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And todays debate is on fueling up and oil changes in our GTs


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#16 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 07:24 PM

The reason I asked is,,  My  S-14-D bolens ( 1477 )  has a dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod..  And I almost bought an engine,, same S14D that the fella said the bottom of the crank-dipper broke of and seized the motor up...


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#17 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 08:08 PM

According to Wikipedia, Rotella T6  had high levels of zinc but it has been reformulated and is now at a lower level.



#18 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 08:30 PM

It's interesting what the old engines would run on. I used to have an old guy for a neighbor who told me about the Henderson motorcycle he had as a kid. He would heat kerosene over a cob fire to warm it enough, pour it in the tank and it would fire up. I think this was during a time of rationing gas. He told stories about outrunning the local cop's model T.


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#19 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 09:00 PM

I have seen a Dodge slant 6 run for 15 miles after the oil pan was ripped open from an accident. I personally ran a B/s 3.5 vertical lawn mower engine on Dove dish washing detergent (my younger days) in a attempt to make the tear down cleaner. (made a great suds machine). I think as long as you changed the oil at regular intervals, more often with heavy use, and more importantly keep the oil level full (check before each use) The type and brand becomes insignificant to the engine longevity.


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#20 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 09:06 PM

The reason I asked is,,  My  S-14-D bolens ( 1477 )  has a dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod..  And I almost bought an engine,, same S14D that the fella said the bottom of the crank-dipper broke of and seized the motor up...

I have 2 B/S 18 hp opposed with dippers, never seen one broke, but I have added 2 dippers to both to allow for slower running. A single dipper needs to be run at WOT.


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#21 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2015 - 05:33 PM

" cob fire "

 

the only time corn should be used for fire ! :thumbs:


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#22 MolonLabe ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2015 - 04:49 AM

Interesting topic. Our government now requires oil companies to reduce the amount of zinc, ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) in our gasoline engine oils to below recommended levels for flat tappet engines because it "may be harmful to catalytic converters". I always add some Lucas TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive to all of my tractors when changing the oil to restore the proper amount of zinc protection to the engines.

 

1200 PPM of zddp appears to be the bare minimum recommended for flat tappet engines whereas the new oil mandates are less than 900 PPM, typically. Any API tested oil is required to adhere to these standards, the exception are oils rated for diesel engines. If an oil is labeled "Energy Conserving" it will have a low zddp content. This issue isn't exclusive to cams and tappets but includes cylinder bores, wrist pins, crankshaft journals, all wear surfaces, you get the picture.

 

Ethanol-free fuel from the local coop is all the GT's get along with a shot of MMO.


Edited by MolonLabe, September 30, 2015 - 04:54 AM.

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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2015 - 06:31 AM

I have 2 B/S 18 hp opposed with dippers, never seen one broke, but I have added 2 dippers to both to allow for slower running. A single dipper needs to be run at WOT.


Can you explain how you added dippers?

#24 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2015 - 11:28 AM

These are the notes from my rebuild thread. Note that there are two types of oil pans also. The two dipper engines are for running at 2500 rpm, and has a provision for a low oil sensor. The single dipper runs at 3600 rpm.

 

Special Notes For Horizontal Crankshaft
Splash Lube Engines:
Engines with a Top-No-Load Speed Above 2400 RPM:
Install only one oil dipper on #1 connecting rod, Use ONLY dipper part #222480. Engine models 421000 and 422400 manufactured before date code
92072000 were not originally equipped with this dipper. It is recommended that the oil dipper be replaced with dipper part #222480 in all 421400 and
422400 engines at the time of major servicing or overhaul. When installing dipper part #222480 in these engines, the oil trough must be removed (if so
equipped).

Engines with a Top-No-Load Speed Below 2400 RPM:
Engines with a Top-No-Load speed below 2400 RPM require 2 oil dippers. Install ONLY oil dipper part #222480 on # 1 connecting rod. Install ONLY dipper part #223053 on #2 connecting rod.

p/n 222480 crosses back to p/n 691733

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • dippers 1.jpg
  • dippers installed.jpg
  • oil Guard.jpg
  • oil pan 1.jpg
  • oil pan 2.jpg

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#25 javjacob OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2015 - 11:26 AM

I only run non ethanol gas. Check out pure-gas.org. I also add lucas upper cylinder lubricant.

