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stuck set screws


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#1 thom OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 02:21 PM

I need to remove the two-groove pulley from the driveshaft on my Bolens G9 , as well as a couple of collars on other shafts. Although I haven't actually tried them with an "allen wrench" yet , I will be suprised if they screw out. I seem to remember trying to drill out set screws before and found that they were very hard. I can split the collars on the shafts and replace them with new collars, but I need to save the special pulley. Anybody else had to drill out setscrews? Thanks.



#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 02:52 PM

There was a thread yesterday with a clever way to solve your problem. Good Luck, Rick

 

 

Here it is:  http://gardentractor...ws/#entry613144


Edited by boyscout862, October 04, 2015 - 02:53 PM.

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#3 backyardtinker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 05:20 PM

I didn't have too much of a problem removing the set screws and collars on my Bolens steering shaft by simply using PB Blaster and letting them soak, then using heat from the propane torch. I did have to use my air impact hammer to get the collars off the shaft  though but it wasn't all that bad.



#4 Eric ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 05:46 PM

I agree with the previous, don't drill unless absolutely necessary. I read an article lately that said a home concoction of trans fluid and vinegar works far better than store bought pb blaster. At least I think that's the combination, you'll have to look that up! Let it soak overnight and give it a try, after that mapp gas for heat on the pulley not the shaft and some buggering it should come off! An impact gun or hammedrill may help also. Good luck.

#5 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 06:33 PM

Allen (hex) screws are one of the few things I have never had trouble with!

Prep is critical- Clean out the socket and make sure you're wrench has a tight fit. Remember that there are both us and metric hex sets and one may "kinda" fit without being the correct one. Spray with PB Blaster or a penetrating oil and let sit overnight.

Don't use cheap tools! I bought a good set of 1/4 and 3/8 hex sockets that fit my socket wrench. I prefer those to the l shaped allen wrenches. I have a better feel of what is happening with the socket wrench, but that's just me..... Cheap allen wrenches may round out or break, but never had any trouble with good ones (SK, Mac, etc...)

I usually have more trouble with the pulley not wanting to come off after he hex comes out! Worst case, repeated rounds of heat, penetrating oil and soak time usually gets them off.

Good luck!

As to your original question about drilling them out - never done it so can't help....

#6 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 07:02 PM

Dito on the PB Blaster and use quality allen wrenches or drive sockets.  I have tiered a couple of the concoctions for penetrating fluids and non of them are worth the time it takes to put them together.  Use good ole BP-Blaster as it will work.



#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 07:08 PM

:ditto:

What the others have said, PB blaster and time are your most important things, letting the stuff soak a night or two will do wonders



#8 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 07:25 PM

If your concerned about them coming out try this. Soak them with a good penetrating oil.
The socket mounted Allen wrenches are one of my favorites.
Because you can put an extent ion in and rap the extent ion a few times before you put the wrench on.
That helps to break the bond. They should come easily. If not try spraying again with the penetrating oil, and rap the extent ion a few more times. "Never under estimate a good hammer".

Edited by JD DANNELS, October 04, 2015 - 07:26 PM.


#9 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 08:03 PM

Before you insert your Allen wrench into the set screw examine the wrench closely. If the corners on the wrench are worn or rounded fix it now. Get a container of cold water and place it next to the grinder. Start grinding back the end of the wrench going only a little at a time and cooling it often. The trick is too grind back the Allen wrench to where the corners are not worn without over heating the wrench. Using a stone remove any burs from the wrench.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.  



#10 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 08:19 PM

Those set screws are hardened. If you must drill them out, you will have to take a torch and heat it up without blasting the threads and let it cool down so the temper goes out.



#11 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 09:11 PM

I drilled mine out, no issues.



#12 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 05:37 AM

Reading this thread is very informative , I've done everything through the year but never had to break out the drill . Maybe we should get all the good advise together and Pin a thread , Maybe put how we would tackle the problem in steps , not everyone would do it the same but , like making sure you have the correct size penetrating oils , nice allen bit , I grind worn section of mine off before trying on a stubborn set screw   ect .


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#13 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 06:29 AM

 like making sure you have the correct size penetrating oils . . .

 

???



#14 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 09:31 AM

Posted Today, 06:29 AM

Alc, on 05 Oct 2015 - 05:37 AM, said:snapback.png

 like making sure you have the correct size penetrating oils . . .

 

???

 

This is extremely important and could mean the success or failure of the project!!!!!    :smilewink:

 

 



#15 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2015 - 10:34 AM

Missed a comma between " size & penetrating "   LOL   Yes some things should be well lubed  


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