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1964 LandLord 314 Project. [Complete]

1964 simplicity landlord 314 transmission leak

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109 replies to this topic

#16 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 03:54 PM

Today I decided to tackle the hydraulic cylinder problem. There is no local hydraulic shops so I had to drive down to terryville connecticut. I was worried that the seals were going to cost quite a bit. In total, the seals cost $13.43 and surprisingly they didn't charge for labor. They asked if they could install the seals. I wasn't going to say no. Last time I tried putting seals in, I ruined one.

 

1964 Simplicity Hydrolift 990339

Seals List

 

Quantity | Seal Number | Price | Gasket Location

  • One | 2-112 N-70 | $1 | Bladder Seal
  • Two | 2-023 N70 | $2 | End Caps
  • One | TPO15 - Piston T Seal 1 1/4 x 1 x 3/16 | $10.43 | Ram Head

 

Next thing on the todo list is fix the gas tank. I need to rethread the tank spout and put a shut off on it. 

I also ordered a missing body panel and the lift lever arm for the mower deck.


Edited by wbakunis, October 13, 2015 - 03:59 PM.

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#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 04:14 PM

I have a few parts for a 314. Not many, though.



#18 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 05:42 PM

I have a few parts for a 314. Not many, though.

I believe all I need now is the cowling for the power take off and the gas tank bands. On the motor (B&S 23D - 9HP), i'm missing the points mechanism cover. 


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#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 05:48 PM

No help there for you!


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#20 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2015 - 05:57 PM

No help there for you!

It's perfectly fine  :thumbs: . If I can at least find pictures of the cowling and the bands, I can make them.

May I ask what parts you do have?



#21 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2015 - 08:33 AM

Mostly odds and ends. If I get time later, I'll see if I can find the pics I had posted earlier this year.

 

Here's the band around the tank. It is 1/16" thick X 3/4" wide X 23-1/2" total length. The 90° bend with hole is 3/4". The threaded stud is 1-1/4" long.

2015-10-14 08.20.29.jpg     2015-10-14 08.20.53.jpg

2015-10-14 08.21.35.jpg

 

I do have a pair of decent foot boards with the rubber still on one them.

 

Found my For sale ad!



#22 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2015 - 11:55 AM

Tractor is pretty much back together now. The two parts I ordered arrived in the mail and I've installed them. I ordered the battery cover and a lift lever arm. Both of these parts are from a B10. After I get the snowplow hooked up, Ill start painting everything. Ill be painting the Allis B10 parts, with the correct yellow paint. I could easily make the whole tractor match up but then Ill feel like im destroying those parts.

Ill be using my extra Sears suburban plow for now until i can find the correct snowplow for the landlord. The sears plow has a custom frame and need to be tweaked so it will work for on here. 

20151015_124111.jpg 20151015_124117.jpg 20151015_124751.jpg 20151016_114800.jpg 20151016_114808.jpg 20151016_120842.jpg


Edited by wbakunis, October 16, 2015 - 12:19 PM.

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#23 Banjo123 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2015 - 12:38 PM

Looking realy good

#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2015 - 07:12 PM

I still need to get pics of what I have for a 314! The show has my full attention this weekend!



#25 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2015 - 07:12 PM

Small update

 

Got the gas tank retapped and I have a new valve on order. The current one is leaking now. I put fuel in the tank and the float is stuck open. Gas is flowing down into the neck of the air filter. I took the carb apart and found a bunch of gray mush of sorts. It got cold quickly so ill work on it early tomorrow morning.

2015-10-19 16.03.47.jpg



#26 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2015 - 11:24 AM

you wont hurt those parts painting them to match . ( they can be repainted )

people who dont know better will think you have a frankenstien tractor if they see yellow on an orange tractor :thumbs:

it would destroy them if you painted them joan dear green though ... :bigrofl:

good ole ethenol scrung in that there carb or maybe lime deposits from using "heet" . had one full of hard white chunks and it ate the casing away


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#27 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2015 - 02:39 PM

you wont hurt those parts painting them to match . ( they can be repainted )

people who dont know better will think you have a frankenstien tractor if they see yellow on an orange tractor :thumbs:

it would destroy them if you painted them joan dear green though ... :bigrofl:

good ole ethenol scrung in that there carb or maybe lime deposits from using "heet" . had one full of hard white chunks and it ate the casing away

Yea, I can agree on that part about painting them john deere green. I haven't used heet or any fuel treatments in this tractor yet. I do need to use something to help reduce the carbon build up. I took the head off the motor and found that it was caked with carbon. With the carb, It could be something with the ethanol. The fuel nowadays is horrible.

2015-10-21 13.37.45.jpg 2015-10-21 13.37.50.jpg 2015-10-21 13.59.29.jpg 2015-10-21 13.59.38.jpg


Edited by wbakunis, October 21, 2015 - 02:46 PM.


#28 alec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2015 - 02:59 PM

a bunch of guys on here say to use a tablespoon per gallon of marvel mystery oil in your gas for carbon build up . I have been doing that but I also go out of my way to find non ethenol gas ( kinda tricky ) there is a website called realgas or realfuel .com that lists places that sell it

thats some buildup you got there :thumbs:



#29 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2015 - 07:19 PM

Yea, I can agree on that part about painting them john deere green. I haven't used heet or any fuel treatments in this tractor yet. I do need to use something to help reduce the carbon build up. I took the head off the motor and found that it was caked with carbon. With the carb, It could be something with the ethanol. The fuel nowadays is horrible.

attachicon.gif2015-10-21 13.37.45.jpgattachicon.gif2015-10-21 13.37.50.jpgattachicon.gif2015-10-21 13.59.29.jpgattachicon.gif2015-10-21 13.59.38.jpg

normally i use a scraper to get off the worst then use a dremel with the little wire wheel thing on it. the steel is fine enough that it doesn't gouge it but i haven't done gasket surfaces just because there is no need to.



#30 wbakunis OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2015 - 10:26 AM

How normal is it for the piston to travel this much? On the full down stroke, the piston is able to move side to side about 1/8th inch. The top half of the bore seems to be tight and fine but the lower half has this massive gap.

Could the rings be broken by any chance?

 

Fully down | Side 1
2015-10-24 10.06.52.jpg

 

Full down | Side 2 (piston against wall)

2015-10-24 10.07.12.jpg

 

Full down | Image of full bore

2015-10-24 10.07.20.jpg

 

Full up | Piston at top of stroke.

2015-10-24 10.07.33.jpg


Edited by wbakunis, October 24, 2015 - 10:28 AM.






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