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1964 LandLord 314 Project. [Complete]

1964 simplicity landlord 314 transmission leak

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109 replies to this topic

#46 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2015 - 02:46 PM

Awesome news. That cheap $20 aftermarket carburetor i got on ebay works perfectly. No more leaks and its providing the correct amount of fuel into the motor. My father and I got the heli-coil installed for the spark plug. I also put a new breather gasket on. Oil was leaking from there.


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#47 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2015 - 07:54 PM

I got a 1" x 36" steel pipe to use for a exhaust stack. For now i put the muffler on top until I can find a resonator and a rain cap for the top. I also got plow markers. I didn't honestly need them, I think it just looks cool. I've also gone ahead and got new rings and a whole gasket kit for when I rebuild the motor. Better to get them now when I can find them. Still looking for headlights similar to the original ones.

Sorry about the blurry pictures. My tremors were quite bad. 
2015-12-05 15.57.30.jpg
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Edited by wbakunis, December 09, 2015 - 10:12 PM.

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#48 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2015 - 03:35 PM

The rings went this morning while I was pulling some junk away from the house. Blew oil all over the place. It backfired and then shut off. I pulled most of the motor apart. Don't have a large enough wrench or socket to remove the bolt holding the flywheel. Need to see if my father has one. 

While I was taking the carb off, the governor control rod broke. I need to find another.

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Edited by wbakunis, December 10, 2015 - 04:46 PM.


#49 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 12:39 PM

Was bored this morning so I took the rest of the motor apart. Doesn't look too bad at all inside. There is noticeable scratching on the piston and slightly in the bore. The bearings are still very good, the lobes look perfect, and the governor works just fine.

Piston is blowing by? Looks burnt.
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Edited by wbakunis, December 14, 2015 - 12:46 PM.


#50 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 01:06 PM

Your rings show a lot of wear. Remove the rings from the piston and slide the rings in the bore to check the ring end gap. By the look of the oil ring, the ring end gap will be excessive. You need to measure the crank pin for wear, also. I can look up the reject spec for you. This is what a new set of Briggs 23d rings look like.

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#51 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 02:11 PM

Your rings show a lot of wear. Remove the rings from the piston and slide the rings in the bore to check the ring end gap. By the look of the oil ring, the ring end gap will be excessive. You need to measure the crank pin for wear, also. I can look up the reject spec for you. This is what a new set of Briggs 23d rings look like.

What should I use to check the crank pin? Just a simple caliper? Sure, could you look up the reject spec please?

 



#52 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 04:26 PM

You can use a caliper, but it would be better to check the crank pin with a micrometer. Measure the crank pin in a few spots because the crank pin wears from perfectly round when new, to oval when well used. My Briggs book says that the reject size for the crank pin is 1.1854. The crank pin out of round allowance is .0007
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#53 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 09:22 PM

I put the rings in the bore. The oil backup ring has about 1/4" gap. The other two compression rings have about an 1/8" gap. Thanks for the info classic. I should look for my briggs book. I wonder if it goes back to the old engines.

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EDIT: I should've looked past my nose.

2015-12-14 21.26.54.jpg


Edited by wbakunis, December 14, 2015 - 09:28 PM.

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#54 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2015 - 10:01 PM

You're welcome. I suspected that your ring gaps would be excessive and that engine has seen a lot of use over the years. The crankpin reject spec in that book show the reject spec for the model 23 and 230000 to be 1.184. My Briggs parts and service data manual from 1966 shows the crankpin reject spec for models 23, 23A, 23C, and 23D, to be 1.1854. I measured the crankpin on on NOS Briggs 23r6d crankshaft and the crankpin measures 1.875. Clearance between the crankpin and connecting rod when new would have been between .0015 and .0020 from what I've read.

#55 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:17 AM

My plan today is to tear the tractor down completely and start sanding and fixing panels. The tractor is missing many bolts for the panels and almost all retainer nuts are broken. For anyone that has done a total restoration on these landlords / allis tractors, what type of retainer nut can I get? It would be awesome If I could find similar nuts that clip onto the panels. 

Retainer Nut:
Simplicity 2718032



#56 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:55 AM

Ace Hardware has some of these type retainer nuts, though just not exactly the same.


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#57 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2016 - 07:00 PM

Some pictures of the teardown so far. Had to leave so I couldn't finish today. I need to wash all this before I can start sanding. Is it safe to use paint stripper or would it be too harsh? I got some spray on paint stripper from home depot. I also got a tyvek suit, two painters head sock, wire brushes, a regular scrub brush.

The only problem I think ill have is with the wiring. So I made sure to take a couple pictures of that.

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#58 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 02:51 PM

I got some more pictures and a question. I'm tearing down the bevel box right now to check to see what the condition of everything is. It doesn't seem like the bearings are bad and the gears are in perfect shape.

Is it normal for a little bit of oil to be leaking from the seals or should it not leak at all? The front oil seal (154263), and the oil seal for the drive pulley (154278) are leaking quite a bit.

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EDIT: I'm unable to find oil seal (2154278) on ebay, amazon, or partstree. I'm able to find the other two oil seals though.


Edited by wbakunis, January 06, 2016 - 04:04 PM.


#59 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2016 - 04:55 PM

Ace Hardware has some of these type retainer nuts, though just not exactly the same.

Thanks I found some. It's interesting that these types of nuts are referred as "retainer nuts" in the parts manual. They're actually called a "cage nut".

11544412.jpgRetainer nuts look like this. 51rmrcSYf7L._SX342_.jpg


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#60 classic OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2016 - 10:27 AM

I sent you a PM regarding the seal that you can't find for the BGB. I sent you a link in a message on where to get one.
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