 

Its just a myth that synthetic is bad for old engines. Synthetic is just oil made so all the molecules are the same size which makes it smoother and reduces friction which mean less wear on parts. Imagine sliding across a floor of marbles which are all the same size, its smooth. Now imagine sliding across a floor of marbles that are all different sizes, not as smooth. That is also why synthetic oil last longer before it breaks down and needs changed. Synthetic is consistent, nothing magical or harmful to engines and its not thinner either and it wont cause your engine to leak oil. Those are wives tales from people who don't know what it is. Synthetic has different oil weights just like conventional. 

 

Older engines tend to leak oil as the gaskets age and people want to blame it on something. Most old engines are already leaking oil. I run synthetic in everything. The only time conventional oil is recommended over synthetic is for new engine break in. Some people are just scared of anything new or different to them.   


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#26 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2015 - 09:06 PM

Some people are just scared of anything new or different to them.   

 

And some are scared of the price. 


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#27 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2015 - 10:54 PM

Its does cost more over conventional oil. I tried synthetic in the 110 an it smoked like a diesel so I switched back to non detergent 30w an its no longer smoking. Is it coincidence that this happens or was the synthetic just cleaning the motor out?

#28 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 06:22 AM

 Is it coincidence that this happens or was the synthetic just cleaning the motor out?

Maybe it had a bad marble in it!


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#29 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 09:21 AM

Not just old engines for straight weight! I recently put a new engine in a friends zero turn (he snapped a rod in the old one, and was using SYNTHETIC oil - not that that was the cause AFAIK....). A brand new Kawasaki 25hp vertical twin. Kawasaki recommends using straight weight 30 or 40 weight for warmer climates, and says the engines will burn more oil with a multigrade. So there still seems to be a push toward single weight even in modern engines.

Just my opinion, mind you!!!!! But I think we need to keep the additive/oil grade issue in perspective. In a machine that sees 50-200 hours use per year (and I think most of our engines would fall in that range?), how much wear is going to take place, and how much are you going to prevent with additives? Most of these machines made it 50+ years with poor/no maintenance, primitive oil mixes, etc. If the damage is already done, few additives are going to "rebuild" worn parts!!

If it were running 24/7/52, that's different. But a healthy engine, run the number of hours we use them, should last for a long time with just clean oil.

I think CLEAN FRESH OIL is the important factor. I (personally) would rather use "cheaper" dino oil and change it more often than using a synthetic that can stay good for longer. Especially in a dipper engine which has no oil filtering - anything that gets in the oil, stays in the oil until the oil is changed! Filtered/pressure feed engines are a little more forgiving...

As far as fuel/ethanol, once you get past the solvent effects on old hoses/gaskets (replace with modern ethanol proof materials), the biggest issue with ethanol is absorbing water and re4sulting corrosion of aluminum/reactive metals. I see this as more of a storage issue and not a daily use issue. Fuel that gets used quickly doesn't have a chance to absorb water and sit in contact with your parts to eat them up! Personally, I keep less gas around here these days so it gets used quicker - more trips to the gas station, but less issues (so far)!
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#30 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2015 - 05:58 PM

Direct from both Kohler and B&S reps is straight 30 during summer months, but if the machine is used all winter long to move snow ect, then 10w30 is recommended.  The 10w is the winter weight and it will flow better when cold so you are not starving bearings for oil when its -10 out and you need to move a foot of fresh snow.  I change over to 10w30 at my fall oil change when I drop the mower deck and install the snow blade if I am using the tractor for that.  But with a 7'6" blade on my pickup and a nice warm cab, I stay in my truck to clear my drive and the tractor sleeps in the shed for the duration!  I dont do cold weather very well anymore.   Mike


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