, I'll do a better valve inspection, check points and replace/set as necessary, check timing, set up carb, fresh oil, and add either some transmission oil to the crankcase to loosen things up and/or try the Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas that Rick suggested in the first reply.  I don't have a heated garage, so if I can avoid stripping it down at this time of year, I'd prefer it.  I am concerned about that engine knock, though.

 

Derek


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#23 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2015 - 05:48 AM

Depend on the noise. Some of my engines have knocks or ticks and have been like that for years. Some sound like they are going to fly apart any minute, but I had a nice running kohler 12 hp without any noise and it split the piston in half. Broke at the oil ring groove. Noel
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