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1970 Ford 120 Hydraulic "drive-no drive" controler stuck

ford 120 hydraulic drive

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#1 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 10:49 AM

Hello,

I have a 1970 Ford 120 with Hydraulic transmission.  The "Drive - No Drive" control is stuck in the Drive mode.  I cannot budge the control to move it to the "No Drive" location so I can push the tractor when not running.  Anybody out there who had the same issue and figured out how to correct it?  Please advise.

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  • Frame-Rear-Transmission 09-23-15.jpg


#2 1oldbuzz OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 11:14 AM

the control turns clockwise or counterclockwise about a half turn

Have you tried both directions?

there is also a roll pin that connects the shaft maybe that has snapped?

or you forgot to reinstall it


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#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 12:02 PM

The 120 I had years ago was stuck.Had to remove it and free it up.

 

More than likely Your going to have to Shock it loose.Put a Good tight fitting wrench on the nut and whack it with a heavy hammer.Once you get the nut to spin take it out and clean it up.Paint combined with a bit of rust and dirt will gum them up really good.

 

Whatever you do don't turn on the knob to hard they are pretty brittle especially if the tractor sat outside for a few years.


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#4 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 12:20 PM

The 120 I had years ago was stuck.Had to remove it and free it up.

 

More than likely Your going to have to Shock it loose.Put a Good tight fitting wrench on the nut and whack it with a heavy hammer.Once you get the nut to spin take it out and clean it up.Paint combined with a bit of rust and dirt will gum them up really good.

 

Whatever you do don't turn on the knob to hard they are pretty brittle especially if the tractor sat outside for a few years.

Thanks for the info.  I can actually get the nut off of the shaft.  I was afraid to force it too much to turn.  Will I hurt anything if I really lean on it to break it loose?



#5 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 12:29 PM

the control turns clockwise or counterclockwise about a half turn

Have you tried both directions?

there is also a roll pin that connects the shaft maybe that has snapped?

or you forgot to reinstall it

Thanks.  Yes I tried both directions.  I actually had the knob off and the roll pin out.  They are all fine.  I was wondering if I would break anything if I lean on it too hard to break it loose?



#6 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 03:20 PM

You could snap the bottom off but it will take more than a little nudge. Back the nut off as far as it will go and spray a bit of PB Blaster or other penetrating oil down in there and let it sit a few minutes.

 

Can you get a small pipe wrench on the shaft? You should be able to turn the shaft easily with a small pipe wrench.Don't go He-Man on it though :rolling:  I think I used a pair of channel locks on mine.It just needed a little nudge and some leverage to crack it loose.

 

After it was out I cleaned it up.I think it was just the rubber O rings stuck and a bit of gunk and a tiny bit of rust that was holding mine tight.


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#7 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2015 - 04:18 PM

Nice looking paint job , looking good so far. Good luck with freeing the control.


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#8 RAJ OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 09:55 AM

I had this same issue with a Moline 110 Hydro. I broke the roll pin trying to force it. I ended up taking the knob/stop off and putting a vise grip on it.

I didn't really think of the potential consequences, but it was nearly impossible to move it around by hand with it stuck in drive. It did free up and I sprayed it with pb blaster and moved it back and forth several times to loosen it up. Still stiffer than my other Hydros but at least I can disengage it now. They must seize up if they aren't used often enough, or spend any time outdoors in the rain.
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#9 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2015 - 11:23 AM

Ok Thanks I'm going to go for it.  I will clamp a big pair of vice grips on it and use a leverage bar to help move it.  Thanks for all your advice!  I will report on how it went! :pushmower:



#10 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2015 - 07:29 AM

:tapping_fingers:  Well,    :biting_nails:  :smilewink:  :smilewink:


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#11 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 06:58 AM

:tapping_fingers:  Well,    :biting_nails:  :smilewink:  :smilewink:

 


YaHoo!  Good News!   I took the knob and shear pin out and the nut holding the shaft in.  I put a big vice grip on it and a 3'pipe on the end of the vice grip handle.  I gave It a steady tug and it came loose!  I was actually rusted in place.  I was able to clean it up and put it back in without damaging the two O rings on it.  The hold down screw holding the knob to the shaft was stripped so I drilled right into the shaft and cut threads into it.  The hold down screw now actually screws right into the shaft. The drive no drive works perfectly now!  I included some pics of the updated project.  On to the next parts.  The brake / clutch pedel and the implement lift controls.  I need to repaint the wheels as well.  Thanks for all your advice! :worshippy1:  :dancingbanana: Frame-complete transaxle with all controls installed drive no drive fixed. 9-27-15.jpg Transaxle with controls installed 9-28-15.jpg


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#12 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2015 - 07:44 PM

Glad to hear you got it free without breaking anything.



#13 RAJ OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2015 - 09:39 AM

That is good news. Sometimes force and crossed fingers are the only option ;-)

#14 Ford Chet OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2015 - 11:27 AM

I have updated photo of the 1970 Ford tractor I am restoring. See attached. Let me know what you think!

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  • Frame, Transaxle controls, battery tray, break controls, chrome hubcap rear wheels. 10-2-15.jpg

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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2015 - 05:24 PM

Looks good!







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