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Pulling The 1978 MTD 990 In For Winter Project


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#31 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2015 - 03:44 PM

Spent time on the drive shaft. The ends of the shaft were worn and tapered so it was loose on each u-joint. Bought a 3/4" cold rolled rod and drilled a non-precision hole in each end. Worked on it until the spring pins would fit with some degree of tightness. Installed the shaft and it should be good to go.

 

Replaced the transaxle seal and that was an easy fix. Spent a lot of time getting the other hub off of the axle, which was rusted on. It would have slipped off if that seal was a leaker too.

 

Started it up and the hydro works good.

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Edited by VTXrider, October 26, 2015 - 03:45 PM.

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#32 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 01:02 PM

Got new battery cables and wired up a temporary start and kill switch.

 

Leaky carb due to worn float valve. I had a used one that so far is holding. A rebuild kit is needed.

 

Ordered a new cooling fan for the transaxle.

 

Drove it around the yard to see what would fall off.

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#33 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2015 - 08:51 PM

The starter/generator was a starter but not a generator. Found that one field winding was open. Pulled the other S/G apart and checked that it was good. Someone had replaced the small terminals with 1/4" bolts that were too short and used soft rubber washers as insulators.

 

Went to Ace HW and bought some nylon and fiber washers. I made two through hole insulators from small phenolic hollow rod. Longer bolts and washers on both sides of the housing did the job.

 

Mounted the S/G and output is good.

 

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#34 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2015 - 07:21 AM

In earlier pictures of the engine, the dip stick bracket is bolted to the bracket for the muffler shield. It is suppose to be under the nearest head bolt. The difference in height is over an inch which means the oil level would be over-filled. I wonder if this has damaged the engine and is the cause of it smoking so much? I have not checked the blow-by filter yet but will do so when the carb kit is installed.

 

I moved the dip stick down to it's proper location and changed the oil, adding some MMO as suggested.

 

Noticed the lift cylinder is leaking. :ah_shoot:

Any comments are welcome.


Edited by VTXrider, October 29, 2015 - 07:25 AM.


#35 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2015 - 11:47 AM

Removed the lift cylinder without difficulty. The clevis and shaft threads were stripped and it was welded on. Many of these also break because of a poor design. Pulled the piston and shaft end bushing and seal out of the housing. The piston was also welded onto the shaft. The cylinder is only good for a few parts so it goes into the parts pile.

 

I have another rebuilt cylinder from the 73 990. Information about the new shaft is here. http://www.mytractor...-mtd-990-a.html

That is now on the tractor and is not leaking.

 

Note: The clevis connection is a shoulder bolt with washers on each side of of the slotted rock shaft arm. The head of the bolt should be towards the frame of the tractor. When it is installed wrong, the end of the bolt sticks out and crashes into the lift carriage. Thus it can break the clevis off the cylinder shaft or mess up the threads. The picture shows the wrong way for the bolt to be installed. You can also see where the bolt hits the lift linkage and worn a slot into it.

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Edited by VTXrider, October 29, 2015 - 01:24 PM.

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#36 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2015 - 05:11 PM

In earlier pictures of the engine, the dip stick bracket is bolted to the bracket for the muffler shield. It is suppose to be under the nearest head bolt. The difference in height is over an inch which means the oil level would be over-filled. I wonder if this has damaged the engine and is the cause of it smoking so much?

 

I would say that too much oil will cause it to smoke more, the crank is going to be splashing the oil around more.


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#37 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2015 - 11:06 AM

The motion control lever was nearly worn through from both sides of the guide bracket. Used the torch and some filler rod to build it up and then ground and sanded it to shape. The 1/4" pivot hole was worn oblong so I brazed the hole full and drilled a new hole.

 

The tension spring is broken/missing to keep the lever in the neutral slot. As seen in another thread, I used the wood block and o-ring method to create the tension needed. 3 or 4  1" X 3/4  o-rings works good.

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#38 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 10:36 AM

Installed the new fan. I think mechanically, it is looking pretty good. The engine smokes but it seems to have power so it will stay until it gets worse.

 

 

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#39 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2015 - 03:49 PM

70 degree days means it's good to paint the black parts. Cleaned, repaired and sanded. The muffler shroud was cracked in 5 places so I brazed on both sides, hoping it will hold. Prepped the tunnel pan for painting tomorrow.

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#40 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 01:59 PM

Painted the tunnel and washed the fenders, hood and grill. Painted the grill and headlight bezel red. The fenders and hood need a lot of work before painting.

 

Ordered an extra set of front wheel bushings. https://www.grainger...d-Bearing-2NCL8

 

I had a set of wheel weights from a parted out GT5000. They fit these rims like they are made for them. Used a 1-1/4" hole saw to make room for the valve stem. Drilled about 3/4" deep in the slot on the weights for the valve stem.

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Edited by VTXrider, November 03, 2015 - 06:08 PM.

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#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 06:21 AM

Nice looking 990! Are those 55 lb. weights?


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#42 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 08:36 AM

Nice looking 990! Are those 55 lb. weights?

Thanks. Yes and they are about all I can handle getting them on the wheels. 55 lbs seems heavier than it used to.


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#43 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 08:40 AM

Try 75 lbs.! I have a set of those!



#44 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2015 - 03:38 PM

These warm November days are great for working outside. The tunnel, seat, footrests and grill are mounted. I put the fenders on but will paint them with the hood later.

 

The engine was miss-firing and hard to start. Traced it to the points, condenser and the kill wire connection. They were all loose.

 

The amp meter was acting like a loose wire somewhere. Traced that to the new paint job on the grill not getting a good ground for the regulator. I ran a wire from the grounded attachment bolt to the battery negative, which had a separate crimp wire handy for such a connection.

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Edited by VTXrider, November 04, 2015 - 05:27 PM.

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#45 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2015 - 03:19 PM

Did some of the smaller jobs today. The steering wheel was cracked in a few places. Used Devcon Epoxy to fill in and repair the cracks. Painted the center hub of the steering wheel red.

 

Lowes has a sticky back stair tread anti-slip sandpaper sheet that I read about in another thread. Used it for the foot rests.

 

The tire chains were very rusty so I dipped them in drain oil and let the oil run off for a few hours. Installed them and some tighteners. The tires are not the best but I think they will do ok with the weights and chains.

 

The seat had three cracks. Not too bad for it's age. I used Locktite rubber adhesive to fill in under and on top. The seat cleaned up nice too.

 

Had a thicker and smaller 73' 990 air/heat deflector I installed on the engine.

 

Made a replacement plastic for the gas cap. Used a thin sheet that cut with scissors and then belt sanded to press fit.

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Edited by VTXrider, November 05, 2015 - 04:42 PM.

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