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Plow blade modified to fit snowblower mount (early design)


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#1 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 06:31 PM

Ever since I installed my early design snowblower, I have been unable to mount the plow unless the main frame bracket is removed. Now this is a pain, and after modifying the front hanger for my my mower deck to allow the snowblower bracket to remain while the mower deck is on, I have been scheming about the plow blade.

Now I happen to have a spare snowblower mount which goes between the blower and the mount bracket. This has been the inspiration to this modification. This will be unique to my set up partly because I am running a modified Craftsman blade to start with. However, this can be adapted to work with many blade designs and even full custom fabrication of a mount between the blower frame mount and a plow blade.

Tonight I brought up my spare 42" blade which shares the exact design and interchanges with my 48" Craftsman blade. I am planning to use the 42" blade to keep the stress down. I am also planning to design some push arms that mount between the frame and the bottom of the snowblower bracket. I do not know yet where these will go, or if I can even do it with the axle clearance. More on that later. I may also work in beefing up the frame bracket. Where it mounts near the grille.

To get started, a few photos!
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#2 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 06:38 PM

It appears my main hurdle is the lift arm is in the way of where the adjustment notches are. However, I am sure I can work around this.  I may even be required to move the point that the arm mounts do get the best lift out of the plow blade.  I am not worried about float for upwards movement as the lift rod is two halves and slides to allow it to be pushed up, however, I need to maximize upwards travel and some sort of drop for the blade too.   But for the most part, it looks really good!

This will be a little more light duty than the rear mounted plow but I am going to try, and you all get to watch and see if it works!

I have attached a photo of the mower deck mounted up with the blower frame mount in place. To do this all that was needed was to cut off the plate between the arms and move it behind the mount, and flip it upside down.

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Edited by FirefyterEmt, September 04, 2015 - 06:05 AM.

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#3 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 06:00 PM

Hmmm.... I brought my tractor home and tossed the blade on tonight. I had to remove the front mower deck hanger, but in the final build, I may be able to run it with the mower deck still attached. I would need to see if the snowblower push arm clears the deck when installed. If not, it would need to be removed. I have a small plow fir my rototiller, so if summer work had to be done, I could use that.

I was surprised that the blade mount gives the blade set up the appearance that the blade is very high at the mount! I was sure it would be pointing uphill because the frame bracket is so low.

Now that I have an idea how it will sit, it's time to try to midify what I have into a new mount. Once that is done, I can see where it sits and if the lift arm mount needs to be repositioned.

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Edited by FirefyterEmt, September 08, 2015 - 06:03 PM.

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#4 limebuzz ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 07:24 PM

Looks good so far. Hope it turns out the way you want it. 



#5 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2015 - 10:03 PM

So after playing around a bit, I decided to cut the welds on the snowblower bracket. This allowed me to flip the brackets inward and better fit my snowplow mount. I was then able to move my plow bracket forward and use the front holes in the bracket to run a rod through the plow mount. This will be welded in before the bracket is capped and make it much stronger.

I need to pick up some 1/4" strap to brace it up, and tack weld the set up. The other nice thing is by cutting the welds on the frame, now I can pivot and place the mount where the length works the best for me to lift the plow.

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#6 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2015 - 05:28 PM

Ok, I know it's been a while... but let's be honest, no snow yet!!

So today I attacked my mount bracket with the mig-welder and grinder. First I had to drop the mower and mock up the mount with the blade and lift rod attached. This was needed to make sure that I rewelded the rod for the lift arm in the best rotation for lift and drop. I want the lift arm to be exactly the same for the plow and snowblower.

With the blade on flat ground, I set the handle in the middle position and tack welded it in place. This gave me a nice lift height and plenty of drop to keep the blade on the ground as I pull out of my garage. (My driveway has a pretty good slope right out the garage door, so this is important)

Using the stock lift, and stock snow blower lift arm, works great and has a perfect "weight" without using a helper spring.  The only one thing that I am unhappy with is that there is no "twist" in the mount bracket. Because the bracket does not twist, it will not sit flat when angled. I may be able to elongate  the mount at the snowblower frame, but that gives me less than a 1/4" before it will pop out of the mount. My other thought would be to use a "floating" cutting edge. Allowing it to float with a center pivot and 1" travel on each side.  However, I think that it would pack with snow and not work right. I could weld up the slots that lock the angle tab and recut the slots with less travel. That would limit how far it can angle to help it out how much the blade needs to twist. I did manage to get it flat with maybe 50% less pivot, but If anyone has an idea, toss it in here! I know that a lot of tractors use a mount pivoted off the front of the frame like this, but I am not sure how they deal with the float when the blade is pivoted left or right.

I will also drill some holes in the snowblower frame mount at the lower rear corner and then add braces up to the mower hanger brackets. That will help with stress from the plow, yet be removable when the blade or blower is off.

 

The other modification will be to add a "U" shaped end to the lift rod.  This will allow a pin mount to the bracket, allowing me to easily switch between the plow and snowblower.  Three pins, and the plow slips right off the tractor, and the blower goes right back on.

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Edited by FirefyterEmt, November 01, 2015 - 07:47 PM.

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#7 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2015 - 06:48 PM

Hmmm... Tough crowd! Guess nobody likes photos anymore.

#8 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2015 - 07:25 PM

Well it looks good, lots of work and thought has gone into it. Be interesting to see how it holds up, you got 1000lbs + behind pushing that.

One thing that might work ??? to get the frame more level to the ground so the corners don't raise up when you angle the blade would be to put a tall, 4" or more wear bare on the bottom of the blade. That way the blade doesn't go down as far and the frame (horizontal) stays more level to the ground, if you get what I mean.


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#9 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2015 - 08:36 PM

Hmmm, so to level out the plow frame may help flatten the blade? I might play around with that to see if it helps. The cutting edge with a strip of stall mat will get the bottom edge even closer.

Good tip, that may help a lot! Oh... and weighted down, I think she's porked up to close to 1250!

Edited by FirefyterEmt, November 02, 2015 - 08:41 PM.

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#10 MFDAC ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2015 - 10:24 PM

That's a great looking 12G and fabrication work! Thanks for the detailed build and pics.

 

DAC


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#11 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 06:19 AM

Looks real good. I just picked a blade for a Gravely that is real similar where the blade mounts to the frame work. Was thinking on how I could mount it on my 718H Modified AC. Might use something similar to what you have.



#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 07:00 AM

Leveling out the mount is about your only option. Lots of geometry, blood sweat and tears have gone into it so far tho... Hate to suggest a rebuild or even a tweak.

Some of the sears blades have this issue too. I've looked at them and decided to leave well enough alone. One thing would beget another, and another, and another... I works OK and like you've noticed, less angle is less problem.
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#13 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 09:23 AM

Looking real good.

 

I also had the angling issue when I built my blade for my Sears. I ended up having to cut and weld the main plow mount to get the blade level.



#14 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 12:05 PM

It may not be too bad... I can cut the arms right after the angle iron and level the frame in front of the it. Add some bracing and it should be perfect. The main problem would be that I would probably need to cut the welds for the rod that the lift arm mounts to as it will probably require re-clocking to correct the lift and drop.

Good ideas, I appreciate it!
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#15 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2015 - 06:24 PM

I took a side photo, and it has a good bit of down slope to the mount frame. I will play around with cutting and bracing the mount to flatten it out.

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