Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

B10 wont stay running


  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#16 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,306 Thanks
  • 934 posts

Posted August 09, 2016 - 02:39 PM

I dont think the extra ballast resistor is the problem, just curious about the 12v coil + ballast resistor thing. If running half to full choke helps, that would usually rule out a spark issue.

 

I would run a compression check after it dies. Could be a head gasket leaking after it gets hot enough to stretch the bolts a little. It may just need to be re torqued


  • DanP said thank you

#17 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 18, 2016 - 04:32 PM

I did a compression test last night and cold it was 98 lbs. Is that good enough? Not sure what to check next.



#18 petrj6 ONLINE  

petrj6
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 53717
  • 3,808 Thanks
  • 2,219 posts
  • Location: petersbrgh ny

Posted August 18, 2016 - 07:48 PM

   Just out of curiosity , did you rebuild the engine yourself or have a shop do it ?  I rebuilt an engine one time and didn't give the piston enough clearance, the motor ran great at an idle and even revved up good for a minute or two but once it got hot I would seize up.  basically slow down and quit, as soon as it cooled it would fire rite up again.  just a thought.

                                                 Pete


  • DanP said thank you

#19 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 19, 2016 - 12:24 PM

Yes I rebuilt it myself and have done quite a few others. Worked in a Farm Implement business for 20 some years. I still think it is ignition and am going to try a few things this weekend. 


  • petrj6 said thank you

#20 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,449 Thanks
  • 1,603 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted August 20, 2016 - 12:32 AM

It runs for a while longer when you pull the choke out all of the way? Have you tapped on the float bowl when it started to die to see if the float or needle is sticking? You've been around this stuff for a while, so you know how much of a pain trouble shooting can be. Even when new, ignition parts can be bad or not work properly. There are a bunch of things that can be causing you this problem, and most possible causes have been mentioned. There's not much to these engines, but they can throw you for a loop once in a while. Check what everyone has mentioned already and go from there. I would change the spark plug, clean and gap the points, and make sure that the carb is as clean as a whistle with no air leaks. Pulling the choke to keep it running leads me to believe it's fuel/air related, though.
  • DanP said thank you

#21 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 20, 2016 - 06:08 AM

I put a new coil on with a built in resister last night. I removed the old coil and resister. I started it up and it ran 5 minutes and stopped. I started it again and it ran a little bit and stopped. I then pulled the fuel line off the carb to see if I had fuel running to the carb. I did and a full stream. I put the hose back on but did not tigten the clamp so I could pull it off faster if it died again. It ran for over 45 minutes. So I will be tearing into the carb today to see what I find in there.
  • classic said thank you

#22 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,449 Thanks
  • 1,603 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted August 20, 2016 - 07:43 AM

If you have some starting fluid, pull the air cleaner and see if it stays running on that. This problem you are having has me curious.
  • DanP said thank you

#23 Rock farmer ONLINE  

Rock farmer
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10759
  • 1,119 Thanks
  • 1,177 posts
  • Location: York Maine

Posted August 20, 2016 - 03:25 PM

Just a thought, I'd loosen up the valves till your sure their too loose.
If the valve stems are expanding when they get hot, you will will slowly loose compression.

Joe
  • DanP and wbakunis have said thanks

#24 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 22, 2016 - 08:04 AM

I took the carb apart and didn't find any dirt but checked the float level and pot new gaskets in. Got it back together and started it up, it ran for about 15 minutes and died. I noticed smoke coming out of the starter generator and it was hotter than he.. After it cooled off i tried to turn the generator over and it was stuck. I figured it was locking up killing the motor. I had another starter generator so I put it on. It ran fine for a little bit but I felt it and it was getting hot also. You could put your hand on it but not leave it there. I shut it down and decided to ask here if they are supposed to get that hot and if not what should I look for?


  • classic said thank you

#25 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,449 Thanks
  • 1,603 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted August 22, 2016 - 08:40 PM

Take the starter generator belt off and tie it out of the way of the drive shaft. Lift the seat and use the rope start pulley to start the tractor. Run it around for a while to make sure that the starter generator is or isn't the problem. The starter generators do run hot sometimes. The starter generators are meant to be serviced regularly. They build up with dust from the brushes as they wear, and the dust mixes with grease and oil inside the generator. It's best to service the starter generator on these old machines. Install new bearings, or bearing and bushing as some have. Install new brushes and brush springs, and make sure everything is clean and all contact points are good. Also, inspect the insulation around the field coils that are attached to the inside of the housing. I've seen the insulation melted on some that got good and hot. Most replacement bearings are sealed and just need to be changed out when they go bad. On some of the older ones, there are oil cups to periodically lube the bearings. I'm in the process of rebuilding one of these starter generators for my Economy tractor. There's really not much to it unless you need new field coils. Have an electric motor shop handle that since it requires special tools to do it right. There are some pretty good videos on how to test them and on how to do a basic rebuild on them. One thing you don't want to do is tighten the starter generator belt too tight. This can cause the generator to run hot and wear the bearings prematurely.
  • DanP said thank you

#26 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,169 Thanks
  • 2,142 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted August 22, 2016 - 11:13 PM

The Delco-Remy starter/generators will get too hot to keep your hand on it.

 

When your engine dies, does it spit or sputter as it is dying, or does it stop as if the key is turned off?

 

Sometimes a failing ignition switch will cause what you are experiencing.

 

Is the fuel line getting so hot it's causing a vapor lock? 

 

Are the points clean or is there any oil mist under the point cover?  ....I once encountered a Wisconsin engine which got oil mist on the points after running awhile.  ....The engine would die, but restart after 30-45 seconds, which was just enough time for the oil to drain off  the points, restoring continuity thru the points. 

 

Are the valve clearances set properly?  .....When the engine cuts out, does it sound like it lost compression?

 

Lots of possibilities, but without further testing and more info, we're all just guessing.


  • DanP said thank you

#27 classic ONLINE  

classic
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 52970
  • 3,449 Thanks
  • 1,603 posts
  • Location: New York

Posted August 23, 2016 - 12:10 AM

Bruce brings up many good points, so as you can see, there are quite a few things that can cause the issues that you are having. I have a habit of purposely picking things up that need a ton of work, but once completely gone through, they run or work again. There are always those head scratches that take persistence to figure out. Certain things are known causes for problems and many times you have to check things two or three times before you catch the culprit. I've had the same oil leak on the points that Bruce mentioned, but it was on a Briggs with a cracked points plunger seal. We all go through it, and it usually turns out to be a simple problem. Just don't get fixated on what you might think it is. Just try to rule things out by making sure that each individual component is functioning as it should.
  • DanP said thank you

#28 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 23, 2016 - 04:27 PM

I have had it running a couple times for over 45 minutes and it works fine now. I was just afraid I would burn up another generator. I might take it apart and clean it and check the bearings.



#29 DanP OFFLINE  

DanP

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6989
  • 276 Thanks
  • 467 posts
  • Location: Mt Pleasant, Iowa

Posted August 24, 2016 - 10:33 AM

I took it apart last night and it had some dust in it but not bad. The bushing was wore on one end and the bearing was rough on the other end so I will replace them , maybe it wont get as hot.


  • Alc said thank you




Top