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Fuel pump replacement


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#1 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2015 - 06:15 PM

Craftsman II GT, 18 hp Briggs opposed twin.

Fuel pump crapped out 1/2 mile from home...long hand push home but got 'er done. 

Suggestions for a replacement pump? Electric or the stand alone diaphragm type like the one on it now?

Wondering if this may have been the problem all along with the loping, hard to adjust idle etc.

 



#2 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2015 - 06:22 PM

I would stick with the pulse pumps, plenty available. http://www.ebay.com/...pulse-fuel-pump


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#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2015 - 07:18 PM

Does that have the Fuel pump built into the Carb? Most Opposed twin briggs engines used the 3 bolt pump that is built into the carb.

 

You can rebuild the carb and Fuel pump for around $20.

 

Need the Model numbers off of the engine to get you the correct kit but I would just rebuild it.

 

If it does have an external fuel pump it may also be rebuildable.


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#4 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2015 - 09:55 PM

Does that have the Fuel pump built into the Carb? Most Opposed twin briggs engines used the 3 bolt pump that is built into the carb.

 

You can rebuild the carb and Fuel pump for around $20.

 

Need the Model numbers off of the engine to get you the correct kit but I would just rebuild it.

 

If it does have an external fuel pump it may also be rebuildable.

It's stand alone, mounted on firewall, or whatever the partition is between the engine and battery/PTO area, PO removed the carb mounted pump. 

I'll check it out tomorrow, and hope that is in fact the problem.  Pulled the line off, blew through it, gas shot out when pressure was released, and nothing is being pulled into the filter while cranking, thus the opinion of pump going bad.

Things don't seem too spendy so contemplating just replacing it.

Thanks for the reply.



#5 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2015 - 11:38 PM

Try blowing through the Filter?

If it's a paper element filter it may be to restricted.Paper element filters tend to tighten up with age and restrict flow.

 

These pumps seem to last longer with Ethanol fuel.They have a single diaphragm and 2 rubber disks for valves.

http://www.ebay.com/...g-/191631739554

 

I just put one of these on my old Sears SS14 to replace the original pump.It works good even on an old 2 piece flow jet carb.


Edited by EricFromPa, October 11, 2015 - 11:41 PM.

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#6 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 09:06 AM

Try blowing through the Filter?

If it's a paper element filter it may be to restricted.Paper element filters tend to tighten up with age and restrict flow.

 

These pumps seem to last longer with Ethanol fuel.They have a single diaphragm and 2 rubber disks for valves.

http://www.ebay.com/...g-/191631739554

 

I just put one of these on my old Sears SS14 to replace the original pump.It works good even on an old 2 piece flow jet carb.

Getting into it in a few minutes. But was wondering, would it be possible to do an overkill on a replacement pump, as in too much pressure/volume jamb the float needle?

Never use ethanol fuel in any of my small engines, stuff destroys fuel lines has been the experience.

Will get the model number off the pump and check out a rebuild kit although these, once nimble, hands are somewhat impaired now.  Probably be easier to replace filter and pump together.

Thanks for the reply.


Edited by Phluphy, October 12, 2015 - 09:06 AM.


#7 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 11:19 AM

Yes to much fuel pressure will overrun the float and needle.


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#8 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 01:40 PM

Really stumped now!

Put the vac pump on both sides of pump body, blocking off ports as needed.

Pulled a good vacuum both ways.

Put vac gauge on engine vac line, not a lot of vacuum but assume enough thinking it doesn't require a lot to operate the diaphragm.

Did notice considerable fine particles in pump body so thinking filter is not doing it's job.

Possibly a simple filter replacement would do it?

Forget the model of Walbro pump...but noticed there were two rubber valves in it.

Is there perhaps a better pump?

Thanks for the replies.


Edited by Phluphy, October 12, 2015 - 01:43 PM.


#9 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 02:22 PM

As an after-thought...anyone know how much vac it should be pulling from the engine side?



#10 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 04:01 PM

Not a vacume, rather a pulse that is created in the crankcase with piston movements, hence the name pulse pump.


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#11 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 04:04 PM

Should, dosn't take much to make them pump.


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#12 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 04:07 PM

Not a vacume, rather a pulse that is created in the crankcase with piston movements, hence the name pulse pump.

 

Should, dosn't take much to make them pump.

Got it.  Yes there is very little movement but still movement. 

Back to the shop to look for a filter and put it all back together.

One question...do those diaphragms stretch, lose function?  There appears to be no holes in them and they do hold a vacuum. 

Thanks for the reply.


Edited by Phluphy, October 12, 2015 - 04:13 PM.


#13 Phluphy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 05:23 PM

Well, now I've really screwed the pooch!

Should have taken a photo before doing anything.

As recalled the intake line slipped right off the pump nipple, the line to carb was on bottom nipple of pump.  Problem is, without forcefully moving the two remaining lines...vac line and fuel inlet, things are not going together smoothly. 

There are two plastic nipples on pump and one brass...when everything was taken apart it all lined up but now the line from tank is going to kink a bit if I go with what I see. It's like something is 180 from where it should be.  And of course it's not OEM so there is no diagram in the book.

Anyone have a clue as to what I am trying to describe here?  Having aphasia and MS doesn't help when trying to explain things.



#14 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 06:06 PM

The brass nipple should be the Vacuum line and the other 2 should have small arrows cast into the pump body near the nipples.1 pointing in and the other pointing out.

 

 

What for filter is on it?Is it one of those clear plastic paper element filters? I'm always having problems with those.I usually just put one of the small cheap red briggs filters on mine.They don't restrict flow nearly as much as the paper element filters.

 

These filters are junk.I won't ever run another one like these.Not sure what causes it but the paper element gets tight over time and restricts fuel flow.You can really tell because they will only fill about 1/2 full.

 

100_1492.JPG

 

 

Here's the pump on my SS14.Temporarily used the original lines until I pick up new fuel hose and re-route it.

100_1489.JPG

 

 


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#15 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 06:35 PM

I had the firewall pump on my Craftsman II "Hulk II" and I converted to a carb mounted pump. These seem to be more common. As for the clear filters, I like them, lets me know if I have a plugged line or dirty filter. And the Roper 20T has an OEM pump, but kinda weird as it has two inputs and two outputs. not sure why.

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