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Need help with control valve problem....

case ingersoll 3012

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#1 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 01:50 PM

Hello everyone!

I bought a 3012 Ingersoll with a bad rod and fixed that. Tractor runs awesome. When I was putting around with it to break it in I noticed how smooth the Hydriv worked compared to my other Cases. It didn't jump, it was real smooth. Fast forward a couple weeks later when I was driving it again the tractor wouldn't move until the lever to go forward and reverse was at about 3/4 of the way. It does this in forward and reverse. I checked the linkages on the control valve and they have very little slop, maybe less than 1/8 inch. When I pulled the engine before the rebuild I drained the hydriv oil by pulling off the big rubber hose down by the pump. I zip tied bags around the open hose and fitting it goes on to so nothing could get in there. After the engine was in I put Shell Rotella T 15w40 in the Hydriv reservoir about 5-6 inches down from the top and rechecked it after filling the lines. What do you guys think the problem may be? Here's a picture of where he tractor starts to move in both directions. I can get more picture and video of stuff if you need it.
Thanks,
Don

2lw7pfs.jpg

dhenh4.jpg



#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 02:06 PM

:welcometogttalk:



#3 backyardtinker OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 04:39 PM

does it sound normal or does it make any noise like fluid cavitation?



#4 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 04:51 PM

Looks identical  likely linkage. You need helper no need to be running you under and helper push down on control to remove detente friction and turn real slow. When you see the spool start to move you tell helper then look see how far control handle moved. A 1/8 inch is a lot of slop when it comes to these tractors. 



#5 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 05:35 PM

does it sound normal or does it make any noise like fluid cavitation?

Sounds normal and the engine does not labor at all.



#6 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 05:36 PM

Looks identical  likely linkage. You need helper no need to be running you under and helper push down on control to remove detente friction and turn real slow. When you see the spool start to move you tell helper then look see how far control handle moved. A 1/8 inch is a lot of slop when it comes to these tractors. 

Crawling back under the tractor as soon as I get done typing this.  If I don't respond back in 24hrs come look for me! lol


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#7 backyardtinker OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 06:36 PM

Looks identical  likely linkage. You need helper no need to be running you under and helper push down on control to remove detente friction and turn real slow. When you see the spool start to move you tell helper then look see how far control handle moved. A 1/8 inch is a lot of slop when it comes to these tractors. 

I second this advice. Very small amounts of slop can make a huge difference



#8 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2015 - 07:41 PM

Looks identical  likely linkage. You need helper no need to be running you under and helper push down on control to remove detente friction and turn real slow. When you see the spool start to move you tell helper then look see how far control handle moved. A 1/8 inch is a lot of slop when it comes to these tractors. 

So I went under and made adjustments.  The only thing it did was change where my neutral was.  I'm still confused as to why the slop in the linkage would effect me not having any tractor movement from neutral to the 3/4 mark.  I have 3/4 to full tractor movement only.  You would think if there was slop it would effect the top speed because the slop would not allow the shaft to be pulled out far enough.  The shaft has full motion like it should just no tractor movement from Neutral to 3/4.  To me it seems like something is not right in the valve body?



#9 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 03:40 PM

I was wondering if you figured it out yet. I think along with Brian to a point not crack or chipped spool defiantly a pressure issue holding valve got my vote. If add on easy check take off and bypass. As far as the slop the adjustment is for centering neutral. If in ball-joint change out.     



#10 Michigan446 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2015 - 03:57 PM

I was wondering if you figured it out yet. I think along with Brian to a point not crack or chipped spool defiantly a pressure issue holding valve got my vote. If add on easy check take off and bypass. As far as the slop the adjustment is for centering neutral. If in ball-joint change out.     

The holding valve is part of the whole unit.



#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2015 - 12:55 PM

I know nothing of these but Can you take the hydraulic spool and holding valve and run air backwards thru them without damaging?




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