Had big power broom and locked up and bad ground up gears, no oil in case. NOW, have my $400 worth of new parts to put in and have to figure out the procedure for putting it all back in. I'll note How I'm doing and a few pix as I go, watch here.
Brush parts and rebuild starting
Posted September 15, 2015 - 08:32 PM
- Talntedmrgreen, LilysDad and Auburn David have said thanks
Posted September 20, 2015 - 07:35 PM
Bigger races on shaft for brush I also pressed in. Went in slick, good to go. NOW, the bronze gear needs to go on the brush shaft. Having trouble. Shaft is 50" long, so hard to work with down in center when it comes to a press or such. I have driven it on so far. The big key didn't seem to want to fit in any way. I filed, and ground rounded end on it and tried many times. Finally got it to go in about 1/2 way. So now have a gear and a key halfway on shaft area. The darn keyway is tapered at both ends, so can't put that in after the gear, must all go in about same time. I quit for fear of wrecking my new gear for today. Think I'm gonna need a bigger press or something to push it on, so might have to look around at shops now. Here's some pix from the day.
Edited by glgrumpy, September 20, 2015 - 07:37 PM.
- Alc said thank you
Posted September 23, 2015 - 05:54 PM
Well, that is one tight gear. I took to a weld/fab shop I use all the time. His huge press was just short of fitting the long shaft into area. He thin took a pipe over shaft, set iron on floor to hit pipe on and just kinda let the shaft lay loose in pipe and dropped it down on the metal on floor, kinda like using a hammer I guess. It moved. A few times and was pretty good. Had to come back a hair to get the snap rings in grooves. NOW......after home with it, have same issue with the bearings there. Again, I have them started good, just need more pressure to push on. These move easier, think I'll get a pipe of right size to push on center part of bearing and either push on with pipe wood clamps or just drive on. I'll try push trick first. Not sure why this stuff is so close on tolerance? A snug push on by hand fit would have been much nicer. I even sanded the bearing surfaces before trying them and looked smooth as new, but not going on real easy. MAN, I hate frustrations like this for such a simple (you would think) repair. One thing good if I break the bearing, they are common ones from my local auto shop and not expensive. Getting them Off again might not be neat!
Posted September 23, 2015 - 07:31 PM
- KennyP said thank you
Posted September 23, 2015 - 07:37 PM
- LilysDad said thank you
Posted September 24, 2015 - 07:50 PM
Had little trouble figuring out the brushes way to go on, manual is very poor on that. Parts page says I should have two concave or I'll call flat brushes and I have four. All the others are bent wiggly to be wider, cover more area. Parts page says needed six spacers between brushes on each side. I have that number, yet when I put them all on the holder, seemed like I needed one more on outer ends before plate capped it off. That is were I put the 2 extra flat brushes instead. I have the two center brushes concave side in towards gear box, I figured so not to have a strip undone there. Seems there is a strip, not big, but some left when I use it. The outer ones used to hit the guide wheels and get them spinning around on the mount shafts before, so I also have that outer brush concave INside to prevent that. Seems good there. Here's some pix of the nights work. One shows it spinning.
Edited by glgrumpy, September 24, 2015 - 07:53 PM.
- Alc and MolonLabe have said thanks
Posted September 25, 2015 - 05:45 AM
The drive shaft noise is maybe from the angle the joints are in when lifted. Plus you have no 'drag' when it is off the ground, so any 'slop' will make noise. Looks great, GL!
- Alc said thank you
Posted September 25, 2015 - 09:17 PM
Just wanted to mention that special Oil I got for gearcase. It said Tiller Oil on the plain can. That stuff was mighty thick!! One of those kind you pour in funnel, it fills up, have to stop and WAIT for it to go down the hole into the case. It didn't smell like common rear-end oils at all, but didn't even spread out much when you dripped some on a surface. Golden color. Even when it came up to the level plug hole, it was a little taller than hole and just starting to run out onto threads before I plugged it up. Wasn't messy at all or anything. Wish I could have known more of what it was and a brand.
- Alc and KennyP have said thanks
Posted September 28, 2015 - 08:00 AM
Oh, you really do not need those plastics around the engine on that tractor, please box up and ship to me..... they have the wrong decals for you anyway
Posted September 28, 2015 - 03:04 PM
You don't want these panels, all cracked up and broken out pieces and some even just mounted with zip-ties. Yeah, wrong name, but looks right. Mission had new, about $400 per panel on sides and $500 on a hood, Gulp! I even have a parts one and those panels were gone, and hood fair. Just handling hood to move around garage and such I had pieces breaking off it where I was hanging on to it. Darn stuff breaks when "Looking at it" wrong! That plastic outfit is still laughing at PK for buying I bet. OR, hopefully the went under for bad parts?? I see now others have Areins tractors with same issues, might be same supplier?
Besides, still waiting for the price and time to come get that wreck of yours BEFORE you spend your money on it. Your wife will call it a "Money Pit" same as mine, but then it would be just HERE, not at your place and be silent once again!! Heee!
Posted September 30, 2015 - 08:29 AM
All mine are a money pit to her, even my free ones, just got to play her game.
If I keep mine, it will end up getting a custom built steel hood/grill/side panels. Go with a turbo smoker IH theme