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Short Road Trip After a New Find


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#31 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 06:40 AM

All the way forward is drive, center is neutral, all the way back is park. 

Thanks much.  Mine is stuck all the way forward.  Will have to see where it is seized at and get it in neutral position before I move it anymore.  I have it sitting on the imp. mounting lugs on blocks now so can turn the rear hubs if need be.


Edited by chieffan, September 25, 2015 - 06:40 AM.

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#32 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 08:07 AM

Did you see the wiring diagram I posted in your other thread?

 

http://gardentractor...76/#entry610900


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#33 Chubien ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 09:47 AM

I have no idea how to post a video on here. Working on the fuel system now. Took 2 hours this afternoon to get the gas tank off, sediment bulb and fitting apart without breaking anything. Have gas in the bottom of the tank soaking with a hand full of 3/8" nuts. Nuts won't help while it is soaking but will sure loosen up the crud in the bottom when I shake heck out of it again.

Definitely will need two new rear tires. Can use these even with tubes. Pricing tires now. $89 each mounted is the best so far.


I have had good luck cleaning gas tanks using that method, I was using 3/4 gravel but same result in the end.

The only problem I found it the tank rusts very quickly again if it is not kept full all the time.

I need to look into a good sealer.

#34 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 05:40 PM

I have never believe in leaving a metal tank sit empty.  I want them completely full with Sta-bail in the gas.  An empty metal tank is a moisture pit.

 

Got the lever freed up this afternoon.  The control valve on top of the hydro was stuck as well as the lower valve.  Sprayed the both with BP blaster and an hour later they both moved.  Have the fuel tank cleaned up as well as the sediment bowl.  Both are ready for service.  Surprisingly the carb was fairly clean on the inside.  Both the throttle and choke shafts are stuck.  Sprayed them with PB blaster and let them soak over night.  Should come loose in the morning.  Will put a new kit in the carb and fuel pump just to be sure.  Will service the hyuro while waiting for the kits to come.  Long ways to go but making some progress.


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#35 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2015 - 08:44 PM

Did you see the wiring diagram I posted in your other thread?

 

http://gardentractor...76/#entry610900

Thanks much Bruce.  I did see that and it is better than the one I had.  None of them show the internal contacts of the ignition switch in the 3 positions.  That is the important part when matching up another brand of ignition switch.  That is what I had when I got the NAPA replacement for my 1053.



#36 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2015 - 07:56 AM

You might check with Rick, Bob, and Brian. 

 

I'll bet that one of them will have the proper switch for your 1476. 

 

Maybe even a NOS one.


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#37 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2015 - 08:18 AM

You might check with Rick, Bob, and Brian. 

 

I'll bet that one of them will have the proper switch for your 1476. 

 

Maybe even a NOS one.

Brian has one but way out of sight.  Over $70 each.  Hate to cut out a dealer but if I can save $50 on one little item, why not?



#38 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2015 - 10:10 AM

Bob may have that switch a bit cheaper since he's in OH he has a different distributor than us and they have better pricing on that item than I can offer.



#39 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2015 - 06:13 PM

Been soaking the carb off this thing for another week, this time in brake fluid.  Nothing is moving.  tomorrow morning is D-day.  going to drill a hole in the bottom of the carb in opine with the two shafts.  Will clap the carb in a vise and with a small punch and hammer something is going to give.  Carb is not worth scrap the way it is.  If successful I can fill the holes with JB Weld.  If not. what have I lost.  Found a couple new carb at $230 a pop.  At that price I am going to work on this old one to try and get it usable once again.  Will know by tomorrow night, one way or the other.


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#40 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 06:52 AM

SUCCESS !  See new post on Seized Carburetor Saved.  Has photos and detail on how I went about it.


Edited by chieffan, October 14, 2015 - 06:54 AM.


#41 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 04:12 PM

Making some progress.  Found a decent pair of AG tires for $110.  Had to put a small patch on one but both were real decent tires.  Rear Tires-1.JPG

 

The one rim had some real heavy rust built up from sitting in the dirt for a unknown period of time.  Cleaned it up as good as I could but it wasn't good enough to let the bead seal.  Simple fix, just bring out the bottle of SLIME.  With the wheel mounted on the old Coats manual tire machine I rolled the bead of the tire away from the rim slightly, not wanting to break the bead from the rim.  Applied a small amount of SLIME in the open area and with an acid brush worked the SLIME  up and in between the bead and the rim.  Did this clear around the wheel and on both sides.  Aired the tire up to 16 lbs.  Wiped the excess SLIME off with a rag.  That was 24 hours ago and checked the tire today.  15.5 lbs. and it is 8° cooler today.  You can see the tiny bead of green around the bead.  I have fixed many bead leaks this way.  Rin Seal.JPG

 

With the motor mount fabricated from belting I set the motor back down on the mounts and tightened it down.  Lined the PTO pulley up and locked it in place.  The bottom of the shroud was rotted away so had to lay a tin shingle in the bottom and pop rivet it in place.  Carb is rebuilt and on the engine.  New diaphragm in the fuel pump and it is back on.  Now - I have to find where I put the short link?  Thought it was all together but guess it wasn't.  May have to build a new one.Engine Back Down.JPG

 

Tomorrow I make that link - so the original one will show up, a couple more pieces of the engine shroud, do some wiring and hook up a new ignition switch.  May get to see if it will fire ? ? ?

 



#42 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2015 - 03:30 PM

There is also a commercial product available at most auto parts stores called "Bead Sealer" I have used it for about the last 45 years. Works every time. The can is yellow.


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#43 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2015 - 07:14 AM

There is also a commercial product available at most auto parts stores called "Bead Sealer" I have used it for about the last 45 years. Works every time. The can is yellow.

I have seen that in different stores.  SLIME is working and it can be used inside the tire as well as the bead.  I have sealed side wall leaks with slime also by laying the tired down so the leak in at the low spot.  Over inflation by about 5 lbs helps to while it is sealing.






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