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#16 Clifford Bridgford OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2015 - 08:28 PM

I had a Briggs Z with your same problem about 20 years ago. Replaced every part of the ignition system and found a new old stock carburetor. Nothing would fix it.  Then I had the magnets recharged in the flywheel. Has started on the first pull ever since.

 

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#17 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2015 - 09:34 PM

In the manual is list two different clearances for the Model B series engine.  one is B (5 digit) and the other is B (6 digit).  What do they mean bu 5 digit and 6 digit.  the model is BR-6.  How is one to know what the valve clearance is supposed to be ? ? ?



#18 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2015 - 09:35 PM

I had a Briggs Z with your same problem about 20 years ago. Replaced every part of the ignition system and found a new old stock carburetor. Nothing would fix it.  Then I had the magnets recharged in the flywheel. Has started on the first pull ever since.

 

Cliff

Thanks much cliff.  Something else to look at I guess.



#19 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 05:33 AM

You can't give up yet !!!  You starting problem is like a movie mystery you can't leave us hanging lol  If the points and condenser wired separately would you be able to disconnect the wires from it and fish a wire from the point to an external 12v coil and condenser and 12v battery just to eliminate the ignition system ( except for the points )     That's how I got my B&S 9hp running just to test .


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#20 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 07:54 AM

You can't give up yet !!!  You starting problem is like a movie mystery you can't leave us hanging lol  If the points and condenser wired separately would you be able to disconnect the wires from it and fish a wire from the point to an external 12v coil and condenser and 12v battery just to eliminate the ignition system ( except for the points )     That's how I got my B&S 9hp running just to test .

I am not using the points or condenser.  It has an electronic ignition module on it now.  It is wired correctly as there is spark.  If the module was wired backwards there would be not spark.  I have done that before too.  OR, Do I have to leave the condenser installed and hooked up with the coil wire to the module?  Instructions say to use the coil wire, nothing mentioned about the condenser.  There is room to run a wire from the points to an external coil and condenser.



#21 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 10:21 AM

Back under the flywheel AGAIN.  Everything looked good to me.  Took some pics, maybe you guys can see something that I don't.  Only change I made was the wire to the plug was not soldered to the coil terminal.  It was feed through the loop and folded back over and pinched tight.  I trimmed the end of the wire and tined it.  Cleaned the loop on the coil and soldered the plug wire to the coil terminal.  It now has a solid connection.

 

Check the photos where the wire from the coil to the points (originally) is leaving the coil between two thin plates of the coil.  The ground wire from the coil is laying across those same two plates.  It is not a dead short between the lower ground wire from the coil and that output wire to the points (originally).  Meter shows .5 ohm resistance.

 

Next will be to check the valve clearance.  With two different numbers given (5 intake and 8 exhaust) and (8 intake and 10 exhaust) guess I will go with somewhere in between, seeing as how I have no idea what the manual means by B (5diget) and B (6digit).

 

Ign-1.JPG    Ign-2.JPG    Ign-3.JPG    Ign-4.JPG

 

Lost power when I was sending this so had to go back reload the photos.


Edited by chieffan, September 18, 2015 - 03:21 PM.


#22 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 10:33 AM

I have no knowledge of those add on ignitions ,   How does it set the timing ?  

Maybe like those coils with the built in electronics  that just fire  by the flywheel magnets timing  ?  Always something new for me to learn


Edited by Alc, September 18, 2015 - 10:37 AM.

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#23 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 11:26 AM

 

 

Next will be to check the valve clearance.  With two different numbers given (5 intake and 8 exhaust) and (8 intake and 10 exhaust) guess I will go with somewhere in between, seeing as how I have no idea what the manual means by B (5diget) and B (6digit).

If you look at this source for old manuals, there is no mention made of a BR6. They only list a BR. Then they list a type number of 5 digits. Perhaps a BR6 has a type number of 6 digits?

 

http://www.briggsand.../B-Domestic.pdf


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#24 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 11:34 AM

Just as a pick me up, I want to mention a Case I had with a Kohler K 301 I had. That thing would not run! I checked e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g!

More than once. . .  Finally, I took a multi-meter and checked every wire connection before and after. . . everywhere in the ignition circuit and I found a place where there was no continuity. I took that wire end and polished the tarnish off hooked it back up and . . .TA DA!!!  These tractors just like to mess with us. And they use little things to do it. I still feel like it's timing. You keep saying you have spark, but when do you have spark?


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#25 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 03:25 PM

If you look at this source for old manuals, there is no mention made of a BR6. They only list a BR. Then they list a type number of 5 digits. Perhaps a BR6 has a type number of 6 digits?

 

http://www.briggsand.../B-Domestic.pdf

That is a good possibility.  Best logical explanation I have heard yet.  I edited post #21 to include the photos that did not get sent with the post.



#26 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 03:50 PM

That clip on the horseshoe that holds the points in - does that have to make electric circuit? If so, you might clean that up.



#27 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 04:20 PM

While looking for info on the BR6, I found this article on how to remagnetize your flywheel. I thought someone might like it.  http://www.asecc.com...magnetizing.gif


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#28 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 04:49 PM

That clip on the horseshoe that holds the points in - does that have to make electric circuit? If so, you might clean that up.

 

No.  ...That clip only provides spring tension to hold the bakelite cover over the points.



#29 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Just as a pick me up, I want to mention a Case I had with a Kohler K 301 I had. That thing would not run! I checked e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g!

More than once. . .  Finally, I took a multi-meter and checked every wire connection before and after. . . everywhere in the ignition circuit and I found a place where there was no continuity. I took that wire end and polished the tarnish off hooked it back up and . . .TA DA!!!  These tractors just like to mess with us. And they use little things to do it. I still feel like it's timing. You keep saying you have spark, but when do you have spark?

How does one know when the timing is right on one of these.  There is no timing marks that I know of on the flywheel or any place else.  I guess it fires when it want to fire.

 

That clip on the horseshoe that holds the points in - does that have to make electric circuit? If so, you might clean that up.

NOT USING THE POINTS OR CONDENSER.  HAS AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE THAT ELIMINATES THE POINTS AND CONDENSER.  i JUST LEFT THE POINTS IN JUST IN CASE i HAD TO GO BACK TO THEM.


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#30 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2015 - 04:54 PM

While looking for info on the BR6, I found this article on how to remagnetize your flywheel. I thought someone might like it.  http://www.asecc.com...magnetizing.gif

WOW !  Lot of cutting and trying to find the material the right softness and size.  I'll box mine up and send it to Briggs and let them do it right.






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