Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Help!-Which Massey Ferguson do i have?

massey ferguson mf-10 mf-12 clutch fun

  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 CaseyRides OFFLINE  

CaseyRides
  • Member
  • Member No: 75128
  • 8 Thanks
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Piketberg

Posted September 10, 2015 - 03:17 PM

Hi

I recently bought a MF-12 from a friend, I have started by cleaning it up, taking of the engine etc- but would like to know, do I have a 10 or a 12, the hood says 12 but the chassis says 10, also I assume I lost a belt or two, and in the manual I downloaded I can not figure out the sizes or how the clutch belt works. Thanks, first time restorer- very keen to learn!

Regards
Casey

Any extra tips will be appreciated!!

Attached Thumbnails

  • WP_20150909_16_52_36_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20150910_18_10_47_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20150909_08_43_17_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20150903_17_55_28_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20150910_18_29_09_Pro.jpg

  • limebuzz, HANKG, propane1 and 1 other said thanks

#2 bhts OFFLINE  

bhts

    Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 945
  • 1,413 Thanks
  • 2,115 posts
  • Location: ohio

Posted September 10, 2015 - 04:18 PM

You have a MF10 with a 12 hood on it.

 

Welcome to the site.


  • Cvans, boyscout862, propane1 and 1 other said thanks

#3 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

TomLGT195
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 29432
  • 2,798 Thanks
  • 2,197 posts
  • Location: Southern New Hampshire

Posted September 10, 2015 - 05:26 PM

:welcometogttalk:  I'd have to agree with Bob here. The hoods are easily changed , most people don't change the ID plate. The engine should have a tag telling you what model/ size it is too. It might have been changed with a donor tractor, possible reason for the hood. I don't know much about Massey's but on other brands this is an easy swap. My Ford / Jacobsen used the same setup from 12hp up to 16hp. 10hp looked the same too just a different rear.

You didn't waste time tearing it down. Take plenty of pics and label everything you can. Good luck, Tom


Edited by TomLGT195, September 10, 2015 - 05:27 PM.

  • propane1 and CaseyRides have said thanks

#4 HANKG OFFLINE  

HANKG
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 29484
  • 4,877 Thanks
  • 2,791 posts
  • Location: Pt.Pleasant N.J.

Posted September 10, 2015 - 06:04 PM

Welcome aboard enjoy the site


  • CaseyRides said thank you

#5 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted September 10, 2015 - 06:18 PM

Hi and welcome.

 

You have a MF10 built in 1970 according to the serial #.

As fro the engine it is not original, it's an OHV Tecumseh cast iron block and is one of the following.

12hp,  14hp,  15hp,  16hp, or even a 18hp. Most likely a 14 or 16hp.


  • MH81, propane1 and CaseyRides have said thanks

#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,652 Thanks
  • 6,469 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted September 11, 2015 - 12:36 AM

Need to get/buy parts and owners manuals before going deeper. Special ways to remove variable pulley and the linkages inside that small tunnel area. Wrong pulls or wrench turns, things break. You Will need lots of penetrant. PB blaster is good brand. The drive pulleys are left-hand thread on center screw. Not sure belt question you have, but there are two separate drive belts. One from engine topulley, another from other side of pulley to rear-end pulley. That rear pulley has shims to adjust tension on it. Many times the variable pulley is rusted and center won't move. Needs to be free to work. Looks like someone has put One long belt on it, from engine to rear, kinda just laying it thru the variable pulley. Is non-functional that way. So, get yhe man's and study first. Was a website with fella rebuilding one with pix and tips. Not sure where, maybe others know. You-Tube??
  • MH81 and CaseyRides have said thanks

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,269 Thanks
  • 28,607 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted September 11, 2015 - 01:09 AM

Lots of potential there.
I agree that you're looking at a 10 with a transplant.
Because of the engine change, it will be hard to be 100 percent certain that the OEM belts will be the right length (especially the vari to engine belt)
This list shows the OEM belts and some potential cross ref belts.image.jpg
You will want to verify size as best you can before ordering.

BTW, the engine belt on there now isn't OEM because those are notched, this one isn't.


If you haven't downloaded the manuals, I advise you do so.
  • limebuzz, wvbuzzmaster and CaseyRides have said thanks

#8 CaseyRides OFFLINE  

CaseyRides
  • Member
  • Member No: 75128
  • 8 Thanks
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Piketberg

Posted September 13, 2015 - 12:26 PM

Lots of potential there.
I agree that you're looking at a 10 with a transplant.
Because of the engine change, it will be hard to be 100 percent certain that the OEM belts will be the right length (especially the vari to engine belt)
This list shows the OEM belts and some potential cross ref belts.attachicon.gifimage.jpg
You will want to verify size as best you can before ordering.

