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Finishing what I started in 1992


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#61 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2016 - 06:19 AM

I don't know, Al, the inside of the front bucket looks pretty ugly to me.  :poke:

 

Shouldn't it be the same color as the outside of the bucket?  :D

 

Otherwise, it looks good!  :thumbs:

 

I hope to see you at Jacktown this weekend.


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#62 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2016 - 08:52 AM

Looks good. Now bring it down here so I can give it a workout. 


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#63 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2016 - 05:52 AM

The p/s pump seal kit came this past week so yesterday had some time to put the pump back together . I guess it was better that the seal went because there was so much rust in the pump the gear shafts were pretty rusted and pitted . Not much I could do other then cleaning and polishing with some emery cloth. Might try to blow out the lines and steering valve , maybe by raising the front wheels off the ground and turning the wheels back and forth will open the valve to let the air flow to the steering cylinders
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#64 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2016 - 08:03 PM

The p/s pump is on lines blew out , not sure if all the old fluid came out but better then nothing . I installed a new voltage regulator but still not charging correctly . The dash light is glowing dim and battery only 12.4v running . I thought when I put battery voltage on the "f" terminal it started charging so figured a new regulator was all needed but there wasn't any voltage on the "f" terminal today so have to do a little more troubleshooting
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#65 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 08:15 AM

Now I'm really confused lol  I thought the field wire needed 12 volts for the generator to charge but what I just read was the opposite . Grounded to charge ,  I'll have to go back to the shop manual again and study more  


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#66 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 09:18 AM

Now I'm really confused lol  I thought the field wire needed 12 volts for the generator to charge but what I just read was the opposite . Grounded to charge ,  I'll have to go back to the shop manual again and study more  

Do you have this manual? And right above it is a regulator manual.


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#67 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 10:39 AM

Thanks Kenny I did down load those at one time , they might help even though they are for Delco regulators it looks like they wire them the same . Good learning experience that I don't want lol  


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#68 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 05:46 PM

I assume :( your tractor is 12v neg ground, Al ?? 

 

Ford used "A" circuit generators and "B" circuit generators, so depending on what you have, the regulator has to be matched to that style.

 

One style requires grounding the field, and the other requires energizing the field, to initiate charging current.

 

Ford 6v tractors were positive ground, but the 12v tractors were all negative ground.

 

There is a Ford publication at the link provided which may be helpful.  ...Both 6v and 12v testing is shown, so be certain you are following the correct procedure.

 

http://www.ntractorc...l Diagnosis.pdf


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#69 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 05:49 AM

Its 12v negative ground . I grounded the field terminal and didn't make a difference . Here's a wiring diag. of a Delco regulator , I think it's the same as mine . Still can't figure out the generator charges to pull  the cutout coil in ?

regulator.jpg


Edited by Alc, October 25, 2016 - 05:50 AM.


#70 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 05:15 AM

Things aren't getting better. I didn't get to work on the charging issue but figured at worse just keep putting a battery charger on when needed . I really wanted to get this tractor to my sons place to dig out a few small trees and level some fill he got delivered where he wants his pole barn . I knew I would be chasing hydraulic hoses but that's part of owning an old machine unless you spent a small fortune replacing all . I had one small job to do before taking it there , things were going smooth until oil started leaking out the top of the steering column ,seal on the control valve must have blown . Ok get this job done then make a by pass around the valve so the pump won't burn up . No power steering but I could still get the job done at my sons . Half hour later the engine died . Maybe there wasn't enough gas in the tank , added some ,it started but still not running right , found a plug wire popped off . Good easy fix I thought , started up again a little better then died again . I gave up because it was getting dark ,I was tired , hungry and getting cranky.
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#71 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 10:10 AM

What model Ford is that. For years Fords had a problem with their engines wanting to fowl plugs. They used to recommend Champion H10 plugs. Then it was recommended to use AutoLite 216's but they still tended to foul. Especially #1 cylinder. Now they suggest AutoLite 437 plugs as being hot enough. I'm going through this with my Ford 850 as I write this. 

My Son has the tractor at his place and I used it the other day to load Horse manure for the garden. Sure enough went to start it and #1 was dead. Pulled the plug wire off the plug about an 1/8th of an inch and it started firing. Just held it there for a few seconds and it ran fine after that. Hopefully when he installs the new plugs it will be good to go.  I know that this was a problem with the 600 through 800 series tractors and might affect yours. 


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#72 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 07:43 PM

Chris I'm not sure what plug # is in it but will check . I did get it running long enough to finish the little job I had started . Thought I would check the fuel strainer of course the gasket fell apart lol . The p/s leak seems to be a problem they even have a repair kit with a speedie sleeve for the steering shaft if needed
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#73 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 09:00 PM

Used a lot of those speedie sleeves and had excellent results.  :thumbs:



#74 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2016 - 07:27 PM

My gasket I made for the fuel strainer leaked so laid underneath only find a small piece of old gasket causing the problem but made a new gasket anyway . With that fixed I wanted to work on the running problem, started and ran smooth when I wanted to raise the rpm's and put a load by curling the bucket until relief pressure a hose blew ! So that ended that . I was thinking about the p/s seal leaking up the column and thought why not try sealing at the top of the column . Pulled the wheel and dug out the old split bronze bearing and what seemed like dried out rubber on the outside . The shaft is pretty rough but will see how far down until it looks good enough to keep the seal from ripping . I ordered 3 seals to stack one on the other but will need something to center the shaft .
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#75 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2016 - 06:38 AM

post-1094-0-57292000-1479728291.jpg

 

 

Again the pics from the phone are sideways lol .  Anyway , I could only clean the rusty shaft a little so I don't expect this repair to last too long but if we can do a few jobs yet at my house and my son's I'll dig into it in spring .   Before I put the seals in , I put as much grease down the column then packed grease after each seal , then the bronze bearing and a steel sleeve for it to rub against .  I didn't run it to long but so far so good .  

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Edited by KennyP, November 21, 2016 - 06:53 AM.
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