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1964 LandLord 314 Project. [Complete]

1964 simplicity landlord 314 transmission leak

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109 replies to this topic

#61 ACmowerguy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 10:23 PM

While you're that far it would be a good idea to put new woodruff keys in the bevel gear box.


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#62 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 07:33 AM

While you're that far it would be a good idea to put new woodruff keys in the bevel gear box.

Yep you're 100% right about that. There is a noticeable delay between the two gears turning. After taking the bevel box apart, you can see that Driver Gear is loose on the Driver Shaft.


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#63 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2016 - 08:47 AM

Possibly a very dumb question, do I have to time the gears or position the gears in the specific manor when i put it back together? My father told me I shouldn't take it apart until I found out. I personally don't think I should have to position them because I see no timing marks.

 

Edit: I said the heck with it and tore the bevel box part. There are no marks for timing or positioning the gears. I removed the seals and the two ball bearings. I put the two ball bearings in a cup of marvels mystery oil. They're not rusted or seized. I figured it wouldn't hurt to let them soak. The seals did look worn but nothing significant. I do need to replace both woodruff keys. The driver woodruff key was bent and the other woodruff key got ruined while I was taking it out because I used vice grips to pull it. The two needle bearings are still good. 

The driver woodruff key:

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EDIT 2:

 

More pictures. Found that the drive pulley side of the bevel box is starting to deteriorate. Not sure if this is damage from usage or if from a previous rebuild.

20160108_130628.jpg 20160108_130644.jpg


Edited by wbakunis, January 08, 2016 - 01:30 PM.


#64 ACmowerguy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 12:27 AM

Wow those keys sure were worn. Make sure the new keys fit fairly snugly in the shafts and gears or it will wear out again before long.  As for the housing, I think its normal for part of the casting to be kind of rough in areas but I'm not sure about that location. I'll try to take a peek at a parts box I had in the shed to see if it looks the same and will report my findings.


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#65 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 05:44 AM

I was hoping to see more pics of the insides. Glad you are going through it.


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#66 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 07:34 AM

I was hoping to see more pics of the insides. Glad you are going through it.

Sure, no problem. I can go get more pictures of the needle gears and the general insides of the case. I hope you don't mind that I already cleaned the case / housing. It was caked with old oil. Looked very muddy on the inside.


Edited by wbakunis, January 09, 2016 - 07:37 AM.

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#67 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 07:56 AM

I have a complete rear out of a 716 with the BGB attached. Been trying to figure out a use for the BGB and it would be nice to see the innards of one, even if it is a different model. Mine is a little heavier duty as it has a 7/8" input shaft.



#68 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 12:53 PM

Are these the pictures you wanted? After looking at these pictures, I still really need to scrub the bottom of the case / housing. Still very dirty. Wish I had a parts cleaner basin.

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Edited by wbakunis, January 09, 2016 - 12:56 PM.

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#69 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2016 - 02:06 PM

That works! Thanks!


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#70 637Yeoman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 01:37 PM

I put the rings in the bore. The oil backup ring has about 1/4" gap. The other two compression rings have about an 1/8" gap. Thanks for the info classic. I should look for my briggs book. I wonder if it goes back to the old engines.

attachicon.gif2015-12-14 15.23.13.jpgattachicon.gif2015-12-14 15.25.52.jpg

EDIT: I should've looked past my nose.

attachicon.gif2015-12-14 21.26.54.jpg

i have that same book. The "bible" of old briggs.


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#71 classic ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 05:42 PM

Looking at the pics in post #63, it appears that the roller bearing race may have been spinning in the BGB housing, causing that shiny silver ring in the housing. Check the bearing race to see if it's worn where the face of the race contacts this silver ring. If the race spun in the housing, you should replace the bearing, and hopefully the outside of the race didn't wear the bore of the housing too badly.
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#72 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 05:51 PM

Looking at the pics in post #63, it appears that the roller bearing race may have been spinning in the BGB housing, causing that shiny silver ring in the housing. Check the bearing race to see if it's worn where the face of the race contacts this silver ring. If the race spun in the housing, you should replace the bearing, and hopefully the outside of the race didn't wear the bore of the housing too badly.

Good eye! Thanks for noticing that. Ill go out now to check them and report back.


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#73 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 06:20 PM

@Classic, The bearings look good surprisingly and still move without issue. Both roller bearings have very slight scratching on the outside and the faces look fine. I put the bearings into the housing and both fit snug. I guess I got lucky and nothing is ruined.


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#74 classic ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2016 - 07:50 PM

That's good! I've seen spun bearing races ruin Tecumseh HH120 blocks and transmission housings. It's always good to make sure housings,blocks,etc., are in good shape before rebuilding them.
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#75 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2016 - 08:45 PM

I put the bevel box back together this morning. All set now. No more play in the gears. The motor should be back together tomorrow.

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Major turning point in the project. Time to move onto the body work and painting. I would like to get suggestions for prices and paint types. I visited a store in the local city called "protech supply". Its a small store for DIY auto body work. The salesman was able to find the correct paint I needed and suggested a hardener with an epoxy. Ill include the receipt right below this. For what he suggested, it'll cost me about $370 just for paints. Probably another $30-$50 for misc painting equipment (funnels, stirring sticks, sanding blocks). I would like to stick with a stage 1 paint. I don't want to put clear coat on the tractor. I think it would look unusual being really shiny.

What does everyone recommend for paint (brands, types, etc)?

Paint Quote
ProtechPaintQuote.png

 


Edited by wbakunis, January 14, 2016 - 08:47 PM.

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