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And todays debate is on fueling up and oil changes in our GTs


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#1 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 12:50 PM

So we all know that todays gas needs to be treated to help with the enthanol, the other thing most of us have engines on gts dating back to before unleaded fuel. So now my Questions are do we neeed to buy lead substitute? If you buy gas with enthanol what do you use to treat it? Is marvel mystery oil still good to use with todays gas?

 

Should the factory recomened straight weight oils be used anymore since some of us use are older gts all year round? If not what shoud we use? Are synthetic oils good for these old motors or will they do damage?

 

Im not looking to start an arguement with this topic if one is startted ill have the mods shut the topic down!

 

 

My thought with this topic is to help some of the guys who are just getting into the hobby with some helpful tips or things we have discovered while working on are gts. Or if anyone on here works in a small engine repair shop or a dealer anything you have came across that wil help anyone out would be greatly apperciated.


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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 01:42 PM

I've stuck with MMO for 48 years and it still seems to be the answer. I use the weights of oil that are recomended. The older machines seem to have been to slightly looser tolerances so the heavier(thicker) weight oil makes sense. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 02:43 PM

So Rick what weights are you using? my cub from the factory requires straight 30 yet i run 10w30 as i use it for plowing is this ok or could it cause some damage?

 

As for Gas what are you using? or what are you treating it with?



#4 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 02:43 PM

One problem is the lack of zinc in the newer grades of oil. This leads to valve wear. It has been my understanding that using diesel grade oil such as Rotella gets around this. Unless of course, the gov'ment has plug up this loop hole.


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#5 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 02:55 PM

So the 10w30 Rotella has the propertys that convential is now lacking? Id belive that is has to do with higher power but ive never heard that



#6 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 04:30 PM

Oil used is Rotella, 30W Straight grade Heavy Duty Diesel.

Gas is treated with the following formula, (5 gallons, 1 oz red stabul, 1 oz STP carb treatement.



#7 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 04:45 PM

I think you knew this but you really opened a can of worms with this string.  :smilewink: 

I've had excellent results with MMO (marvel mystery oil) when used as directed. 

STP saved an small engine for me when the oil pump failed. My Son was mowing with it and it seized up twice on him before he came and found me. It was a Tecumseh 7hp. vertical shaft. They were notorious for broken rods and this one didn't brake but it was blue from heat.  Replaced the rod and reamed top journal and was back in business. That engine was still on the mower when sold years later. And yes it still got 4ozs. of STP at every oil change. 

Had totally the opposite experience with STP oil filters though.  :mad2:  JUNK!!!!!!!


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#8 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 04:55 PM

Always use the manufactures recommended grade of oil, the SAE30 and 10W-30 are similar and would consider those interchangeable though, we always ran 10W-30 in all our equipment but that was just a personal preference.

 

One thing thats important is do not run anything synthetic in these engines 2000 and older!

Make sure you get the good old fashioned "Dino" oil , most L&G shops will carry this oil you can purchase , I recently began stocking and selling the universal Kohler oil which is formulated for small engines and has Zinc in it which most auto oils lack. They will generally be about $5 a quart which is not bad IMO, I am now using that in all my equipment.

 

As for gas its really a crap shoot and I have found all the stabilizers to be about the same, as long as you turn your gas off and run the carbs dry you should be ok, there's still some places to buy real gas but they are getting few and far between.


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#9 HANKG ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 05:05 PM

Is this a scam ?

#10 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 05:18 PM

My L&G recommends buying the high priced premix gas only to run and store your two cycle stuff for the winter. Running them dry for storage can be hard on rubber.



#11 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 05:34 PM

I run ethanol in my small engines( have since the 70s) and a little MMO.
As long as it is not a dipper lubed engine, I run the same oil in all my engines.
Be they mower,tiller diesel tractor and all my cars,and pickup, Rotella 15/40.
I see no logical reason to have to keep many different brands and viscosity weights on hand.

Besides if your out of the one you need,would you run it out of oil or put in what you have?
Bet we have all been there.

The only conssesion I make is my Stihl trimmer, when I bought it they would double the warranty(from 2-4 yrs) if I bought a six pack of their oil so I run their oil.

Edited by JD DANNELS, September 28, 2015 - 05:38 PM.

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#12 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 06:13 PM

If you will think back to when these old engines were built, there was no 5/30, 10W30 or any other multi grade oil.  Everything was straight weight 10, 20 0r 30.  That is why the mfg recommends to use the straight weight oil.  No reason not to use 10 W 30 oil or any of the other multi grade oils available.

 

As for the gas, I use gasohol but add lead substitute for the old engines.  This time of year everything gets Sta-bail in the gas, gas tanks are stored full as well as the carbs.  Gaskets, etc can't dry out if there is fuel around them.  Everything has always started in the spring, or winter which ever the case may be.

 

This is my opinion of what I do and probably won't change from it either.


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#13 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 06:17 PM

For treatment I use Lucas for ethanol with a lil mmo for oil its 10w30. I've seen an we sell others at work is it just a personal preference on brand or do others work better with proven results?
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#14 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 06:44 PM

JD Dannels...   Could you go deeper into the dipper engines..?????

 

For gas,,,,,   I can buy strait gas in upper wi.  ..  It's being sold for recreational use... I try to get about 10 gals to keep on hand,,with some fuel additives added..   stabil,, STP,, Sea foam,, what ever... Even a little auto trans fluid ..

 

They do sell lead substitute at some auto parts stores.. I use it in my old car...

 

as for oil,,,,   No synthetics,,   way to thin for older engines..and it may find it's way out of the seals causing leaks..

                     I use a strait wt. mostly 30 WT,,,,,,   By the way,,if your'e engine starts in the cold,, let it warm up awhile.. why would you need 10-30 WT.  ???

 

                     I heard even Rottella has eliminated the zinc ..  not positive on that.. Go to a auto race shop They are up on alot of the good oils...   Pricy,, yes...  Good..   Yes again ...   or even --Jegs   or   Summit ...


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#15 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 07:04 PM

JD Dannels... Could you go deeper into the dipper engines..?z
...

Engines made before the use of oil pumps, 1953 I think for Chevrolet, and up into the early 60s to mid 60s for some small engines were lubed by a dipper on the rod cap that dipped into the crankcase and picked up oil for the bearings.
This dipping could whip the oil into a frothy foam that could starve bearings with the detergent oils blended in that time period.
That is the reason non detergent oils were recommended. Just as relevant now if your dealing with an antique engine.

In my opinion with any engine with a full pressure oil system,should be ran with a good detergent oil.

Edited by JD DANNELS, September 28, 2015 - 07:08 PM.

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