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Bringing the 900 back to life


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#16 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 02:43 PM

Good work! These 900's are nice tractors - I'm in the same positions as you with the brake drum missing, I actually stopped using the tractor because of this. I'm afraid to take the transmission cover off to look at the gears.

Do you have a trick to remove these old rusted exhaust elbows without breaking them?

 

Yeah, I dont know how they ever left the factory without brake drums, especially when they used them on the husky 600's already!

The tranny's are usually pretty ugly on the models without the brakes, the gears in mine are basically new as my Grandfather replaced them in the 90's while they were still available through Bolens.  Hopefully your previous owner stopped fully before shifting.

 

Muffler elbows:

Most of the time you can get a pipe wrench on them and do a couple taps with a hammer and they will break free, if not dont press your luck, if its real rusty just cut the elbow right off leaving about 1/2'' sticking out the block, then take a hacksaw blade and cut the remaining bit of pipe just above the threads, take a cold chisel and punch in the pipe where you cut it and it will either break free and you can unthread or if not make another cut and try again

 

Someone made a good thread with pics on how to do this method.

 

http://gardentractor...ler-nipple-r123


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#17 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2015 - 09:10 PM

Why remove the elbow unless it's broken?

 

If you really need to remove it, be very careful because too much pressure can actually break off a chunk of the block.  :(  :wallbanging:


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#18 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2015 - 08:04 PM

Well in my case the elbow on my 800 is actually fabricated from plumbing piping and its UGLY.
I bought the correct elbow from Brian a few weeks back and need to fit it.
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#19 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2015 - 07:25 AM

Why remove the elbow unless it's broken?

 

If you really need to remove it, be very careful because too much pressure can actually break off a chunk of the block.  :(  :wallbanging:

Ever watch a plumber remove a well pipe that has been down in the water and connected for years?  Hold a heavy hard object (I use a 3 lb blacksmith hammer) to one side of the elbow and beat on it with another hammer several times.  Go as far around the joint as you can.  Don't get carried away with the beating though.  Just good solid blows is enough.  Most of the time the joint will unscrew.  Those threads are not a real close tolerance cut.  That is why they made pipe dope for gas and water lines.


Edited by chieffan, October 20, 2015 - 07:26 AM.

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#20 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2015 - 07:52 AM

Ever watch a plumber remove a well pipe that has been down in the water and connected for years?  Hold a heavy hard object (I use a 3 lb blacksmith hammer) to one side of the elbow and beat on it with another hammer several times.  Go as far around the joint as you can.  Don't get carried away with the beating though.  Just good solid blows is enough.  Most of the time the joint will unscrew.  Those threads are not a real close tolerance cut.  That is why they made pipe dope for gas and water lines.

 

All true, except on Wisconsin engines the female threads are part of the block.



#21 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 06:17 PM

Got the old girl running and all together :bounce:

All thats left is getting the starter hooked back up , had it going a few days ago then was trying to adjust the voltage regulator as it was overcharging at  16 volts, must have accidentally touched something and the wires all melted from the starter button to regulator!

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#22 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 06:54 PM

Looks in really nice shape, are you thinking about recovering that seat?

#23 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:03 PM

Looks in really nice shape, are you thinking about recovering that seat?

 

I would like to someday with the original pleats on the cover. Do you have a good pattern?



#24 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:25 PM

No I don't, but when I picked up the spare pan/seat a few weeks back it had 50% of the cover still attached and it appeared very similar to the 1050/850 seats, other than being shaped in a bowl type seat.

#25 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:29 PM

Those Armid fiber Kevlar Belts are pretty darn good.I just got my 1st red belt for the old Sears.It took a bit longer to break it in but once it did it grabs hard and don't slip.It's also a really quiet and Cool running belt.The old sears takes a 5/8x82 belt.

Got a good deal on one with a $10 off TSC coupon $22 with tax but had to spend $50 or more so I got a couple bags of warm socks to.Can't ever have enough warm socks lol



#26 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:33 PM

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#27 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 07:34 PM

Those Armid fiber Kevlar Belts are pretty darn good.I just got my 1st red belt for the old Sears.It took a bit longer to break it in but once it did it grabs hard and don't slip.It's also a really quiet and Cool running belt.The old sears takes a 5/8x82 belt.

Got a good deal on one with a $10 off TSC coupon $22 with tax but had to spend $50 or more so I got a couple bags of warm socks to.Can't ever have enough warm socks lol

 

I been trying to tell you sears guys :poke:

If you need anymore I am a dealer :D :thumbs:


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#28 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 11:27 PM

 

29 Chev is the guy to make a repro cover






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