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I'm stupid, stupid, stupid.


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#16 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 11:28 AM

welcome to the Forum!

 

On a positive note, the tractor itself is not ruined, just the motor if it lets go or needs rebuilt.

 

I think we've all been there, get in a hurry, hop on it and run it. I have a 1970 AC HB212 that's been sitting in the barn since 1990 when the motor got blown up running on a hill with no oil cause we didn't check it.

I have to check my Sears regularly, I can see it smoke sometimes under load, I know it burns it now and then.


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#17 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 12:01 PM

I checked the oil in my New Holland S-14 (Kohler k321) when I got it before running it and it was black, but full. Two weekends later after having been joy riding it i checked the oil (warm) and it was milky brown! I changed that oil within 20 minutes of seeing that and it was midnight at that point in the day. I got just as lucky as you did and i plan to change that oil again soon. Trust me these things happen.

Another one is my Farmall 140 i had been joy riding had pure water in the transmission when i checked it last fall fir the first time having had it a mere 4 months. Ya i felt stupid too, but my transmission growling went away lol.
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#18 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 02:18 PM

:welcometogttalk: & :wewantpics: please  

:smilewink:  :smilewink:



#19 backyardtinker OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 07:35 PM

Not stupid, just human. We've all done "stupid" stuff before, ( or at least I have...) but hey we live and learn. Sounds like all the  other posts pretty much nailed it so not too much to add except welcome aboard! And, you may want to keep your eyes peeled for a replacement motor. If one comes up cheap, it might be worth getting it as a back up. You may not need it for a while yet but at least you will be prepared should it fail at the least opportune time.


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#20 freedhardwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 08:09 PM

I am finally done for the day.

 

Dumb Mistakes

 

I have a '78 Chevy pickup that I bought new in '78. Valve cover gaskets were always a problem on the engine. I should still be on the original engine, but I have let it run out of oil twice. The first time it spun a main bearing. I overhauled it myself and had to get a new crank because the original was chewed too much to turn down.

 

The second time Autozone had just started selling complete engines and had them on sale. I got an engine with the pan full of oil, intake manifold and valve covers installed for $1000. The only thing it didn't include was the carb.

 

I have fried an automatic tranny that was leaking and locked up an air compressor (Lucas story below), all because I didn't check the oil often enough. I guess I'm a slow learner, but I haven't fried anything for a long time. :D

 

Lucas Stories

 

I had a truck that broke a wrist pin at 999,600 (one million) miles. It made an awful racket, but by some miracle, it didn't touch the cylinder wall. I was using 10 gallons of Shell Rotella with 2 gallons of Lucas Oil Additive every oil change. When they tore the engine down, you could still see hone marks on every cylinder, and there was virtually no lip at the top.

 

I parked for the night at a factory on a Monday night a few years ago. The next morning, I found a puddle of oil on the ground where a trailer wheel seal let all the oil leak out overnight. I cleaned the drum, wheel, and tire with ether and drove to a truck stop a few miles away.

 

I bought a quart of Lucas Hub Oil and filled the hub. I drove another 2500 miles that week before I got home, and the seal did not even seep the whole time. I changed the seal when I got home and filled every hub with Lucas.

 

When the air compressor locked up, I pulled the head bolts and slid the block up as far as I could while keeping the pistons inside. It had aluminum rods on a steel crank and no bearings. I used a propane torch to heat and expand the rods enough so I could turn the crank.

 

I started by spraying WD-40 while turning the crank by hand. After a few minutes, I started using transmission fluid while turning it. After a few more minutes I switched to 50 wt motor oil and kept turning. Next I used a whole can of ether while turning to clean it thoroughly.

 

Then I poured Lucas Hub Oil on it and turned some more. Then I put it back together and filled it with more Lucas. That compressor has been running for 8 years that way and does not leak.

 

I use Lucas products in and on everything I own. :thumbs:


Edited by freedhardwoods, September 09, 2015 - 09:02 PM.

