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I may have explianed my control valve issue wrong. I'm wording it different this time.


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#1 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 09:27 AM

If you read my other post I think I explained it wrong.  As I stated before my tractor will not move until the lever gets 3/4 to full in both forward and reverse.  Most people probably thought of slop in the linkage causing this.  It would have but here's what I didn't explain good enought to you guys.  When I get to the 3/4 mark on the dash it takes off at 3/4 speed also.  It does not start out in slow.  The shaft in the valve body is going through it's full motion like it should but it seems like a low speed passage is plugged or something.  Does this make more sense? 



#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 10:17 AM

Does it make any difference as to what rpm the engine is running at as to when the travel motor kicks in?

#3 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 12:32 PM

I am new to the Case tractors although I have two waiting their turn to get in the shop.  I did change all the fluids in one of them.  Once all the fluid is drained from the Hi drive system you have to refill the reservoir to a level about 6 inches down from the filler cap. Take a dowel  stick it down through the fill hole and mark where the top  of the fill hole is.  Then measure down 6 inches from that mark and put a small notch in the dowel to indicate the fill to line. After you have refilled it to the mark, run the tractor and then check the level again. your new oil has to fill all the lines, the radiator, the valves and the motor. so its possible the level could have dropped quite a bit after the initial filling.  If that doesn't help check back in the spring after I have run one of mine through the shop, and I may learn something.


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#4 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 07:44 PM

Does it make any difference as to what rpm the engine is running at as to when the travel motor kicks in?

No it doesn't make a difference.



#5 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 09:24 PM

My thought is when you disconnected hoses something broke lose no matter how careful we do things some time s;;; happens. you said it ran fine for a while.I think it took that long to work its way past the travel spool to the holding valve. Unlike the travel spool mechanically operated the holding spool operated by pressure and lack of pressure. I'd pull the holding spool see if ports blocked.  


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#6 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 06:13 PM

OK I pulled the control valve out of the tractor. I took the cap off the forward/reverse shaft and then slid out the shaft. Shaft looks clean with but the end that goes in the cap is cruddy. What do the ball and springs actually do? Are they the centering for the lever control up top? What should I look at / take apart next?

33xhefl.jpg

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and the holding valve spool assembly

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#7 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 08:02 PM

I'd say keep the spools separate and clean in a container with kerosene watch what comes out. They have to be super clean like Brian said check for any nicks or scratches particularly on holding valve. If I was thinking right should have told you to clean TCV be for taking apart then you could have taken the rest of it apart including the relieve valves and lift spool that way you could wash the housing in a clean bucket of kerosene and see what kind of particulates come out of nooks and crannies of the ports.One more thing if no one said be real careful with the spools don't scratch or ding them. When putting back together I smear good old Vaseline on the spools for lubrication. It's a petroleum product should not hurt any in the system. Keep all different components separate lift and travel relieve valves balls different sizes.


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#8 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 08:24 PM

Should I just take this all the way apart and get it hot tanked?  I also have a gallon can of carb dip?  Are the allen head plugs(one is a drain plug) in the control valve used for machining purposes or are they something I should take out when trying to clean the ports out?  I guess I'm at the point of figuring out how to completely clean all the passages, order a new seal kit, and install it back in the tractor to see if it work s any better. 



#9 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2015 - 09:17 PM

I would use clean buckets and kerosene and air hose. I'd keep away from any water-base or caustics. As for the plugs take them out the more opening into the ports the better. Don't lose the pressure relieve seats. My money is still on something came lose in tear down. But when you get it all cleaned up hold it up to a bright drop light look through the spool holes to see if there is any cracks. Be gentle with the spool walls in side you don't want any dings or scratches in there either.


Edited by gopher, September 09, 2015 - 09:18 PM.

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#10 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2015 - 02:59 PM

Well I cleaned everything up, ran pipe cleaner through the ports, flushed, flushed and flushed some more blew air through all the ports, changed the seals and put it back together.  Fired up the tractor and it still does the same thing.  Not sure what to do now.  Might just buy another tractor with a blown engine and use it for parts and start swapping hydrolics.






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