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My newest acquisitions, first time Bolens owner.

1050 1225 snowcaster rototiller sickle bar

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#16 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 02:20 PM

Congrats on a nice acquisition. The Bolens are heavy and tough but the stearing can get stiff if the column isn't lubed well and properly. Next time that you are out here we can look at abunch of my Bolens and attachments. Good Luck, Rick

The steering on the 1225 is very stiff, he used the 1050 mostly.



#17 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 02:20 PM

Ummmmm....is that the 1225 that was on ebay that we were talking about how nutty the seller was with his response to the questions?

Nope, CL add form Albany area.



#18 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 02:21 PM

That is a nice haul, I remember coming across that add on CL about a month ago - I'm surprised it was up for grabs for that long although his pictures and description were very bad so that did not help the sale, it was well priced and as the others have said attachments look in good shape. 

Yes it might be the same ad, only one pic and a quick description. 



#19 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 02:22 PM

Congrats on your purchase !! 

 

That seat cushion on the 1225 looks original and in great condition. 

Yes it's almost perfect, he didn't use the1225 as much as the 1050



#20 gardentractornut OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 04:19 PM

Nice haul!


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#21 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 06:21 PM

Thanks , I did see that pin, it's going to take a lot of penetrating fluid to get that out without damaging something.

 

I will suggest one thing you could try to get it to move that may work without doing damage. Support the tractor and remove the right rear tire. Safety First - wear safety glasses and gloves. Make sure that all things flammable are safely out of the way and put a cloth soaked with cold water around the axle where the ear is (this should keep things cool at the axle as you heat the ear).  Remove the pin clip if it is still in the pin and will come out - try turning it sideways with a pair of pliers or vise grips to see if it is free in the hole of the pin - if it is seized then leave it for now.  Have a large squirt bottle of cold water handy as well as a fire extinguisher and heat the ear around the pin with a MAP gas or oxy / acetylene torch - concentrate the heat on the ear and not the pin and work your way back and forth from side to side.  After about three or four minutes of heating, shut the torch off and spray the pin liberally with the cold water from the squirt bottle - be prepared for some steam and sizzling.  Take a break for a few minutes while things cool and then clamp a small pair of vise grips on the head of the pin and gently try to turn it around in the hole - first one way and then the other.  It may not move in which case you can repeat the heating / cooling process.  If you feel the slightest movement then things are going your way and you can spray some penetrating fluid around the pin and continue to move the pin around - each time you turn it back and forth you should gain a little in the rotation.  If the spring clip is seized in the pin you can heat the pin where the clip goes through it and then cool it with cold water and try turning it with a small pair of vise grips - again once you get a little movement you can spray it with some penetrating fluid.  Once the clip is out of the pin you can continue to rotate the pin back and forth until you can turn it all the way around inside the ear.  Once you have a full rotation then you can put a little side pressure on the vise grips as you rotate the pin and it should start to slice sideways out of the drive hub.  Once it is free then lubricate it with never seize or grease and slide it back and forth once or twice a year.  If the ear does break it is not the end of the world as it can be built up with a mig welder or repaired with JB weld or some people use a hose clamp around the hub to hold the pin in the engaged position.  Good luck - hope this helps and as I stated earlier SAFETY FIRST.  


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#22 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 07:03 PM

The square back tiller is the heavy duty one,about undistructable, the round back is a light duty,weren't the best design,seem to break a lot easier (IMO)
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#23 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 08:13 PM

I like using my 1050 for tilling, and my 1225 for snow blowing.  When I tried tilling with the 1225 I had a hard time keeping a constant speed whenever the till caught hard ground it would push forward and id let up on the pedal then it stop, so it was always a fight back and forth.  The 1050 was just pick a gear and range and go.  It was just the opposite for blowing snow, the variable speed of the 1225 was nice for changing snow depth and load conditions, the 1050 was either to fast or to slow.  The 1225 with the snow caster has been the best set up ive had for keeping the drive clean, i've had walk behinds, truck with a plow, and a blade set up, nothing was faster or cleaner.  Just my 2 cents :-)  Have fun with you new equipment.


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: 1050, 1225, snowcaster, rototiller, sickle bar

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