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#21 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 08:17 PM

I have a yard king/Murray that it over heated and seized. Some how I got it to restart before the thermal heat got to it and cooked it. I let it run to cool off. I changed the oil and it's still running good. That was twenty years ago. It a 1993 model I bought new. Still works great, does not use oil and easy on gas. Engine was never apart for repairs. Noel.

#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 09:22 PM

I lost a good Dodge 318 engine to Slick Sh*tty years ago and won't use it again. Only put it in because I was told I should.
I am hesitant to use much like that, but have seen decent results from rislone, MMO, and Lucas.

#23 Buck Tales OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 09:31 PM

Welcome to the forum! I don't know what these guys are talking about, I would never do anything like that myself.......... :wallbanging: .........OR at least admit it. LOL! We are all human and make mistakes and I've lunched a motor myself a long time ago. It's life. Some good stuff on this thread though and the Lucas stuff is right on the money, that stuff is great. Wouldn't hurt if you found a spare motor in your travels to rebuild it from the bottom up to have as a spare just in case the one you got desides to got south shortly. And even if it runs for years to come, that just means you got longer to rebuild the spare. :)



#24 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2015 - 07:12 AM

I bought my 98 Firebird in 2004, got it for a killer price, I thought. After 3-4 weeks of driving I figured I should change the oil, never know about previous owners, especially with the condition of the car. Changed oil, As soon as I started it up, it started hammering, guess I got scammed, must've had gear oil in it to keep it quite.

I also found a quarter bag scale in between the back seats, guess I know the profession of the previous owners.


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#25 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2015 - 07:48 AM

My neighbor (and good friend) had a International W4 tractor and he was going to change the oil. He drained it out and realized he had the wrong oil, so he thought he'd finish it the next day after he goes to town to get the oil.  He left the oil drain pan under it as a reminder that the oil has been drained out. Well, his neighbor got his pickup stuck in the field across the road, so he walked over and asked if he could pull him out with his old IH W4. He said sure, went over and fired it up, back out a few feet then saw the oil pan and realized the tractor has no oil in it and quickly shut it off. The tractor was OK, it only ran for 20 seconds or so, but it was a close call.

 

Hope your 318 is alright, and :welcometogttalk:   and    :wewantpics:    :poke:    :D


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#26 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2015 - 05:58 PM

:camera:  :tapping_fingers:                   :poke:          :smilewink:  :smilewink:



#27 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2015 - 07:33 AM

Amazing what some of these engines can continue to run through!

I do repair work on the side for a friend's lawn care business. I just ordered him a new ($$$) big Kawasaki twin because they broke a rod in one of the zero turn mowers.

"Doesn't remember if he checked it" that morning, and the oil left in it was dirty, but not due for change yet (they go by hours use). Add a hot day, wet grass, and a rod let go.

Funny thing was the engine still ran! He brought it to me because it "was vibrating something fierce" and a little down on power above 1/2 throttle. But it idled fine! He drove it off the trailer and into my shop under its own power.

I started working on it and found one cylinder not running, then that the piston in that cylinder was not moving, so tear down time!
Here's a few pictures of the carnage;
20150908_153123.jpg 20150908_153129.jpg 20150908_165508.jpg 20150908_153149.jpg

That last picture is a couple of the LARGER pieces of the rod that broke! Once the new motor is in and the machine back in service, I'll see if this one is worth rebuilding as a spare. But it ran up to 10 minutes or so after the rod let go!

#28 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2015 - 08:01 AM


That last picture is a couple of the LARGER pieces of the rod that broke! Once the new motor is in and the machine back in service, I'll see if this one is worth rebuilding as a spare. But it ran up to 10 minutes or so after the rod let go!

 

Was at local county fair tractor pull, guy had a super stock 70 2wd Chevy truck. About half track, front end about 2 feet off the ground we heard the loud bang and saw something blow out bottom, he kept his foot in it. After making an almost full pull, one of the officials dug a piston/rod out of the dirt on the track. Amazing how some motors can run even broken.

Favorite quote from NASCAR announcers...."they run the best right before they blow"


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