Montgomery Wards Hydrostatic 16
Posted April 10, 2011 - 11:28 AM
It's cool but I have spent way more time wrenching than I have spent mowing. My goal is to keep working on it until it is reliable. My hope is that I get to that point befor I run out of money and or patience.
First it was a hydraulic line that had failed and been "repaired" with a hose clamp. It would come off and spew fluid all over the deck. Which would kill the hydrostatic drive. Replaced the line with a new on from grainger. That took two tries. The first line I bought was the same length as the old one but the fittings were twice as long as the old ones which effectively shortened it. Got the next size up, 18" to 24" That fixed it. I refilled the fluids and drove it around for a bit. It worked great. Put the deck back on and started mowing. About ten minutes later it threw the deck drive belt. I put it back on, it stayed on for about a minute. The second time is when I noticed that the set screw had come loose on the main deck pully. That had chewed up the sheet metal on the deck.
So I dropped the deck again. Took it apart and discovered that the shaft was pretty jacked up. Time for some back ground. The deck has three blades. The center blade has dual pullies. One connects all three blades with a belt. This belt and pullies are under a sheet metal cover. The second pully on the center blade is above the cover and is connected to the motor at the front of the tractor. The shaft on the center blade had a nut on the end and keyway with a set screw. Well there was no nut on the end and the threads had been worn down to the point where they were mere grooves. The end of it had obviously broken off at some point. So the set screw on the keyway was all that was holding it together.
They guy I bought it from said he had lubed the deck just befor I bought it. I guess he didn't get it tight enough. That and the fact that the keyway set screw is meant to keep the pully from spinning on the shaft. It isn't meant to hold the pully on the shaft, the nut on the end is supposed to do that.
So I need to replace that shaft or improvise something. If I could find one I would probably buy it. Failing that I might see what kind of threads I could cut into whats left of the shaft I have.
To end on a more upbeat note, the motor runs strong and starts right up every time. Once I replaced the bad hose and got the fluids full the deck lift and drive have both worked fine. It will really get up and go at full throtle. Vroom.:laughingteeth:
What I really want and need are any manuals I can find and a source for parts.
Posted April 10, 2011 - 06:34 PM
As for the center pulley on the mower deck, if it is a keyed shaft and has the key in it to keep the pulley from spinning on the shaft the set screw should be enough to keep it from moving up and down on shaft and from coming off of the shaft. Is there possibly two locations for set screws on the pulley? You could use a transfer punch to mark the position of the set screw on the shaft so you can use a drill bit to put a dimple recess for the set screw to sit in. Also use loctite on the set screw when you reassemble it.
Posted April 10, 2011 - 07:38 PM
- MH81 said thank you
Posted April 11, 2011 - 10:50 AM
Here is a pictures of my Hydro 16...
Posted April 11, 2011 - 08:47 PM
There is a second hole on the pully but I don't think it has threads. A second screw would help center the pully on the damaged shaft. The set screw held it together until it came loose. But that doesn't make it ideal. I would still like to replace the spindle with a new one. But I think I will end up cutting the broken end off and retaping it. I think the nut is meant to seat the bearing. Tightening the nut pulls everything together.
Posted April 11, 2011 - 08:50 PM
Posted April 25, 2011 - 09:16 PM
The mower deck on the other hand still needs work. I tore it down and got a good look at it. The threads are gone. I no longer think it was broken off. There may be a 1/8 inch hole down the center, That or just a deep dimple. It is slightly bent and there is some wear where the upper bearing goes. So I would really like to replace it.
To that end I need a specific identification of the tractor.
As noted I think it is an early 70's Gilson made Mongomery Ward Hydrostatic 16 with a 42 inch deck. The only number I could find on it was on the side of the Briggs and Straton motor. It was very hard to read and half on half off of what looks like an original sticker that can no longer be read. 326-4- 3403 017209291 I put the fourth digit between dashes because it was very hard to read and may or may not have been a 4.
So does anyone know what it means? Is it like a vin? A link to the info would work for me. Thanks in advance for what ever info you can pass along.
Posted April 26, 2011 - 12:12 AM
- Texas Deere and Horse said thank you
Posted April 26, 2011 - 02:55 AM
Here's a list of all Gilson model numbers for the 16hp Single cylinder Briggs powered machines.
53019 B&S 326437 16hp
53020 B&S 326437 16hp
53021 B&S 326437 16hp
53022 B&S 326437 16hp
53024 B&S 326437 16hp
53025 B&S 326437 16hp
53026 B&S 326437 16hp
53027 B&S 326437 16hp
53028 B&S 326437 16hp
53030 B&S 326437 16hp
53031 B&S 326437 16hp
53032 B&S 326437 16hp
Edited by EricFromPa, April 26, 2011 - 03:10 AM.
- Texas Deere and Horse said thank you
Posted April 26, 2011 - 03:08 PM
Hope this helps, I tried scanning them in but but scanner is junk I will go to Kinkos tomorrow and scann all my manuals I have
- MH81 and Texas Deere and Horse have said thanks
Posted April 26, 2011 - 03:18 PM
Posted April 26, 2011 - 05:10 PM
Eric from PA posted this manual as well.
Posted April 26, 2011 - 08:57 PM
My deck is like the second picture in RustyTub's 3:08 PM post. There is a slight difference, the rod that the hanger assembly pivots on is the length of the deck on mine. The deck wheels are attached to it so that you can adjust the cut height with a bolt and spring mechanism near the middle of the deck.
So it is a 72 through 75.
- Bolens800uk said thank you
Posted April 26, 2011 - 11:55 PM