BTW, the engine belt on there now isn't OEM because those are notched, this one isn't.


If you haven't downloaded the manuals, I advise you do so.

 

I have downloaded the service Manual of this site, but that is not the most helpful at the moment as there are no general photos- for instance it could not show me how the clutch pedal fitted into the belts(I got it now though)- if you have any other manual you know for me to download I would appreciate it. Thanks for the help!



#9 CaseyRides OFFLINE  

CaseyRides
  • Member
  • Member No: 75128
  • 8 Thanks
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Piketberg

Posted September 13, 2015 - 12:31 PM

Also- how would you guys redo the paint job? I'm on a slight budget, and am currently thinking of steel brush and some elbow grease :wave: , high pressure washing/degreasing, good primer then my colour scheme which will be Massey Ferguson red and dove grey. Try keep it as original as possible.

 

Thanks- iv been highly impressed by this community already!!


Edited by CaseyRides, September 13, 2015 - 12:32 PM.

  • limebuzz said thank you

#10 petrj6 OFFLINE  

petrj6
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 53717
  • 3,808 Thanks
  • 2,219 posts
  • Location: petersbrgh ny

Posted September 13, 2015 - 01:10 PM

   If you want the paint to look good in the end than you will need to either sand or sandblast.  I recommend a disassemble and then sandblast before painting and assy, that can get really time consuming and expensive if you don't have a way to blast yourself.  some good sandpaper and elbow grease is just as good.  the first thing would be degreaser and a pressure washing, lots of pics :thumbs:

                                          Pete


  • CaseyRides said thank you

#11 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

TomLGT195
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 29432
  • 2,798 Thanks
  • 2,197 posts
  • Location: Southern New Hampshire

Posted September 13, 2015 - 02:26 PM

:ditto:  :yeah_that:


  • CaseyRides said thank you

#12 CaseyRides OFFLINE  

CaseyRides
  • Member
  • Member No: 75128
  • 8 Thanks
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Piketberg

Posted September 14, 2015 - 01:52 AM

Ok- so I seem to have figured that the break pedal is also the clutch pedal? What's the right foot pedal for then, the mower? im not going to attach the mower for some time. could I remove that until I install the mower?



#13 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,269 Thanks
  • 28,607 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted September 14, 2015 - 06:39 AM

You could remove it, but unless its in the road...?
The right pedal is for any powered attachments.
Snow blower
Mower
Etc
  • CaseyRides said thank you

#14 glgrumpy ONLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,652 Thanks
  • 6,469 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted September 14, 2015 - 12:59 PM

Hard to just remove the pedal there, I'ld leave it. It has that some complicated lock-forward issue with foot release. Takes a little learning to do that. If not blasting and tear-down, buy yourself an angle grinder with a 3" knot brush, or if air around, a die-grinder with little 1" knot brush and you can do a lot. Also those sand head discs for the angle grinder or the real small pads for on the die-grinder, kinda of scotch brite like stuff take a lot of paint or rust off fast. Can get those for a drill too, but not really the same, not fast enough. Auto Zones have those pads and holders, best to go to a body tool stoe or bigger auto stores that have body tools to get these. Tools also thru Harbor Freight for the die-grinders, and not their angle grinders, but go to a good farm store or hardware to get one of those. Many attachments for them. Cut-off discs, grinding discs, sanding discs and pads. Hand sanding gets old fast! I have used knot brushes for many things, just takes long time and is messy, dirty.  Note those are KNOT brushes, and not the standard wire brushes. Knot type hold up and last, remove stuff fast. Reg brush won't do that.


  • TomLGT195 and CaseyRides have said thanks

#15 CaseyRides OFFLINE  

CaseyRides
  • Member
  • Member No: 75128
  • 8 Thanks
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Piketberg

Posted November 16, 2015 - 10:32 AM

Hi guys- So update, next step is to start the motor to see it run, but I'm having trouble with the wiring. I have replaced the ones I could, and re-wired it as it was. but due to age, some wires had popped off, and I'm to afraid of incorrect wiring :mad2: . I have seen the pen drawn wire diagram. I do not understand it unfortunately. so please give me some rookie help :D , I do not have a key switch, and would rather just use a push button starter if possible.

Thanks

Attached Thumbnails

  • MF-10 Left.jpg
  • MF-10 stripping.jpg
  • MF-10.jpg
  • WP_20151013_07_46_26_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20151116_15_09_30_Pro.jpg
  • WP_20151116_15_09_36_Pro.jpg






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: massey ferguson, mf-10, mf-12, clutch, fun

Top